Technical How to install a Kill Switch?

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Technical How to install a Kill Switch?

I seriously doubt the part about the ABS. However, Power steering is most definitely off unless the engine is running. I tried it myself on an empty road just to double check , and the steering gradually becomes unassisted until you're totally on your own. You don't wanna drive without power steering on a FWD car. Of course I'm not going to test the ABS claim myself though.

I don't know of you know, but its stated in the manual that the engine cuts off fuel supply to the engine when coasting (in gear), so I don't think you need any kill switch.

I think there's a line between being good to your car to keep it in a good condition and save fuel, and having to suffer just to save some money.

My Bravo is a 2008 T-JET Sport model and I doesn't lose power steering with the engine off. You need to change the key to run position after shutting down the engine and do it above 40km/h. You can try

By any means don't remove the key because it will lock the steering wheel
 
I don't know of you know, but its stated in the manual that the engine cuts off fuel supply to the engine when coasting (in gear), so I don't think you need any kill switch.

Indeed.

What our portugese friend here is doing is a stupid myth from the old ages. there's absolutely nothing to gain from turning off the engine on the bravo as I said earlier.
 
Indeed.

What our Portuguese friend here is doing is a stupid myth from the old ages. there's absolutely nothing to gain from turning off the engine on the bravo as I said earlier.

Braking with the engine is different than coasting. Everyone knows that if we brake with the gears box the injectors shut down and the fuel consumption is zero but still you are braking not coasting
 
Braking with the engine is different than coasting. Everyone knows that if we brake with the gears box the injectors shut down and the fuel consumption is zero but still you are braking not coasting

Who said anything about braking?

If you drive your bravo and let off the gas pedal while the car is still moving, the engine is cosuming 0.000 liter of fuel. You don't need to turn the engine off.

Go read your user manual. it has much better advice on how to drive economically than the crazy myths you believe in.
 
What I said was:

Let off the gas pedal while in gear = braking with the gearbox
The car will stop much sooner than if you leave in neutral, it is not the same and its not a myth

I doubt that you will ever learn to drive economically from the owners manual but if you wan't to check more "myths" you can learn from here:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php
 
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So your idea of driving economically is solder stuff to your ignition that can go wrong, turn off the engine and all the safety equipement while driving at speed, damage yourexpensive clutch and gear box only to save a few penies on fuel?

not to mention that if you have a serious accident and they find the tinkering you did with your car you can be convicted of man slaughter and spend some very fuel efficient time in jail.

You can also get out of your car and push it to save fuel, but that's also stupid...
 
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So your idea of driving economically is solder stuff to your ignition that can go wrong, turn off the engine and all the safety equipement while driving at speed, damage yourexpensive clutch and gear box only to save a few penies on fuel?

not to mention that if you have a serious accident and they find the tinkering you did with your car you can be convicted of man slaughter and spend some very fuel efficient time in jail.

You can also get out of your car and push it to save fuel, but that's also stupid...
"Spend some very fuel efficient time in jail"

Comment of the year so far.
 
Who said anything about braking?
I think he meant engine braking because the engine and transmission are coupled together when in gear. Can you explain what you meant by damaging the transmission though? I thought only automatic transmissions can be damaged by coasting due to the fact that they require oil pumps for lubrication (which are only on when the engine is)
@andrenoitea, Just a thought about bump starting the car though, DON'T. It's clearly stated in the user manual. I don't think you'll like it if you have to pay for a new catalytic converter. I've attached a screenshot from the user manual.

Another thing is that you'll be putting a huge strain on the battery, because you're running the accessories without it being recharged by the alternator. You'll also not have any AC, which I can't imagine being fun in a hot country like yours.

You won't be getting any brake boost either, which is also unsafe as the engine supplies the vacuum to the brake booster when running. If your car has ASR (on the sport model), you won't be getting any help if your wheels start spinning either. I don't know about the airbags though.

You don't want to get into a situation in which you wish you were just driving with the engine on. It's not worth it IMO.
 

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Fwiw, ancient history lesson - way,way back in the 1950's? Rover and Saab had cars fitted with a manual transmission and a free-wheel. It didn't catch on, not sure why but might have been due to people's preference for engine braking or because many countries driving instructors taught that free-wheeling was unsafe i.e. not being in full control of the vehicle.

Fast forward to today's cars, fitted with so much safety equipment dependent on ignition being on/engine running and it's dangerously irresponsible to coast in neutral either with engine running or not!

If you want to save fuel :-

Dríve the car as the manufacturer advises or reduce your mileage or change your car for a more fuel efficient model - diesel?,LPG conversion? or smaller engine

Al.
 
I'm aware that the user manual says not to bump start the car.

You may not believe in my words but the reason it says its because if the engine fails to star with the starter it may have some problem and bump start may damage even more the motor or catalytic converter.

If the ignition is on and the engine starts right away that is fine. If some defect creates a condition where fuel is sprayed into the engine with no spark to ignite it, that fuel will ignite in the cat if the cat is hot. Do that long enough and the cat housing will melt.

The car have to start instantly and if not you should't force because you may flood the cylinders with unburn fuel.
If the engine if healthy, the ECU it will never allow flooding just the same as if you use the starter.

"Another thing is that you'll be putting a huge strain on the battery" - very true, that's the reason because I never engine off coasting at night and that is also one of the reasons I bump start the car so I don't stress the battery

"You won't be getting any brake boost either, which is also unsafe as the engine supplies the vacuum to the brake booster when running" - Yes thats also true, I'm aware of the limitations of my bravo, with engine off the brakes will work fine as long I don't press the brake pedal more than 10 times. That is more than enough in the low traffic roads were I drive.
 
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One friend of mine also wrote this explanation that may help further understanding the question about the cat:

"A modern engine will start burning fuel nearly instantly when started, even when cold. So the air-fuel mixture is burned before it gets to the cat. Even more true for a warm engine. Remember, there's no fuel being injected after engine cut-off so it's not pooling anywhere. Spark and fuel both begin when you spin it up by letting the clutch out.

I think the bogus caution likely dates back to the days of carburetors and points-plugs-condenser ignition setups, where miscellaneous starting issues would end up flooding the engine. If you THEN get the idea to roll it down the driveway and bump start it, all that flooded fuel gets dumped into the cat and would burn there as soon as the cat gets hot enough. Depending on exactly when and how the engine starts, of course. But the cat is designed to get mostly 'combusted' air-fuel mixture, not mostly raw fuel plus air. So the dumped fuel would be bad for the cat.

But that scenario is not likely in your modern computer-controlled car. If the fuel management and ignition are in bad enough shape that raw fuel continually gets to the cat, the car is going to be very tough to drive if you can keep it going at all. In that case, continued operation would likely ruin the cat converter with or without bump starting."
 
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