Others may have more specific advice , but generally and I assume you are staying with a dynamo and not a higher output alternator, which would probably also require a change in polarity etc., what ever the max. output of the dynamo allow roughly 25% extra on the wiring for a margin and only use automotive wire, the reason is it is usually multiple strands of thin wire which are more resilient to vibration, so less likely to fail? Many dynamos have their rated output written on them and I assume the voltage is the same as the original system. Blowing 6 volt bulbs and starter motor with a 12 volt charging system is probably not a good idea.
I had to google it to find it's 2mm² or depending on where you look could be referred to as 28/0.030 or 14 AWG.Unless it's arc welding leads.In all my working life as a sparky I've never heard of wire specified by it's CCC (current carrying capacity)
I had some 600 amp arc welding long leads and could barely carry them looped over my shoulder.
Unless it's arc welding leads.
I am assuming that is 28 strands of wire and 0.030 of an inch thick? So multi strand to be flexible for automotive use?
Hi, thanks for the quick response, the sold state regulator is for a fiat 500, the output I’ve just found out is current 15- 22amps, with a regulated output of 13.5-14.4 volts. I have raided my 126 bin and found cable for an alternator. I have used this as a temporary fix to check all is working. If OK I’ll order the correct cable.Others may have more specific advice , but generally and I assume you are staying with a dynamo and not a higher output alternator, which would probably also require a change in polarity etc., what ever the max. output of the dynamo allow roughly 25% extra on the wiring for a margin and only use automotive wire, the reason is it is usually multiple strands of thin wire which are more resilient to vibration, so less likely to fail? Many dynamos have their rated output written on them and I assume the voltage is the same as the original system. Blowing 6 volt bulbs and starter motor with a 12 volt charging system is probably not a good idea.
For example household wire would easily stand the amperage but a few times working the cable back and forth will break it, which the correct automotive wire will stand.
Also keep the wire well supported and not to tight so you allow for engine movement.
I assume the solid state regulator is of sufficient capacity and quality to do the job.
It sounds like the answer, when I trained back in 1969 we used to be taught how to correctly service and adjust most regulator with the coils and contacts.
I assume the original Fiat 500 engine was also 12 volt electrics as the old ones were only 6 Volt. You may find 14.4 volts is a bit of a shock to the system if it has been running a dynamo on a basic regulator. generally from memory 13. volts was about their normal setting.
The solid state regulator is set for a constant output of 14.4 volts at I believe 2000 rpm. The engine was running sweet as a nut a couple of days ago but wouldn’t start and was spluttering and banging. Removed the air hose to find fuel dripping from the air inlet so I will need to investigate this. This car is fighting all the way. I have a rather rotten 72 500 and a rotten 126 sitting in the garden both 12 volt. I need to have them removed.I assume the original Fiat 500 engine was also 12 volt electrics as the old ones were only 6 Volt. You may find 14.4 volts is a bit of a shock to the system if it has been running a dynamo on a basic regulator. generally from memory 13. volts was about their normal setting.
Float needle jet stuck or dirty?
That’s why I can’t move in my garage, full to the gunnelsFloat needle jet stuck or dirty?
I am sure if you listed them on Forum the spares would be valuable for another Member.
Trouble is over the years I always find when I get rid of something , then the next day I find a use for it.
I have stripped the carb twice now and the valve seems to be working whe I blow through the fuel pipe and the float doesn’t have a hole. Also check the height of the float at open and at closed all fine. Could be the mechanical pump is pumping too high. At my wits end just now. May just stick the carb off the old engine to see if it works although the jetting will be off.
