all those stories you heard
i hate to tell you but they're true.
i could think of better ways to spend a grand so
i did mine myself with the help of my freindly local garage, dont't even think about doing it yourself unless you can get this kind of help. it's not necessary to remove the engine from the car, but you do need to remove all the ancillaries before you can push the engine over enough to get the timming cover off. this includes the radiator, drive shafts, alternator, power-steering pump, exhaust - do i need to go on? not a job for the faint hearted, i was lucky to have someone's work shop to use, it still took me a week of evenings about 14 hours in total, although i'd be quicker next time.
even if you decide not to do it, you should find a garage that will do for less than half what fiat want, it depends how important the stamp in the service history is to you!
hope this helps just - don't ask me to do it for you!!!!