Just a couple of observations.Good Morning. I recently changed gearbox oil for the first time. I use a push button that is used for outboard oil. Very comfortable. 1.5 liters went in until it came out. Leveled car.
Well blow me, I think that's the dirtiest transmission oil I've ever seen!
Do you still have it in that container? If it was mine I'd be "frightening" myself by carefully having a look through it for "solids". Usually discolouration in transmission oil caused by normal operation is due to minute dusty particles caused by wear to synchro rings. This usually imparts a "pearly" look to the fluid. Yours looks much darker, almost as if the oil had got far too hot and become burnt? It's difficult to get any sense of scale from your picture so was there plenty of oil in the box or was it quite low? If the level was substantially lower than it should be that might account for it as some components might be getting marginal lube and so getting too hot and the lesser quantity of oil would then find it difficult to disperse the heat.
We need more info on your vehicle to give informed advice. What model, engine, year of manufacture, etc. As far as viscosity is concerned I'd be very surprised if using a 75w85 instead of a 75w90 had any noticeable effect.Goodevening all,
Can anyone tell me if the whining noise from my transmission is a symptom of too thin oil? There should be a SAE 75W90 EP GL5 oil in there and I put this one in.
Thank you all in advance!
Dear PuggIt,We need more info on your vehicle to give informed advice. What model, engine, year of manufacture, etc. As far as viscosity is concerned I'd be very surprised if using a 75w85 instead of a 75w90 had any noticeable effect.
There have been many posts, and arguments, on the forum concerning lubricants for both engines and transmissions. We run a 2010 Panda with the 1.2 FIRE engine. Both the engine and gearbox in this are pretty basic so as long as you are using an oil of the correct viscosity you are unlikely to have problems. Not so long ago there was a big, and well founded, scare about using an API GL5 spec oil in a transmission where GL4 was recommended. The problem was that the GL5 contained an aggressive additive package - which had many advantages for transmissions which could handle it but which caused accelerated wear on soft, some call them "yellow", metals. So stuff like synchro rings, bronze bushings and certain selector forks. It could do serious and irreversible damage to transmissions which couldn't tolerate it. - I believe that now these additives have been modified &/or changed so this is not now such a problem - but it would worry me that I might get some of the older stock? I'm a bit obsessed with lubricants so I always buy oils which comply with the relevant FIAT spec. So for our Panda it's FIAT 9.55535-S2 in the engine and 9.55550-MX3 for the gearbox. So, as I've used FUCHS engine oils for many years, I use their Titan GT1 5W40 which they rate to the Fiat spec and Tutela Technyx - which I buy from S4p and which is the oil Fiat put in it at original fill, This add shows the oil spec: https://www.auto-ricambi.eu/transmission-oil-tutela-technyx-75w85-p15349/
I am sure that these older vehicles with their simpler mechanicals will probably tolerate more "general" spec oils but I wouldn't take such liberties with a modern spec vehicle. For instance my newer Ibiza has one of these small highly stressed turbo petrol engines and I would always use an oil which exactly meets the VAG spec as this type of engine puts a lot of stress on it's oil. So I use Fuchs Titan GT1 Pro C3 5w-30 which meets the higher VW 504 spec (502 is also acceptable, but a lower spec) The 504 spec is suitable for "extended interval servicing" but I change it every year - no extended service intervals for me! When the time comes to change the transmission oil - which I do on all the cars in the "family fleet" at around the 50.000 mile mark - I will be using actual VW branded product. Why? because I'm told this box is known to be intolerant of inferior oils and can suffer failure of the caset'd bearing assembly on the end of the main and layshafts and also there is a small needle roller bearing which can overheat and destroy itself, especially if the oil level drops. Consequently I check the oil level every service and keep an eye on drive shaft seals etc. I'm told that the genuine VW oil contains additives which are not present in aftermarket oils specifically to address this? Who knows if that's the case but as there's not a lot of oil involved and I'll probably only be doing it once in the time I own the car I don't think it's worth cutting corners just to save a "couple of bob"!
Hello again. Just for your info, it's puggLt - with an L. (means Old, worn out, exhausted, etc) not that I'm "sensitive" about it so no worries. Yes, earlier versions had a straight tube axle mounted on leaf springs (The SEAT Marbella was one car I worked on which used this axle although I've never seen the setup on an actual Fiat !) Felicity did indeed have the tube axle which was bent in a big "U" shape with a large rubber mount under the back seat and coil springs. I remember being "terrified" to read, in the Haynes manual, that if that big central rubber mount was worn then the whole axle had to be replaced! Luckily mine never gave any trouble so I didn't have to investigate whether a repair was possible. - Phew!Goodday Puggit,
Lovely car, your little Felicity, you mean the Omega rear axle which is just a round steel tube bent too shape and pivots right in the middle underneeth the car? I thought it was a solid axle and the car was also used in rally racing?
Well, my plans with my rear axle are too completely demount it, take it all apart, put new trailingarm bushes in it since the old one’s are toast and are already knocking, get it sandblasted and then put a nice layer of 2 component paint on it, so it won’t rust again, then there’s going another glob of paint on it, followed by tectyl a sort of rubberish layer which prevents paint from chipping of due too getting hit by little bits of broken off asphalt.
Hope too hear from you soon!
goodday PuggLt,Hello again. Just for your info, it's puggLt - with an L. (means Old, worn out, exhausted, etc) not that I'm "sensitive" about it so no worries. Yes, earlier versions had a straight tube axle mounted on leaf springs (The SEAT Marbella was one car I worked on which used this axle although I've never seen the setup on an actual Fiat !) Felicity did indeed have the tube axle which was bent in a big "U" shape with a large rubber mount under the back seat and coil springs. I remember being "terrified" to read, in the Haynes manual, that if that big central rubber mount was worn then the whole axle had to be replaced! Luckily mine never gave any trouble so I didn't have to investigate whether a repair was possible. - Phew!
Regarding your rear axle refurb. Someone - sorry I forget who - has mentioned here on our forum about getting rear axles Zinc sprayed. Sounds like a good process and not to terribly expensive (I think he talked about somewhere around £80?) Maybe he'll see this and comment?
I'm off now to the library to hand books back before I get fined so I'll not look back on here 'till this evening - don't have a smart phone so do all this on my laptop.
Oh well, forgot it's a bank holiday isn't it! So library not open! Never mind, went round the long way by the weir and turned it into a nice walk. Now the sun is shining and I'm going to sit in my garden with a cup of tea and a Bakewell tart!I'm off now to the library to hand books back before I get fined so I'll not look back on here 'till this evening - don't have a smart phone so do all this on my laptop.
Yes, you are talking about hot dip galvanizing there. I believe this chap discovered a metal spraying procedure so rather different?goodday PuggLt,
Oh, oops, I’m very sorry, a regular L and a capital I look quite a lot like each other, if you know what I mean!
I have heard about galvanizing steel, but this isn’t always possible, the product has to be free of airpockets, because galvanizing steel happens at high temperature, if air is trapped inside for example a steel tube, the tube can explode due to the air wanting to expand but not being able too. And since the sides of the rear suspension crossmember from the Fiat Seicento are closed, there will be air inside which can’t expand… this will be a deathtrap from the top shelf.
Kind regards!