Grande Punto Ice Install

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Grande Punto Ice Install

MIKEY_PHATBASS

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Hi peeps, desperately need help, got an 08 reg grande punto active.

Wanting to install pre amped box and poss new head unit,
things i need to know -

Does the standard stereo have any pre out's?
if not and i change it, can i still connect the steering wheel remote to the new stereo.

Where's the best place or best way to get the live cable from the amp to the battery...

Best way to take original stereo out without scratching the fascia etc...

and also (yes im in need) tidiest place to put the cables, as i want to do the best job i can with this so as not to make it look messy.

Thanks Guys

look forward to ur responses.

Mike
 
There are a few ways of connecting a Aftermarket HU in the car im not an expert on the GP but have a search on this and the GP section.
Also there are ways of connecting preouts onto the standard HU do a search also on this there should be plenty of Info.

The best way on most cars to run the wires through is to run them under the door sill they are normally very easy to get off just a few poppers and the cars standard wiring will have room for your extras to go through.
Run the power cable through the passenger side and the Signal cables whatever you use behind the speedo and down the drivers side door sills so as to minimise feedback from the power.
 
if your gonna put a decent-ish system in, also fit dynamat cos they rattle like a bitch!
 
if not and i change it, can i still connect the steering wheel remote to the new stereo.
it depends which headunit you fit. you need to buy the steering adapter for your car and also the headunit adapter for the headunit you buy. connect them both together and job done. before you buy a headunit you should check the adapter is available.
 
if your gonna put a decent-ish system in, also fit dynamat cos they rattle like a bitch!

Really are you sure that it isnt the locking mechanism. I only ask out of interest as surely you only dynamat the area behind the speaker and i cant see that stopping all of the rattling of all of the other parts.
But if it is very rattly anywhere else then a cheaper foam padding wold be best. That is what i used in the boot door lining.
 
Really are you sure that it isnt the locking mechanism. I only ask out of interest as surely you only dynamat the area behind the speaker and i cant see that stopping all of the rattling of all of the other parts.
But if it is very rattly anywhere else then a cheaper foam padding wold be best. That is what i used in the boot door lining.

before i had dynamat the boot lid, boot floor, boot rear, roof center and front and the door cards used to rattle badly!!
 
So it is not the Dynamat that is stopping the Vibration. Sorry to be a pain about this but people might start spending £100's on dynamating the whole inside of the car to stop the rattles from the 200w JBL subs. When really dynamat apart from around the area's of Mid range speakers is a load of **** in my opinion. Unless you are spending thousands and thousands on ICE and really really know how to set it up is a complete waste of time and money.
 
I disagree, using good soundproofing can in effect do the same for volume and clarity as doubling the amplifier power. Also at speed, for example on the motorway, the quality is lost as the bass is drowned out by the road noise, soundproofing also helps to eliviate this problem. Even JBL 200 watt subs will sound much better installed properly with good soundproofing.
 
I disagree, using good soundproofing can in effect do the same for volume and clarity as doubling the amplifier power. Also at speed, for example on the motorway, the quality is lost as the bass is drowned out by the road noise, soundproofing also helps to eliviate this problem. Even JBL 200 watt subs will sound much better installed properly with good soundproofing.

I am not saying that i am correct at all but to soundproof a car properly you are looking at spending around the £300 mark in reality.
I have an Induction Kit and relatively loud exhaust but my ICE completely drowns this out. I cant hear a thing. Money is best off spent on buying higher quality goods building the right enclosures and dealing with rattles. Once you have done all of this then that is the time to start thinking about excessive sound deadening.
 
Mate trust me, it does make a huge difference ;)

I wondered how long it would take you to see this LOL
Yes it will do on a set up like yours(y)
My thought is that you are better off spending the money on a better set up if you are at the budget end of the market like us mere Mortals.
 
dynamat apart from around the area's of Mid range speakers is a load of **** in my opinion.
i agree. its just a con designed to give ICE junkies something else to waste some cash on.

i've fitted dynamat to loads of people's cars, and never once have i been able to hear the difference.

the dynamat debate has been going on for years. it has lovers and haters but few people inbetween.
 
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How can you not hear a difference?

When I had my doors done still with the factory setup the improvement was like night and day.

I dont think that anybody is doubting its ability to improve resonance of mid range speakers. This is because the sound is more slight than bass so the dynamat allows the mid bass speaker perform at its natural frequency.
Bass on the other hand would surely need something with resonant qualities of concrete to stop the sound waves from penetrating into the body work.

It may make a difference to Pauls system as he is using lower wattage but higher SQ so the slighter vibrations will be easier to stop. Because of the systems high SQ it will be more noticeable if it reaches its natural frequency.

My system using a 15" sub and higher wattage's would make the above very difficult even with ‘specially designed’ resonant damping materials (if that is the correct term)

Also this would be very hard in the cheaper systems like JBL where distortion is an issue as the systems natural frequency is wrong in the first instance.

I do not know this is the Gospal truth but this is how i understand it and i think that i may have an understanding of things that i have given the wrong name but im sure you get my drift.
 
Look at the world's loudest cars (whether it's bassrace, streetbass or SPL).

Look at the world's best sounding cars.

Sound deadening and installation is crucial to both.
 
I totally agree! If you have any interest in having a decent sounding or loud system in your car, I would recommend adding in some of your budget for soundproofing first. If you don't want to spend hundreds on a top brand, use flashing tape, but at least make an effort! Bass is the hardest frequency range to get in a car because it is competing with engine, road and tyre noise. Anything you can do to help is a good thing to do in my opinion. Without soundproofing, what sounds good parked up without the engine running sounds average at best at 70 on the motorway, even without a loud exhaust.
 
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