General Garage Heating

Currently reading:
General Garage Heating

I go for the all round air circulation with the Prototypi's.....
as my cars are stored in a garage without a roof... they get good air circulation...
a quick jetwash of the moss bit of tcut and wax polish and ready for the next drive...

:slayer: lasted this long lol....
 
I go for the all round air circulation with the Prototypi's.....
as my cars are stored in a garage without a roof... they get good air circulation...
a quick jetwash of the moss bit of tcut and wax polish and ready for the next drive...

:slayer: lasted this long lol....
Similar solution in my garage; it's made of timber with gaps in between the slats. The doors don't fit at the edges and the floor is gravel. It has a corrugated roof and I didn't fill the gaps at the eaves. And then I go and spoil it all by driving in the winter.
 
And then I go and spoil it all by driving in the winter.
That has a certain ring to it... you could write a song with a line like that....
Must try that driving in winter....
I think Prototipi's must be made of stronger stuff, even the Jolly is not in a garage.... but then there is less to rust away...
 
I agree with the gentle ventilation idea.

I've heard of people using the type of extractor/vent used on e.g. pet ambulances or on top of chimneys, the ones which are turned by the wind - no power required.

I've tried a de-humidifier, as Peter Pick-Up has said, might not work in cold conditions. Afaik there's a couple of different operating types - mine uses 'The Peltier Effect'?, stops working below about 6 degrees C. and uses quite a lot of electricity if run 24/7. Could always run it from a timer, I suppose to reduce costs.You'll need to run a drain tube out through the wall or door, as the water tank can fill up surprisingly quickly under some conditions, and if full, will switch off the dehumidifier. Any air leaks into the garage will reduce it's effectiveness and opening a door, even briefly, will undo it's good work.

For the interior of the car, it's vital to prevent dampness from causing mould growth. I'd suggest some of those trays containing calcium carbonate?? that absorb moisture and can be dried out in an oven or microwave?. I've successfully used a few sheets of newspaper covering the seats and carpets to absorb moisture, but you'd need to check them often in case they're becoming damp and need changing.

My garage has insulated walls and roof :)- the condensation occurs on the un-insulated concrete floor!! :cry: (Builder told me I didn't need underfloor insulation, just a damp proof membrane :bang: ).

My house needs a new central heating oil burner, was thinking of getting one of the newer condenser boilers for efficiency and re-locating it to the garage, thinking I'd be then heating the garage for free :). Heating Engineer said the new condenser boilers come in their own insulated metal housing and would provide little to no heat for the garage as they give off very little heat.

Might have to install a couple of radiators in the garage.... :D

AL.
 
I agree with the gentle ventilation idea.

I've heard of people using the type of extractor/vent used on e.g. pet ambulances or on top of chimneys, the ones which are turned by the wind - no power required.

I've tried a de-humidifier, as Peter Pick-Up has said, might not work in cold conditions. Afaik there's a couple of different operating types - mine uses 'The Peltier Effect'?, stops working below about 6 degrees C. and uses quite a lot of electricity if run 24/7. Could always run it from a timer, I suppose to reduce costs.You'll need to run a drain tube out through the wall or door, as the water tank can fill up surprisingly quickly under some conditions, and if full, will switch off the dehumidifier. Any air leaks into the garage will reduce it's effectiveness and opening a door, even briefly, will undo it's good work.

For the interior of the car, it's vital to prevent dampness from causing mould growth. I'd suggest some of those trays containing calcium carbonate?? that absorb moisture and can be dried out in an oven or microwave?. I've successfully used a few sheets of newspaper covering the seats and carpets to absorb moisture, but you'd need to check them often in case they're becoming damp and need changing.

My garage has insulated walls and roof :)- the condensation occurs on the un-insulated concrete floor!! :cry: (Builder told me I didn't need underfloor insulation, just a damp proof membrane :bang: ).

My house needs a new central heating oil burner, was thinking of getting one of the newer condenser boilers for efficiency and re-locating it to the garage, thinking I'd be then heating the garage for free :). Heating Engineer said the new condenser boilers come in their own insulated metal housing and would provide little to no heat for the garage as they give off very little heat.

Might have to install a couple of radiators in the garage.... :D

AL.


Hi,
Peltier type dehumidifiers have low capacity and are not very efficient. Like all types they put out heat so Watt for Watt a dehumidifier is better than a heater.
The cheap chemical dehumidifiers are Calcium chloride not carbonate. They should never be used near anything that can corrode. All chloride salts are corrosive and these dehumidifiers can give off corrosive fumes as the temperature rises. They cannot be re-activated in an oven. Silica Gel is much better and can be re-activated in an oven but that takes electricity too. It is quite expensive. You would need at least 4 500g packs for the interior of a 500.


Robert G8RPI.
 
Hi Robert,

Thanks for the additional info (y) and correction. :eek:

It's never my intention to spread incorrect/possibly damaging info, :cry:
I'm simply trying to help by throwing out some ideas for others to consider and maybe check into further.:)

Regards,

AL.
 
Back
Top