Technical Front wheel bearings

Currently reading:
Technical Front wheel bearings

smart51

Established member
Joined
Oct 1, 2015
Messages
525
Points
211
Location
Birmingham
I've had wheel bearing noise the last couple of times I've been out in the car, and today I jacked up the car and wobbled the wheels. Another job to do. I was surprised after taking off the hub nuts, both drums just came off. And I mean I didn't have to pull them, they just slid off. The bearings just push on to the stub axle and while there's no play, its probably just the grease filling up the gap. Is this normal? I would expect to have to use a puller to get them off.
 
I've had wheel bearing noise the last couple of times I've been out in the car, and today I jacked up the car and wobbled the wheels. Another job to do. I was surprised after taking off the hub nuts, both drums just came off. And I mean I didn't have to pull them, they just slid off. The bearings just push on to the stub axle and while there's no play, its probably just the grease filling up the gap. Is this normal? I would expect to have to use a puller to get them off.
In general most older vehicles with taper bearings just slide off the shaft, so as long as no wear on shaft should be OK.
You normally still have to tap out the outer rings in the brake drums, then reassemble correctly with new seals and high melting point wheel bearing grease, though don't overfill as can leak onto brakes.
Others can give model specific advice, but usually refit correctly and lightly tighten the hub nut, then back off a little until barely noticeable rock at the wheel, then secure with split pin or what ever is used.
If over tightened the bearings will fail!
 
Last edited:
In general most older vehicles with taper bearings just slide off the shaft, so as long as no wear on shaft should be OK.
You normally still have to tap out the outer rings in the brake drums, then reassemble correctly with new seals and high melting point wheel bearing grease, though don't overfill as can leak onto brakes.
Others can give model specific advice, but usually refit correctly and lightly tighten the hub nut, then back off a little until barely noticeable rock at the wheel, then secure with split pin or what ever is used.
If over tightened the bearings will fail!
@bugsymike is spot-on with that; it applies completely to front wheel bearings on the 500. You really need to use a new nut each time you do this as it is secured by punching the outer flange into an indent on the axle. It uses a left-hand thread on the offside, which is identified by having a notched nut.
 
The new bearings came today and were straight forward to fit. The new bearings are tight on the stub axle and don't pull off with finger pressure, so I'm happy all is OK.
 
It's coming up to a year since I fitted new front wheel bearings. What is the service interval on regreasing them? Is it something that should be done annually?

Edit to say, as I was inspecting the brakes anyway, I thought I'd might as well regrease the bearings. The state of the grease was so good, they clearly didn't need it but there's no harm in doing it anyway.
 
Last edited:
Robert Prokschi deals with the Puch versions of the 500, but many aspects of these cars are identical to the Italian model. I have watched several useful videos from him in the past. They are always very detailed and deal with apparently straightforward tasks or mechnical arrangements.

In this short video that can have English subtitles, he shows the correct way to get front bearings adjusted; there's even the bonus appearance of the special tool made for securing the nut to the axle.

 
Back
Top