This is what I basically did on my 106 but I thought it be useful to have a precise list of what parts are needed in general for a conversion, altho some stuff may not be needed it all depends on your budgetary constraints.
This is only a very rough guide on parts, what basic work needs to be done etc. First of all you will need to decide on what kind of power you want, what budget you have and what you can make yourself.
Basic parts list (cheap / mild low boost)
Adapter for the standard manifold to the turbo
downpipe from the turbo
oil feed line
oil return line
boss welded into the sump for the return
Boost pipes
Intercooler
silicone hoses of various bends
silicone vac hose for dump valve and boost gauges
boost gauge
dump valve
2.5bar map sensor
4 bigger injectors (use dastek and map sensor module to run this option)
MF2 and sigcon (runs extra one or two injectors along side the oe 4 if not going for dastek option)
The above is the basic "safe" list of what you want, obviously you will need to lower compression this can be done by either getting the thickest repair headgasket you can get or get a decompression plate. Budget around 2.5k for the above IF you can do ALOT of the work yourself, if not at least double it if going to a well established company.
Slightly more expensive
standalone ecu (dta, omex, emerald, mbe, motec, gems, megasquirt)
wideband lambda
tubular turbo exhaust manifold
forged pistons.
Obviously with the above it is a more precise way of doing what the dastek and other cheap options do. Forged pistons is just a better safety net for running higher boost.
If you make your own adapter for the turbo make sure the turbo is sitting straight and not at an angle like alot of so called setups on ebay, having the turbo at an angle means the oil cant drain back out and will kill the turbo unit in a matter of time and will blow blue smoke on idle.
Regardless of what setup you go for you need to consider who is going to be setting up the management whether it is a mf2 or motec, you need to find out what your local mappers prefer as this will save time on mapping for them if they are familiar with the system.
Sidenote: If you dont understand alot of this or can not do the work yourself then do not even attempt it, even for the good car DIY enthusiast the work needed to be done to get the setup to a good standard aint exactly easy. Your best bet would be to get your cheque book out and take it to someone to build up for you.
There is an even cheaper option using less parts, but that is really if you are on a stupidly tight budget and just want to get your foot in the door, I will add that list if wanted.
I take no responsibility if your car goes tits up, this guide is only to be used as that to give you a basic idea of what parts are needed and what kinda work is involved. MODs up to you whether this becomes a sticky or gets added to a different section.
This is only a very rough guide on parts, what basic work needs to be done etc. First of all you will need to decide on what kind of power you want, what budget you have and what you can make yourself.
Basic parts list (cheap / mild low boost)
Adapter for the standard manifold to the turbo
downpipe from the turbo
oil feed line
oil return line
boss welded into the sump for the return
Boost pipes
Intercooler
silicone hoses of various bends
silicone vac hose for dump valve and boost gauges
boost gauge
dump valve
2.5bar map sensor
4 bigger injectors (use dastek and map sensor module to run this option)
MF2 and sigcon (runs extra one or two injectors along side the oe 4 if not going for dastek option)
The above is the basic "safe" list of what you want, obviously you will need to lower compression this can be done by either getting the thickest repair headgasket you can get or get a decompression plate. Budget around 2.5k for the above IF you can do ALOT of the work yourself, if not at least double it if going to a well established company.
Slightly more expensive
standalone ecu (dta, omex, emerald, mbe, motec, gems, megasquirt)
wideband lambda
tubular turbo exhaust manifold
forged pistons.
Obviously with the above it is a more precise way of doing what the dastek and other cheap options do. Forged pistons is just a better safety net for running higher boost.
If you make your own adapter for the turbo make sure the turbo is sitting straight and not at an angle like alot of so called setups on ebay, having the turbo at an angle means the oil cant drain back out and will kill the turbo unit in a matter of time and will blow blue smoke on idle.
Regardless of what setup you go for you need to consider who is going to be setting up the management whether it is a mf2 or motec, you need to find out what your local mappers prefer as this will save time on mapping for them if they are familiar with the system.
Sidenote: If you dont understand alot of this or can not do the work yourself then do not even attempt it, even for the good car DIY enthusiast the work needed to be done to get the setup to a good standard aint exactly easy. Your best bet would be to get your cheque book out and take it to someone to build up for you.
There is an even cheaper option using less parts, but that is really if you are on a stupidly tight budget and just want to get your foot in the door, I will add that list if wanted.
I take no responsibility if your car goes tits up, this guide is only to be used as that to give you a basic idea of what parts are needed and what kinda work is involved. MODs up to you whether this becomes a sticky or gets added to a different section.
