Technical Ducato 230 2.5 TDI Engine 8140.47 Repair Data

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Technical Ducato 230 2.5 TDI Engine 8140.47 Repair Data

imises

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Hello everyone,

Unfortunately, the crankshaft case gasket on my engine (8140.47 116ps 2.5 tdi) is leaking. This means I'll have to remove the entire engine.

While I'm at it, I'd like to partially overhaul the engine as it's already done 300,000km.

I couldn't find any workshop manuals or other data (tolerances, wear limits etc.) for this engine online, so I wanted to ask if anyone here might happen to have the relevant specifications and could share them with me? :)
 
Model
Ducato 230
Year
1994
Mileage
300000
Hello everyone,

Unfortunately, the crankshaft case gasket on my engine (8140.47 116ps 2.5 tdi) is leaking. This means I'll have to remove the entire engine.

While I'm at it, I'd like to partially overhaul the engine as it's already done 300,000km.

I couldn't find any workshop manuals or other data (tolerances, wear limits etc.) for this engine online, so I wanted to ask if anyone here might happen to have the relevant specifications and could share them with me? :)
This seems to be the data for the 8140.27 in your vehicle, those two manuals (1995 and 2004) list it as the 8140.27, I don't think there is much difference apart from the power output for the 8140.47.
Wikipedia has some details about engine outputs etc. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sofim_8140_engine .
I have rebuilt in the past those Sofim engines in 2.5 and 2.8 format, mostly in Iveco Daily's, Also the 2.8 TDi in a 1997 Ducato which I put in my boat.
I think there may be an Iveco pdf. in the Fiat Forum down loads.
The two are basically the same engine although not interchangeable due to the Daily being rear wheel drive so sits vertical not inclined like the Ducato, this means the lower crankshaft bearing cage, sump, oil pick up etc. are different.
The engines are fairly straightforward to rebuild, just a heavy lump, so a decent crane required. After fitting in my boat in place of a V6 3.75 litre cast iron 150hp engine , I had to remove all the ballast!
I may have some detail re cam belt timing etc. However I would advise you take note of where the spacer collars etc. go on the timing cover as if they are fitted incorrectly the tensioner may come loose and damage the engine, bent con rods are common after that happens!!!
Apart from new bearings belt and gaskets, I found the cylinder bores often just needed a light hone and new piston rings, even at high mileages.
I always recut the valve seats, lapped in the valves and set the shims. Keep in correct order of course.:)
After high mileage if oil has been dirty the crank may be marked where the big seal behind the flywheel sits causing oil leak.
 

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This seems to be the data for the 8140.27 in your vehicle, those two manuals (1995 and 2004) list it as the 8140.27,outp I don't think there is much difference apart from the power ouput for the 8140.47.
Wikipedia has some details about engine outputs etc. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sofim_8140_engine .
I have rebuilt in the past those Sofim engines in 2.5 and 2.8 format, mostly in Iveco Daily's, Also the 2.8 TDi in a 1997 Ducato which I put in my boat.
I think there may be an Iveco pdf. in the Fiat Forum down loads.
The two are basically the same engine although not interchangeable due to the Daily being rear wheel drive so sits vertical not inclined like the Ducato, this means the lower crankshaft bearing cage, sump, oil pick up etc. are different.
The engines are fairly straightforward to rebuild, just a heavy lump, so a decent crane required. After fitting in my boat in place of a V6 3.75 litre cast iron 150hp engine , I had to remove all the ballast!
I may have some detail re cam belt timing etc. However I would advise you take note of where the spacer collars etc. go on the timing cover as if they are fitted incorrectly the tensioner may come loose and damage the engine, bent con rods are common after that happens!!!
Apart from new bearings belt and gaskets, I found the cylinder bores often just needed a light hone and new piston rings, even at high mileages.
I always recut the valve seats, lapped in the valves and set the shims. Keep in correct order of course.:)
After high mileage if oil has been dirty the crank may be marked where the big seal behind the flywheel sits causing oil leak.
The 8140.47 is an intercooled version of the same engine.
 
You guys are awesome!! The information has helped me make a big step forward!!

The mentioned Iveco PDF contains the 8140.47R engine. As far as I know, it's identical to the 8140.47 (without R). The only difference is an electric injection pump.

The PDF contains many measurements etc. Although it doesn't mention exact tolerances as I had hoped, I suspect I won't get more detailed information.

The PDF can be found here:

Regarding "crank may be marked" – do you have any idea how to fix this? I couldn't find suitable Speedi-Sleeves. Or is the only option here to replace the crankshaft?
 
Regarding "crank may be marked" – do you have any idea how to fix this? I couldn't find suitable Speedi-Sleeves. Or is the only option here to replace the crankshaft?
???
You guys are awesome!! The information has helped me make a big step forward!!

The mentioned Iveco PDF contains the 8140.47R engine. As far as I know, it's identical to the 8140.47 (without R). The only difference is an electric injection pump.

The PDF contains many measurements etc. Although it doesn't mention exact tolerances as I had hoped, I suspect I won't get more detailed information.

The PDF can be found here:

Regarding "crank may be marked" – do you have any idea how to fix this? I couldn't find suitable Speedi-Sleeves. Or is the only option here to replace the crankshaft?
What "tolerances" did you need.
Generally re crank if no scoring and shell bearings not worn down to copper, usually a new set the same size will do the job.
Re piston ring clearance on water cooled engines I always worked on 3 thousands of an inch per inch of bore with no problems. You will have to convert from imperial to metric.;)
 
Sorry for my lack of knowledge 🙈. This will be my first engine that I overhaul. Although I do have someone who knows about this stuff, I wanted to gather some (important) information in advance :D I assumed there would be information about when tolerance/clearance limits are reached, for example for the piston running surface. But apparently this seems to be more generally applicable to engines.

Crank may be marked: I thought you meant the crankshaft seals on the timing belt side and the gearbox side. I've read here quite often that the crankshaft wears slightly in that area and even a new seal then won't be tight anymore.This can apparently be fixed with Speedi-Sleeves. If you can find ones in the right size. There don't seem to be any suitable ones for the diameter. I was hoping you might have another solution ;)
 
Sorry for my lack of knowledge 🙈. This will be my first engine that I overhaul. Although I do have someone who knows about this stuff, I wanted to gather some (important) information in advance :D I assumed there would be information about when tolerance/clearance limits are reached, for example for the piston running surface. But apparently this seems to be more generally applicable to engines.

Crank may be marked: I thought you meant the crankshaft seals on the timing belt side and the gearbox side. I've read here quite often that the crankshaft wears slightly in that area and even a new seal then won't be tight anymore.This can apparently be fixed with Speedi-Sleeves. If you can find ones in the right size. There don't seem to be any suitable ones for the diameter. I was hoping you might have another solution ;)
Ah! Sorry misunderstanding.
I have seen a few where the crank seal wears a groove in the crankshaft behind the flywheel never heard of "speedi sleeves".
Some engines the oil seal can be positioned not so deep onto the crank so on an unworn area, however on these the rear seal is in a housing assembly so not viable.
 
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