Mary Faere
New member
Has anyone ever had issues with a new tensioner?
In my last post my boyfriend and I had replacing the timing belt and were trying to tension it. Since then we've progressed well and got the tension right (as by advice we found on the forum of it being turnable by 1 quarter/90 degrees on it's longest stretch).
But now we've hit this problem with the new tensioner and would really appreciate some advice, especially if anyone else has experience of it themselves.
When the tensioner's pulled forward, so the belt's tensioned correctly, the inner of the ouside rim is rubbing on the block behind, which the mounting stud protrudes from... Just by a tiny, minute fraction, but you can feel and hear the contact when you turn it by hand even though it's slight.
We'd got the engine engine running sweetly and were very happy... but then heard a gentle, quiet squealing sound and the tensioner got warm/hotish after less than a minute of running... we're now trying to figure out why this is and what to do about it. We're frightened to leave it like this in case it wrecks the new tensioner...
It's been suggested to use a washer for clearance... but with the inside of the tensioner being hollow I'm not sure where I'd put one! Copper slip was suggested too which sounds good... but would that be enough to permanently solve the friction problem or do we need to completely solve it?
When we ran the engine after replacing the timing belt the belt itself seemed to run to the inside of the tensioner, rather than the middle... it didn't fall off the edge but was right on it. Looking at the old tensioner the wear marks indicate it ran in the centre of that one. We're wondering if the stud got bent a bit when the old tensioner collapsed...
...could a bend in the stud be causing the running in of the belt and the friction when tensioned?
Latest news; we've tried gently knocking the stud back a bit but now the stud turns a little where as it didn't before and there's still friction it seems. Oh gosh! Have we wrecked the job?
Any help much appreciated!
In my last post my boyfriend and I had replacing the timing belt and were trying to tension it. Since then we've progressed well and got the tension right (as by advice we found on the forum of it being turnable by 1 quarter/90 degrees on it's longest stretch).
But now we've hit this problem with the new tensioner and would really appreciate some advice, especially if anyone else has experience of it themselves.
When the tensioner's pulled forward, so the belt's tensioned correctly, the inner of the ouside rim is rubbing on the block behind, which the mounting stud protrudes from... Just by a tiny, minute fraction, but you can feel and hear the contact when you turn it by hand even though it's slight.
We'd got the engine engine running sweetly and were very happy... but then heard a gentle, quiet squealing sound and the tensioner got warm/hotish after less than a minute of running... we're now trying to figure out why this is and what to do about it. We're frightened to leave it like this in case it wrecks the new tensioner...
It's been suggested to use a washer for clearance... but with the inside of the tensioner being hollow I'm not sure where I'd put one! Copper slip was suggested too which sounds good... but would that be enough to permanently solve the friction problem or do we need to completely solve it?
When we ran the engine after replacing the timing belt the belt itself seemed to run to the inside of the tensioner, rather than the middle... it didn't fall off the edge but was right on it. Looking at the old tensioner the wear marks indicate it ran in the centre of that one. We're wondering if the stud got bent a bit when the old tensioner collapsed...
...could a bend in the stud be causing the running in of the belt and the friction when tensioned?
Latest news; we've tried gently knocking the stud back a bit but now the stud turns a little where as it didn't before and there's still friction it seems. Oh gosh! Have we wrecked the job?
Any help much appreciated!
