FIAT PUNTO 1242cc to Oct '99 (Mk I)
CLUTCH RENEWAL
Transmission removal
1. Work on a level surface. Apply handbrake and place chocks behind rear wheels. Slacken front LH (nearside) wheel bolts half a turn (it’s easier while weight is on the wheels). Jack up front of car (jack under transmission) and support on axle stands at side jacking points. Use wooden noggins between axle stands and body with suitably cut grooves to accommodate sill edges.
The important bit….. Ensure car is really stable before proceeding further. Do not work under a car unless you are absolutely sure it cannot drop. Remember that you may be pulling, pushing, etc. when undoing tight bolts. Do not take risks!
2. Remove front LH (nearside) wheel.
3. Remove battery. Note: If radio is coded, ensure code is known before disconnecting battery. Alternatively, use a "memory saver" or "code saver" device (a battery that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket - read the instructions).
4. Undo cable-clip from its side and remove battery tray (four bolts but the two at rear are on slots so just loosen them).
5. Disconnect reversing light connector (front of transmission).
6. Cable clutch: Unscrew locknut and adjusting nut from end of cable and disconnect from transmission. Recover the damper block.
Hydraulic clutch: Remove clutch slave cylinder (two bolts).
7. Lift the reverse gear inhibiting device from the transmission (it was secured by the clutch slave cylinder bolt – may be separate bolt with cable clutch). Release its cable from the clip near rear of transmission. Release the electrical cable from the same clip.
8. Disconnect earth lead on top of transmission (nut and washer).
9. Disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission by undoing the nut underneath. Hold the rod end down to stop it rotating while undoing the nut.
10. Pull out the “C” clip from the bracket and prise the ball joint apart at the end of the gear engagement cable. Remove the cable through the mounting bracket. If struggling with the “C” clip you can alternatively unbolt the mounting bracket from the transmission (three bolts).
11. Unscrew the bolt that secures the starter motor from the transmission side. It is near a large transmission-to-engine bolt.
12. Remove air filter assembly (clip at pipe end and two spring clips) and ducting (two nuts and two pipes). Remove the black plastic cover near the windscreen (two screws). This is to allow use of a plank when supporting the transmission.
13. Locate the speedometer sensor at the rear of the transmission, trace the wiring upwards and disconnect the plug. The wires are in blue sleeving. Undo the bulkhead clip that it passes through (the sensor and cable will stay with the transmission).
14. Lift the engine a little with a trolley jack and support it at the LH (nearside) of the sump with a stack of wooden planks (or other non compressible support).
15. If fitted, unbolt the support brace from engine to transmission and recover the spacer plate.
16. If fitted, unbolt the exhaust clamp from the bell housing. Note: this clamp corrodes and can fail MOT. The fix is to remove and discard as it is not really needed.
17. Remove bell housing lower cover plate (four small bolts, upper rear one is in slot so just loosen it).
18. Unscrew the remaining two starter motor mounting bolts and support the starter motor to one side. Note for later reference that the two bolts also retain a bracket.
19. Remove the large nut and two washers from the stud projecting through the engine from the transmission. This is just below the starter motor.
20. Remove retaining clip securing RH and LH driveshaft inner CV gaiters to joint bodies and release gaiters. Careful removal will enable reuse of the clips.
21. Remove the vertical central bolt from the rear transmission mount. Remove the two bolts securing the mount to the transmission. Recover nuts and washers. Note: If the upper bolt is facing the centre of the car it will be trapped by the chassis and the mount cannot be released until the transmission is lowered. When refitting, both bolts can be fitted from inside with nuts on outside.
22. Remove bolts securing LH (nearside) engine/transmission mounting to body (three off), then remove bolts from transmission (three off) and remove the mounting.
23. Remove the upper bolt securing LH (nearside) swivel hub to suspension strut. If tight, hammer out carefully with a suitable drift. Slacken the lower bolt so that the hub can be swung outwards at the top away from the strut.
24. Swing the LH hub outwards and pull the driveshaft out of joint body. Cover joint and spider to reduce loss of grease (I used a couple of plastic food bags and elastic bands).
25. Support weight of transmission with a rope slung underneath and tied round a plank placed across inner wings. Cover ends of plank to protect paintwork. Avoid placing end of plank over washer filler cap on LH inner wing.
26. Unscrew and remove the three large transmission-to-engine mounting bolts (one rear upper, one front upper and one front lower). Note for later reference that each bolt also retains a bracket.
27. Check that all brackets, pipes, hoses and wiring are moved clear or tied out of the way then carefully pull the transmission away from the engine, keeping it level until input shaft is clear of clutch. Note: The RH (offside) drive shaft CV joint will part during this manoeuvre.
28. Lower the jack and release the rope gradually. It may be useful to use a trolley jack to support the weight during this manoeuvre. It is really a two man job. Remove the transmission from under the car. Cover the RH (offside) CV joint to protect it and avoid loss of grease.
Clutch renewal
1. If pressure plate is to be reused, mark position relative to flywheel.
2. Remove the six bolts securing the pressure plate, working in a diagonal sequence to ensure even release of pressure.
3. Remove pressure plate and friction (driven) plate. Clean debris from flywheel and surrounds using a damp cloth. Note: Friction material could contain asbestos - take care not to blow the brown dust.
4. If necessary, remove discolouration or glazing from flywheel with fine emery paper.
5. Position friction plate against flywheel using an alignment tool. The raised spring assemblies need to be outermost – probably also marked “gearbox side”.
A do it yourself alignment tool can be made from a short length of 15mm copper pipe or wooden dowel (about 150mm) with sufficient PVC tape or masking tape wrapped round it a couple of inches from the end to just fit in the driven plate splines. Wrap a similar amount of tape around the end of the pipe to locate in the flywheel.
Note: Hole in flywheel is larger than that in clutch plate but taped pipe will centralize in its countersunk hollow.
6. Mount pressure plate, aligning with the three flywheel dowels and secure with six bolts, finger tight. Centralize friction plate using the pipe (or tool). Remove pipe and visually check centralization.
7. Tighten pressure plate working in a diagonal sequence to ensure even application of pressure.
Refitting transmission
1. If necessary, clean the inside of the bell housing. Use detergent, paraffin, Jizer or similar cleaning agent. Do not use compressed air due to danger of asbestos from old clutch lining debris.
2. To remove release fork (if desired to enable cleaning and lubrication), remove the circlip and lever (keyed spline) and the outer brass bush. Lubricate bearing surfaces with grease and reassemble.
3. Fit new thrust bearing, smearing high melting point grease to its bore and to pivot points on release fork.
4. Smear high melting point grease on gearbox input shaft splines.
5. Position transmission under car and support with a rope tied round a plank placed across inner wings. Cover ends of plank to protect paintwork. Avoid placing end of plank over windscreen washer filler cap.
6. Lift gearbox manually, taking up slack in rope to provide support. When sufficiently high, use jack under transmission to provide additional lift and support.
7. Manoeuvre transmission into place, ensuring that cables, brackets, etc. are not trapped between bell housing and engine block. Remove any temporary protection and relocate RH (offside) CV joint during this manoeuvre.
Note: This whole operation may be a little hit and miss and requires observation of alignment from above and below the bell housing, noting that the upper bell housing cover locates on two dowels. It is really a two man job.
8. Refit the three large transmission-to-engine bolts, remembering to fit the brackets on each. Remove the plank and rope.
9. Refit LH (nearside) engine/transmission mounting to transmission (three bolts) and to body (three bolts). Note: Leave bolts loose until all in place. If necessary, lift or lower transmission on jack to assist alignment.
10. Refit rear engine mount (two bolts, washers and nuts to transmission, one vertical bolt into mount).
11. Relocate LH (offside) CV joint to transmission. Realign hub and refit upper bolts and nut. Tighten lower bolt that was loosened.
12. Refit the retaining clip for both CV gaiters (use of new clips is recommended but originals will suffice if not damaged).
Note: If extra grease is required in CV joints, Fiat recommends Tutela MRM2 or equivalent.
13. Refit washers and large nut to stud projecting through engine from transmission.
14. Refit the two starter motor bolts that were removed from underneath.
15. Refit bell housing lower cover plate (four small bolts, one should have been retained in the plate to go in a slot).
16. Refit exhaust clamp to bell housing (if required – see earlier note on redundancy).
17.Refit support brace to engine and transmission (if fitted), including spacer plate.
18. Remove support from sump.
19. Reconnect speedometer sensor. Refit cable in bulkhead clip.
20. Refit black plastic cover, ducting and air filter assembly.
21. Refit last starter motor bolt from transmission side.
22. Reconnect gear engagement cable and refit “C” clip.
23. Reconnect gear selector rod.
24. Reconnect earth lead to top of transmission.
25. Refit reverse gear inhibiting device. Refit its cable in the clip. Refit the electrical cable in the same clip.
26. Refit clutch slave cylinder and plunger/gaiter (hydraulic) or reconnect clutch cable.
27. Reconnect reversing light connector.
28. Refit battery tray and battery. Relocate cables in clip in side of tray.
29. Refit wheel.
30. Remove axle stands (or ramps if used) and lower car to ground.
31. Tighten wheel bolts.
32. Perform a final check that all cables, pipes, etc. have been returned to their original positions and fixings and that no parts are left over.
General notes:
Tighten fixings to specified torque (see below).
The engine may run unevenly at first because the ECU will have defaulted to factory settings without power and will have to re-learn optimum settings.
Torque settings
Clutch pressure plate 16Nm 12lbf ft
Engine-to-transmission attachment bolts 85Nm 63lbf ft
LH transmission mounting bracket to transmission bolts 50Nm 37lbf ft
LH transmission mounting to body bolts 25Nm 18lbf ft
Rear transmission mounting to transmission bolt/nut 80Nm 59lbf ft
Strut to swivel hub 75Nm 55lbf ft
Starter motor 27Nm 20lbf ft
Road wheel bolts 86Nm 63lbf ft
Source information
Legg A K, Drayton, S, 1999, Haynes Service and Repair Manual 3251: FIAT PUNTO 1994 to Oct 1999 (L to V registration) Petrol & Diesel, Haynes Publishing, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ
ISBN 1 85960 561 3
CLUTCH RENEWAL
Transmission removal
1. Work on a level surface. Apply handbrake and place chocks behind rear wheels. Slacken front LH (nearside) wheel bolts half a turn (it’s easier while weight is on the wheels). Jack up front of car (jack under transmission) and support on axle stands at side jacking points. Use wooden noggins between axle stands and body with suitably cut grooves to accommodate sill edges.
The important bit….. Ensure car is really stable before proceeding further. Do not work under a car unless you are absolutely sure it cannot drop. Remember that you may be pulling, pushing, etc. when undoing tight bolts. Do not take risks!
2. Remove front LH (nearside) wheel.
3. Remove battery. Note: If radio is coded, ensure code is known before disconnecting battery. Alternatively, use a "memory saver" or "code saver" device (a battery that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket - read the instructions).
4. Undo cable-clip from its side and remove battery tray (four bolts but the two at rear are on slots so just loosen them).
5. Disconnect reversing light connector (front of transmission).
6. Cable clutch: Unscrew locknut and adjusting nut from end of cable and disconnect from transmission. Recover the damper block.
Hydraulic clutch: Remove clutch slave cylinder (two bolts).
7. Lift the reverse gear inhibiting device from the transmission (it was secured by the clutch slave cylinder bolt – may be separate bolt with cable clutch). Release its cable from the clip near rear of transmission. Release the electrical cable from the same clip.
8. Disconnect earth lead on top of transmission (nut and washer).
9. Disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission by undoing the nut underneath. Hold the rod end down to stop it rotating while undoing the nut.
10. Pull out the “C” clip from the bracket and prise the ball joint apart at the end of the gear engagement cable. Remove the cable through the mounting bracket. If struggling with the “C” clip you can alternatively unbolt the mounting bracket from the transmission (three bolts).
11. Unscrew the bolt that secures the starter motor from the transmission side. It is near a large transmission-to-engine bolt.
12. Remove air filter assembly (clip at pipe end and two spring clips) and ducting (two nuts and two pipes). Remove the black plastic cover near the windscreen (two screws). This is to allow use of a plank when supporting the transmission.
13. Locate the speedometer sensor at the rear of the transmission, trace the wiring upwards and disconnect the plug. The wires are in blue sleeving. Undo the bulkhead clip that it passes through (the sensor and cable will stay with the transmission).
14. Lift the engine a little with a trolley jack and support it at the LH (nearside) of the sump with a stack of wooden planks (or other non compressible support).
15. If fitted, unbolt the support brace from engine to transmission and recover the spacer plate.
16. If fitted, unbolt the exhaust clamp from the bell housing. Note: this clamp corrodes and can fail MOT. The fix is to remove and discard as it is not really needed.
17. Remove bell housing lower cover plate (four small bolts, upper rear one is in slot so just loosen it).
18. Unscrew the remaining two starter motor mounting bolts and support the starter motor to one side. Note for later reference that the two bolts also retain a bracket.
19. Remove the large nut and two washers from the stud projecting through the engine from the transmission. This is just below the starter motor.
20. Remove retaining clip securing RH and LH driveshaft inner CV gaiters to joint bodies and release gaiters. Careful removal will enable reuse of the clips.
21. Remove the vertical central bolt from the rear transmission mount. Remove the two bolts securing the mount to the transmission. Recover nuts and washers. Note: If the upper bolt is facing the centre of the car it will be trapped by the chassis and the mount cannot be released until the transmission is lowered. When refitting, both bolts can be fitted from inside with nuts on outside.
22. Remove bolts securing LH (nearside) engine/transmission mounting to body (three off), then remove bolts from transmission (three off) and remove the mounting.
23. Remove the upper bolt securing LH (nearside) swivel hub to suspension strut. If tight, hammer out carefully with a suitable drift. Slacken the lower bolt so that the hub can be swung outwards at the top away from the strut.
24. Swing the LH hub outwards and pull the driveshaft out of joint body. Cover joint and spider to reduce loss of grease (I used a couple of plastic food bags and elastic bands).
25. Support weight of transmission with a rope slung underneath and tied round a plank placed across inner wings. Cover ends of plank to protect paintwork. Avoid placing end of plank over washer filler cap on LH inner wing.
26. Unscrew and remove the three large transmission-to-engine mounting bolts (one rear upper, one front upper and one front lower). Note for later reference that each bolt also retains a bracket.
27. Check that all brackets, pipes, hoses and wiring are moved clear or tied out of the way then carefully pull the transmission away from the engine, keeping it level until input shaft is clear of clutch. Note: The RH (offside) drive shaft CV joint will part during this manoeuvre.
28. Lower the jack and release the rope gradually. It may be useful to use a trolley jack to support the weight during this manoeuvre. It is really a two man job. Remove the transmission from under the car. Cover the RH (offside) CV joint to protect it and avoid loss of grease.
Clutch renewal
1. If pressure plate is to be reused, mark position relative to flywheel.
2. Remove the six bolts securing the pressure plate, working in a diagonal sequence to ensure even release of pressure.
3. Remove pressure plate and friction (driven) plate. Clean debris from flywheel and surrounds using a damp cloth. Note: Friction material could contain asbestos - take care not to blow the brown dust.
4. If necessary, remove discolouration or glazing from flywheel with fine emery paper.
5. Position friction plate against flywheel using an alignment tool. The raised spring assemblies need to be outermost – probably also marked “gearbox side”.
A do it yourself alignment tool can be made from a short length of 15mm copper pipe or wooden dowel (about 150mm) with sufficient PVC tape or masking tape wrapped round it a couple of inches from the end to just fit in the driven plate splines. Wrap a similar amount of tape around the end of the pipe to locate in the flywheel.
Note: Hole in flywheel is larger than that in clutch plate but taped pipe will centralize in its countersunk hollow.
6. Mount pressure plate, aligning with the three flywheel dowels and secure with six bolts, finger tight. Centralize friction plate using the pipe (or tool). Remove pipe and visually check centralization.
7. Tighten pressure plate working in a diagonal sequence to ensure even application of pressure.
Refitting transmission
1. If necessary, clean the inside of the bell housing. Use detergent, paraffin, Jizer or similar cleaning agent. Do not use compressed air due to danger of asbestos from old clutch lining debris.
2. To remove release fork (if desired to enable cleaning and lubrication), remove the circlip and lever (keyed spline) and the outer brass bush. Lubricate bearing surfaces with grease and reassemble.
3. Fit new thrust bearing, smearing high melting point grease to its bore and to pivot points on release fork.
4. Smear high melting point grease on gearbox input shaft splines.
5. Position transmission under car and support with a rope tied round a plank placed across inner wings. Cover ends of plank to protect paintwork. Avoid placing end of plank over windscreen washer filler cap.
6. Lift gearbox manually, taking up slack in rope to provide support. When sufficiently high, use jack under transmission to provide additional lift and support.
7. Manoeuvre transmission into place, ensuring that cables, brackets, etc. are not trapped between bell housing and engine block. Remove any temporary protection and relocate RH (offside) CV joint during this manoeuvre.
Note: This whole operation may be a little hit and miss and requires observation of alignment from above and below the bell housing, noting that the upper bell housing cover locates on two dowels. It is really a two man job.
8. Refit the three large transmission-to-engine bolts, remembering to fit the brackets on each. Remove the plank and rope.
9. Refit LH (nearside) engine/transmission mounting to transmission (three bolts) and to body (three bolts). Note: Leave bolts loose until all in place. If necessary, lift or lower transmission on jack to assist alignment.
10. Refit rear engine mount (two bolts, washers and nuts to transmission, one vertical bolt into mount).
11. Relocate LH (offside) CV joint to transmission. Realign hub and refit upper bolts and nut. Tighten lower bolt that was loosened.
12. Refit the retaining clip for both CV gaiters (use of new clips is recommended but originals will suffice if not damaged).
Note: If extra grease is required in CV joints, Fiat recommends Tutela MRM2 or equivalent.
13. Refit washers and large nut to stud projecting through engine from transmission.
14. Refit the two starter motor bolts that were removed from underneath.
15. Refit bell housing lower cover plate (four small bolts, one should have been retained in the plate to go in a slot).
16. Refit exhaust clamp to bell housing (if required – see earlier note on redundancy).
17.Refit support brace to engine and transmission (if fitted), including spacer plate.
18. Remove support from sump.
19. Reconnect speedometer sensor. Refit cable in bulkhead clip.
20. Refit black plastic cover, ducting and air filter assembly.
21. Refit last starter motor bolt from transmission side.
22. Reconnect gear engagement cable and refit “C” clip.
23. Reconnect gear selector rod.
24. Reconnect earth lead to top of transmission.
25. Refit reverse gear inhibiting device. Refit its cable in the clip. Refit the electrical cable in the same clip.
26. Refit clutch slave cylinder and plunger/gaiter (hydraulic) or reconnect clutch cable.
27. Reconnect reversing light connector.
28. Refit battery tray and battery. Relocate cables in clip in side of tray.
29. Refit wheel.
30. Remove axle stands (or ramps if used) and lower car to ground.
31. Tighten wheel bolts.
32. Perform a final check that all cables, pipes, etc. have been returned to their original positions and fixings and that no parts are left over.
General notes:
Tighten fixings to specified torque (see below).
The engine may run unevenly at first because the ECU will have defaulted to factory settings without power and will have to re-learn optimum settings.
Torque settings
Clutch pressure plate 16Nm 12lbf ft
Engine-to-transmission attachment bolts 85Nm 63lbf ft
LH transmission mounting bracket to transmission bolts 50Nm 37lbf ft
LH transmission mounting to body bolts 25Nm 18lbf ft
Rear transmission mounting to transmission bolt/nut 80Nm 59lbf ft
Strut to swivel hub 75Nm 55lbf ft
Starter motor 27Nm 20lbf ft
Road wheel bolts 86Nm 63lbf ft
Source information
Legg A K, Drayton, S, 1999, Haynes Service and Repair Manual 3251: FIAT PUNTO 1994 to Oct 1999 (L to V registration) Petrol & Diesel, Haynes Publishing, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ
ISBN 1 85960 561 3
