Technical HGT: Does the cam cover have to be removed to fit the timing belt?

[MikeSalt]

Hi guys,

Just taken my HGT in for a service, and a lot of oil was found in the spark plug holes, traced back to the rocker cover gasket, which was replaced. However, having looked at my engine today to find out why the oil level was low, I found that the rocker cover has been snapped off at the rear, nearside bolt hole. Due to the cleanliness of the break, and the fact I never noticed it before, I am 99% certain that my garage did this. The owner is a decent chap and has always looked after my mk1, but may try to claim that the cover was damaged during the cambelt change 10,000 miles ago. If I need to pull punches, would the cover have been removed to install locking tools for the cambelt change? It turns out that the guy that did the service said nothing about this crack to the garage owner, which seems to indicate that he had something to hide.

Many thanks,

Mike

 

[MikeSalt]

Answered my own question, and the answer is no. The cam is locked via a tool screwed through the side of the cylinder head. With self-adjusting hydraulic tappets, and consulting the service history, I know for sure that my garage were the only one to disturb the rocker cover, and therefore they broke it. I am pretty sure that they will see me right anyway, just wanted to compile my evidence first.

 

[shaun200765]

Fingers crossed for you on this Mike, hope the guy is straight with you

 

[D4nny8oy]

Answered my own question, and the answer is no. The cam is locked via a tool screwed through the side of the cylinder head.

That's the 1.2 16v engine. A HGT is a 1.8 16v, in which the cam cover is removed and a couple of cam caps in order to fit the cam template tools, unless they bodged it and used paint marks. Even so, it would've been removed to fit the cover gasket and 4 centre rings.

I've seen a couple of cases where the cover snaps/cracks in one corner. It needs to be tightened down working from the centre outwards and at a progressive rate (a little at a time). Cramming it down tight in one place will lead to a crack.

 

[sixpotman]

Must be common with the 1.8 mine snapped
off nearside at the rear of the rocker cover.
Beggar had used silicone sealer to fill the gap
I've used araldite fast setting glue to adhere it
back to the rest of the rocker now.

John

 

[MikeSalt]

Well, the break is very clean, no sign of anodising, so it has been done in the last week or so. Even if it was not, there is no way that they should have done the rocker cover gasket with an obvious crack.

Thanks for the support guys. I will suggest Araldite. Epoxy might work too I suppose since the whole Aston Martin and Lotus aluminium fleet is glued together with that stuff.

 

[sixpotman]

Araldite is an epoxy resin.

Had also thought of using the low temperature
alloy weld but glueing was quicker as the weld
would need shaping along the gasket area by
filing to shape.

John

 

[MikeSalt]

My garage are being very decent about it as expected. They were too busy today to sort it, but in a week's time they are going to take the rocker cover off, aluminium weld the bolt hole, remachine it and reinstall.

 

[DaveMcT]

Well done garage. Tell them about Lumiweld its excellent stuff and the heat is not enough to distort the parent metal.

 

[MikeSalt]

Rocker cover repaired free of charge. They even found that rattle for me, it turned out to be some suspension and ARB bolts that were not properly torqued, not their fault at all yet they still put it right free of charge. Great guys

For anyone in the Stoke-on-Trent area that needs a good garage...

C&S Haynes Limited
Unit 6
Stonewall Place
Silverdale
Newcastle under Lyme
Staffordshire
ST5 6NR

01782617200

 

[DaveMcT]

Do we have a reccommendations section where you could post the garage details?

 

[MikeSalt]

Do we have a reccommendations section where you could post the garage details?

I think we do actually, will copy the details to that section.

My garage and I still thinks that the car is burning oil faster than it should. No blue smoke, but no visible sign of oil leaks externally either (and no oil in the coolant system. Head gasket is unlikely to leak oil, so I guess that leaves piston rings and valve stem seals. Compression feels good, so I suppose it is more likely to the valve stem seals I guess? Are these known to be weak on the HGT. The car had full Fiat service history, so the only thing I can think of is the previous owner giving it the beans before the oil level reached the right temperature. I have had the dealer warranty come through, but I doubt the £250 limit will cover whatever it is I will need

 

[DaveMcT]

Mine had 67,000 when I did the valves repair. Obviously couldnt check the piston rings, but the bores still had visible honing marks so very little wear. The valve guides were all good and new stem seals were fitted.

But it does use a little more oil that I'd like if its driven hard. Maybe this is an HGT "feature". Keep to a good quality oil not less than 10w40 or 50 or 60 if you can justify the cost.

In the winter, 5w40 would be good to keep that variator happy on cold starts.

 

[MikeSalt]

Using about a litre every 450 miles at the moment, which I think is hugely excessive. The mileage of 40,000 miles over 6 years seems a bit low, so I suspect that there have been a lot of shorter journeys with the engine rarely at operating temperature. Give it the beans on cold, gummy oil and the top end is going to get a bit starved of its vital goodness. Valve repair would entail taking off the head, which would involve removing the timing belt, is that right? Occasionally, the variator sounds a little rougher than a 'sewing machine', but not quite a 'diesel clack'. I am wondering whether it is worth getting a new variator from S4P for £100 and get it fitted whilst the timing belt and head are off for this valve work. Of course, even though the belt, tensioner and pump are only 10,000 miles/1 year old, I would renew these as a matter of course.

Complete opposite of my previous car. The 1.1 8v engine was virtually bulletproof, it was the rest of the car that let it down. Now I have a car with a solid chassis, suspension, steering etc but an engine that appears to be churning up some issues. Hopefully though, once I sort it, all will be golden.

 

[MikeSalt]

I paid about £700 under what I would expect to pay for this car, but will have spent approximately £700 getting it to a state I am happy with. Fair's fair I suppose.

 

[DaveMcT]

Deffo replace the variator if having the head off or doing the timing belt. You will need cam timing locking blocks and I would replace the head bolts. Be VERY careful to get the head gasket the right way around - oil feed!!!

I believe its possible to get an overhaul kit for the variator. GSR no longer sell them since Fiat fixed the design fault.

Dont rush to do the job I'll see what my oil consumption is now its had an oil change. Give me a month or two to suss it out.

 

[MikeSalt]

No rush, run out of £££s until next payday anyway (never had that issue with my 55, despite all the mileage). I reckon for £100 I may as well get a new one from S4P anyway. Will be sending it to a garage to do the work since I need to claim on the warranty.

Got to get my previous car sold soon. I wanted to restore it back to stock condition first so A) the next owner can insure it with whoever they like since it is unmodified and B) I can make more money selling the bit seperately.

 

[DaveMcT]

No rush, run out of £££s until next payday anyway (never had that issue with my 55, despite all the mileage). I reckon for £100 I may as well get a new one from S4P anyway. Will be sending it to a garage to do the work since I need to claim on the warranty.

Got to get my previous car sold soon. I wanted to restore it back to stock condition first so A) the next owner can insure it with whoever they like since it is unmodified and B) I can make more money selling the bit seperately.

Top end gasket kit ~ £100 (includes head gasket and valve seals
Variator ~£100
Head bolts ~£50
Cam belt kit ~ £80

The valve seals are fiddly to do hopefully the garage have a suitable extractor. Also get the valve seats lapped even if it means paying another hour's labour charge. I would replace the exhaust studs too while its open.

If the garage are not familiar with HGTs tell them the head comes off complete with all the inlet manifold and equipment. There is a supporting bracket underneath that you access from below.

Do a search and you should find my instructions thread from late 2009. I never got around to making it into a guide.