Technical Handbrake
- Thread starter mingualez
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical Handbrake
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2008
- Messages
- 755
- Points
- 175
Under the gaiter coming up from floor on the underneath of the handbrake handle is a 13mm (I think) nut....that's where you tighten or loosen it
conanhoward
New member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2010
- Messages
- 46
- Points
- 6
drums or discs is the first question. if its shoes you probably need new ones .these are fitted with automatic adjusters that need to be wound back when you have fitted new shoes and then wound out so that the drum will just squeeze back on after. if you study the brakes while in bits it will all make sense.
1/2 " plastic nut. I found a 13mm spanner a bit loose, so tried half inch and it fitted. No room for a socket, so open-ended or ring spanner.
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2009
- Messages
- 716
- Points
- 164
If the travel on the handbrake has increased it points to brake adjusters nit doing their job... This is no surprise as they all fall apart(drums I'm assuming)
Take off your drums and study the adjusters... See if the spring is working and ratcheting properly.
If the spring us in anyway broken replace... Else copper grease and get them working again.
You shouldn't have to adjust at handbrake unless cables have stretched
Marty.
Take off your drums and study the adjusters... See if the spring is working and ratcheting properly.
If the spring us in anyway broken replace... Else copper grease and get them working again.
You shouldn't have to adjust at handbrake unless cables have stretched
Marty.
After you've adjusted, do a quick test drive and check that the drum shoes are releassing properly (if the drums are too hot to touch - or smoking! - then back off the adjuster and try again. I've found that only leaving 2-3 clicks of travel on my handbrake doesn't allow the shoes to release fully.
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2009
- Messages
- 716
- Points
- 164
Make sure there is slack in the cables though with handbrake released.
The slack is required to ensure the adjusters do their job... They compress and expand to autoadjust, if they are not allowed expand by tight overadjusted cables they simply won't be allowed autoadjust.
Also a slack hanbrake ensures that handbrake and pedal brake to not interfere with one another.
Marty.
The slack is required to ensure the adjusters do their job... They compress and expand to autoadjust, if they are not allowed expand by tight overadjusted cables they simply won't be allowed autoadjust.
Also a slack hanbrake ensures that handbrake and pedal brake to not interfere with one another.
Marty.
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2009
- Messages
- 716
- Points
- 164
Yeah snoo... The mod with the guttering is a cinch to do.
You'd have it done 30 minutes start to finish.
Marty.
You'd have it done 30 minutes start to finish.
Marty.
And what would that mod be. Link to etc would be of interest.Yeah snoo... The mod with the guttering is a cinch to do.
You'd have it done 30 minutes start to finish.
Marty.
Thanks!!!!!!
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2009
- Messages
- 716
- Points
- 164
I might even get around to doing that one evening this week. I've had the bit of guttering sat on my workbench for nearly a year now.....
The other bit that doesn't look too clever to me is where the handbrake cables meet the the drum backplates (i.e. at the wheel end of the cables). They could really do with a slightly larger version of the little rubber bellows there to stop road grime getting in. Anybody know where I might get some?
The other bit that doesn't look too clever to me is where the handbrake cables meet the the drum backplates (i.e. at the wheel end of the cables). They could really do with a slightly larger version of the little rubber bellows there to stop road grime getting in. Anybody know where I might get some?