Technical How to remove fuel injectors 1.9 TDI

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Technical How to remove fuel injectors 1.9 TDI

The engine code 280.A1.000
I tried to switch injectors 2 and 3 and the problem oil on the injector moved with the injector.

I then cleaned the injectors according to this guide:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/299321-diesel-injector-cleaning-diy.html

Unfortunately I dont have an injector tester at home

I installed the injectors again but unfortuinelately the original problem not solved. Still rough idle, noise as a cylinder missing
I have checked the engine number, but none of my books go back that far, the oldest book I have is a basic Auto Data Diesel volume 2, but it appears volume 1 which I don't have gives some data on those engines, which according to wikipedia was also used in Peugeot J5s around the same age.
The injector cleaning guide web page you gave does seem quite helpful if you followed it completely.
A pity you don't have access to an injector tester, you don't have an old tractor workshop or older commercial workshop or similar nearby as they often use them to overhaul injectors themselves. If you could see it giving a good spray pattern at the correct pressure, it could be eliminated as a a cause of your problem.
Where you say "I tried to switch injectors 2 and 3 and the problem oil on the injector moved with the injector." that would seem to indicate a dodgy injector.
When the engine is idling and noisy/rough does anything change as you open and close each injector union in turn?
If the fault still remains on one cylinder even after moving injectors along to a different cylinder, I would try and get a compression test and ideally a leak test also to confirm whether engine rebuild is required before further strip down.
Also when engine noisy at idle can you use something to act like a stethoscope to locate area of noise. Sometimes if careful a long screwdriver can do it.
Just a small point but are you sure when engine running, that both ends of each injector high pressure pipe is tightened correctly.
I expect you have checked the cam belt timing by now but the little circles and arrows on cam and injector pump pulleys are the correct original marks when lined up, I can't remember for sure but you may need to remove the four allen bolts and crankshaft pulley to see the timing marks on the bottom pulley, it was a long time ago I last saw some like those.:)
 
When the engine is idling and noisy/rough does anything change as you open and close each injector union in turn?
If the fault still remains on one cylinder even after moving injectors along to a different cylinder, I would try and get a compression test and ideally a leak test also to confirm whether engine rebuild is required before further strip down.


When closing injector 2 and 3 (separately, not at the same time) the engine more rough but still run, when closing 1 and 4 no big difference
 

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You may recall around July I made a joke about "noise (piston/broke?, story of my life);) as in pissed/drunk and no money or as in engine piston damage /broken.
Maybe I was not far off without even hearing the engine then. Sorry:(
 
Yes maybe my next project is taking the engine out.
Tomorrow I will remove oil pan and try to inspect mainbearings. Maybe even will find metalpieces in the oil pan
 
Now I actually find the timing marks. It apears that crankshaft pulley is about two teeth away from the mark.

Do you habve any suggestions how to block the camshaft pulley and injector pulley?
An old manual for the Peugeot engine describes holes in the pulleys and engine block which can be used to block the pulleys with a simple bult.

These pulleys can not be blocket in the same way
 

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Now I actually find the timing marks. It apears that crankshaft pulley is about two teeth away from the mark.

Do you habve any suggestions how to block the camshaft pulley and injector pulley?
An old manual for the Peugeot engine describes holes in the pulleys and engine block which can be used to block the pulleys with a simple bult.

These pulleys can not be blocket in the same way
On the Peugeots there was a Z shaped tool that located in the flywheel via a hole on the block behind the starter, but note it is for timing only , not as a lock tool so don't damage it.
I see yours has the circle/dot on the pulleys to locate the V pyramid shape on the block/head, when they are all cleaned up so it is accurate, you have to try and look along the teeth from the circle/dot to ensure accurate timing. Sometimes I would put a little white Tippex from the dot on the end of teeth and at the end nearest the block to make it easier.
You may find it easier to remove the starter to locate the timing hole I am referring to as then you can put a small spanner (10mm?) in the teeth to jam the flywheel whilst tightening nuts/bolts etc.
 
Yes I have picture of this Z shaped tool. I have some hole not deep on flywheel but I see no hole on the block. According this manual the Z shaped tool can be used for blocking and timing check
 

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Yes I have picture of this Z shaped tool. I have some hole not deep on flywheel but I see no hole on the block. According this manual the Z shaped tool can be used for blocking and timing check
I actually still have one somewhere in my garage, but there is so much junk in there it would take a month to find it, unless I was looking for something else ;). I suppose it depends how much force you need to put on it, re using as a locking tool.
As I recall it was behind the starter motor and slide in towards the gearbox direction so you could actually use it with the starter in place.
If you put your fingers behind the starter you may be able to feel the hole.
 
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