Technical  Glow plug change

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Technical  Glow plug change

ChrisClarke33

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Hi all. I have a 2011 Ducati 3:0L minibus. It doesn’t start all that well, particularly first thing. If you miss the first go it take several more attempts and also when it’s warm. It seems to always start but not as well as I’d expect. I thinking glow plug change. Anyone changed plugs before and has it made a difference? Easy to do? Many thanks in advance.
Chris
 
I need to change a glow plug but haven't got round to it. If you're doing this yourself you have to make sure you dont snap the glow plug or getting it out will be a nightmare.
Thanks Anthony. Do they snap just because they are pretty set in there? Would you squirt WD40 or something similar beforehand ?
 
Thanks Anthony. Do they snap just because they are pretty set in there? Would you squirt WD40 or something similar beforehand ?

Yes, and they're relatively delicate. Here is a guide for a Fiat 500X. Be very careful, or you may be drilling a broken glow plug out and retapping the thread!


IMG_20260209_161707.jpg
 
Hi

The glow plugs used on the Ducato are long, small in diameter and thin walled. Once they have been in place for a few years it is very common for the torque needed to remove them to exceed their breaking strength. Result, snapped off plugs and a world of pain involving specialist drilling operations to extract the remains. On top of that, their location demands a fair bit of dismantling just to gain access. Nowhere near as straighforward as changing a set of spark plugs. I would only entrust this job to a workshop who had successfully done this exact job before. They will need skill, patience and good quality penetrating spray (there are much better formulas than WD-40).

I would want to be very certain that there were at least two failed plugs before embarking on replacement. Plugs can be tested in-situ. A very basic test is to use a test meter, the plugs should read about one ohm each when cold. However, this won't detect faults when hot. A workshop test with a dedicated glow plug tester is better, as they are run up to full temperature ( One glow plug draws 10 to 20 Amps, i.e. quite a whack of current )

From your description, unless you are dealing with very cold weather it doesn't seem to me to be a glow plug issue. When you crank a healthy diesel engine quickly enough, the compression of the air as the piston rises considerably raises its temperature. At the same time, heat is lost into the cold metal of the cylinder walls and head. If these are too cold, the peak air temperature may just not be enough to ignite the fuel when it's injected. That's where glow plugs help, by adding 100 Watts or so of extra heat directly into the chamber. Once the weather warms up, or the engine has already been running, glow plugs are not needed to start.

I think the first thing I would check is that the engine is cranking over quickly enough, it should sound quite vigorous. For this you need a healthy starter battery with a good state of charge. In addition you need good connections in the entire starter circuit, from the battery to the starter motor and back through the earth connections to the battery. The earth connection is from starter motor to engine block via bolts, then from engine to body via a flexible earth strap, and finally from body to battery negative. Check all of these, and if the engine to body strap is more than 5 years old throw it away and fit a new one, they can't be cleaned internally. It goes without saying that the starter motor must be free of faults.

If you still have problems despite a vigorous cranking speed, it's time to look at fuelling or possibly loss of cylinder compression if it's a high mileage engine.
 
Hi all. I have a 2011 Ducati 3:0L minibus. It doesn’t start all that well, particularly first thing. If you miss the first go it take several more attempts and also when it’s warm. It seems to always start but not as well as I’d expect. I thinking glow plug change. Anyone changed plugs before and has it made a difference? Easy to do? Many thanks in advance.
Chris
View attachment 481284
 
They break easily but can be removed after with the right tools, these are out of my 2.3 Multijet, The 2 that came out complete squeeked all the way out, they had all been soaked with penetrating oil for a week beforehand..... Good Luck
Glowplugs.jpg
 
Not sure I am away from home until Thursday, I can look at it then, I will have a quick look on the www to see if I can find it and get back to you
This looks like the same tool kit ...https://www.amazon.fr/DAYUAN-doutils-retrait-pr%C3%A9chauffage-endommag%C3%A9e/dp/B075FRBRF7/ref=asc_df_B075FRBRF7?mcid=51e53362d15f3b95bd54b28115d5a598&tag=googshopfr-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=701535511849&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8349113916767063257&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006427&hvtargid=pla-465704839161&psc=1&hvocijid=8349113916767063257-B075FRBRF7-&hvexpln=0
 
Ahh, well if needs must.

It looks like you drill into the top of the broken glow plug, then put some kind of adapter in there, and pull it out? Or does it then turn with the therad?
When it has snapped there is a hole down the middle or if the electrode is still sticking out it needs twisting until it comes out of the hole, Then there is a special drill that is small at the end and tapping drill size for the threads further up, drill into the plug upto depth of threads, Then there is a tap and a long tap wrench , you cut a thread in the hole and screw in an extractor from the kit and pull it out.Dont rush the job, When cutting the thread put plenty of grease on the tap and the swarf will stick to it,
 
Hi

The glow plugs used on the Ducato are long, small in diameter and thin walled. Once they have been in place for a few years it is very common for the torque needed to remove them to exceed their breaking strength. Result, snapped off plugs and a world of pain involving specialist drilling operations to extract the remains. On top of that, their location demands a fair bit of dismantling just to gain access. Nowhere near as straighforward as changing a set of spark plugs. I would only entrust this job to a workshop who had successfully done this exact job before. They will need skill, patience and good quality penetrating spray (there are much better formulas than WD-40).

I would want to be very certain that there were at least two failed plugs before embarking on replacement. Plugs can be tested in-situ. A very basic test is to use a test meter, the plugs should read about one ohm each when cold. However, this won't detect faults when hot. A workshop test with a dedicated glow plug tester is better, as they are run up to full temperature ( One glow plug draws 10 to 20 Amps, i.e. quite a whack of current )

From your description, unless you are dealing with very cold weather it doesn't seem to me to be a glow plug issue. When you crank a healthy diesel engine quickly enough, the compression of the air as the piston rises considerably raises its temperature. At the same time, heat is lost into the cold metal of the cylinder walls and head. If these are too cold, the peak air temperature may just not be enough to ignite the fuel when it's injected. That's where glow plugs help, by adding 100 Watts or so of extra heat directly into the chamber. Once the weather warms up, or the engine has already been running, glow plugs are not needed to start.

I think the first thing I would check is that the engine is cranking over quickly enough, it should sound quite vigorous. For this you need a healthy starter battery with a good state of charge. In addition you need good connections in the entire starter circuit, from the battery to the starter motor and back through the earth connections to the battery. The earth connection is from starter motor to engine block via bolts, then from engine to body via a flexible earth strap, and finally from body to battery negative. Check all of these, and if the engine to body strap is more than 5 years old throw it away and fit a new one, they can't be cleaned internally. It goes without saying that the starter motor must be free of faults.

If you still have problems despite a vigorous cranking speed, it's time to look at fuelling or possibly loss of cylinder compression if it's a high mileage engine.
Hi Anthony. Thanks again for your very helpful reply. Actually the van has only covered 30k miles. It doesn’t crack over very quickly first thing, (nothing compared to my work van, Toyota hiace!)
It turns over faster during the day, but it’s just if you miss the first attempt, in other words turn the key back as you think it’s just about to fire up and it doesn’t, then it can take a few attempts and sometimes with the starter motor turning for too long as it kind of splutters into action. So from your reply the glow plugs aren’t needed once warm. Do I’ll proceed and check all of the earth connections you mentioned. The van has been sat for years hence the low miles, so I’ll be sure to replace the earth strap first. I bought a new battery last year.
 
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