Technical Flashing Check Engine Light

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Technical Flashing Check Engine Light

Acr85

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Joined
Jul 30, 2024
Messages
11
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Location
Glasgow
Some advice. Check engine light came on end if July. Garage changed Camshaft sensor, out of the garage less than 24 hours and check engine comes back on comes back on, garage replace the camshaft solenoid actuator with a salvage part. Car seems to drive fine for around 100 miles for a few days and the light comes back on again. Unable to return it to the garage I first used as I was only visiting there, so take it to a new garage, they replace a timing belt kit and a valve. Car has driven fine past week but today when I was on the motorway, the check engine light came on but unlike previous times it was flashing rather than static. Pulled over, turned off and then started again, initially no light but came back on after a few miles at 70mph it starts flashing. At this stage car is struggling to go above 40mph or accelerate. Pull over again, turned off, turn back on and light has remained off since. Have now driven around 60 miles and no light but not driven above 60 as really anxious about it coming back on.
As there is no warning light on at moment no diagnostic codes are coming up.

Want to return to garage as clearly not fixed but unsure if they can do much without those codes or what to ask them to do.

My only thought is that the crankshaft sensor has not been replaced yet but would that have caused the light to flash?

is this a whole other bunch of problems now needing fixed?

Running out of patience and funds with it after 6+weeks and not being able to rely on it.

If anyone has any suggestions or anything similar has happened would love to hear.

Cheers
 
Model
Fiat Punto
Year
2016
Mileage
38500
Repost the above on the thread you already started on this problem rather than starting a new thread.
 
The problem is different though from the original post. Thanks for the advice though

It is very likely to be connected plus there is info on your other thread regarding car details that you haven't put on this new thread.
 
Lots of people with the 1.2 engine have the problems you have following timing belt change .
A phonic wheel learn should be carried out .
 
Not true! Phonic wheel has nothing to do with power and errors.
What are (were initially) the fault codes? Some are about VVT, some about timing (belt itself, improperly installed).
What kind of incompetent garage can't handle a simple car (how do they fix anything more complicated, V6, V8 etc.)?
Quote: "they replace a timing belt kit and a valve" - what valve? Replacing a valve = head gasket job.
So... You're a perfect match (You and The Garage). Pay attention to details. Story doesn't add up.
Professional "garage" in 21st Century should have oscilloscope and check the signals, not just swap the sensor.
https://rotkee.com/en/waveform-library?brand=169
 
Not true! Phonic wheel has nothing to do with power and errors.
What are (were initially) the fault codes? Some are about VVT, some about timing (belt itself, improperly installed).
What kind of incompetent garage can't handle a simple car (how do they fix anything more complicated, V6, V8 etc.)?
Quote: "they replace a timing belt kit and a valve" - what valve? Replacing a valve = head gasket job.
So... You're a perfect match (You and The Garage). Pay attention to details. Story doesn't add up.
Professional "garage" in 21st Century should have oscilloscope and check the signals, not just swap the sensor.
https://rotkee.com/en/waveform-library?brand=169
There is no need to be rude.
As stated I took it to one garage and the fault codes they found ( they didn't tell me what they were) suggested a number of errors. They went for the cheapest option initially which was replacing the camshaft sensor. When the light came on a second time I bought a diagnostic computer from euro carparts and the codes were as follows.
P0011 01/04
P0016 02/04
P0011 P 03/04
P0016 p 04/04

Took it back to the garage. They replaced the camshaft solenoid actuator from a salvage part and didn cahrge me

As stated it seem to run fine for the next 100 miles. As I was visiting people, the garage I used initially was not my local place and so I couldn't return there when the light came on again.
The same codes came back with this light.

My local garage unable to fit us in recommended a place who initially said it was the timing belt and they replaced it. I was charged £300 for labour and a replacement timing belt kit. A day later they stated the light was still coming on and then replaceed another part according to the codes, they did not tell us what they were, I beliewaste part was a valve but was apparently the next thing to change in the list of potential problems the diaggnostics listed. This repair cost a further £100. The garage that carried out these repairs dealt with my partner, so apologies that I was not more specific in stating what they did, however my partner was checking the changes they made and saw the replacement parts when he went to pick up the car and seemed to think the job had been done well enough. The issue is it is a cash in hand place and I never got an invoice. My partner is away working this week so I would need to check with him the specifics.

When we picked up the car it did seem like there was a slight noise when the car was idling but we were wanting to let it run to see how it went first. I am having to go back and forth to hospital a lot for treatment so need a car that isn't in and out the garage and not reliable but at the cars age the trade in, isn't great especially with ongoing issues, so unless you are actually going to provide some suggestions or advice your smart arse comments about how I deserve the garage are really not helpful. The two garages I have used have both been recommended to me by long standing mechanics
 
Ah the phonic wheel relearn may not be applicable to your 2016 punto because ......my memory re: phonic wheel relearn was for earlier mk2 punto. No harm in giving it a try though.
 
common cause of flashing mil after a belt change on 1.2 vvt is incorrect procedure changing belt ie not using the specific crank and cam locking tools and loosening and then retightening the cam sprocket (locking tools in place , belt tension correct)
Lots of people and garages have problems with this.
 
Okay another week another chance for my check engine light to do its flashy dance.
To recap: had a static check engine light come on. Garage1 replace camshaft sensor. Light went off for around 24 hours then back on, garage 1 replaced camshaft solenoid actuator. This repairs lasts around 60-70 miles (ie my journey back home) and the light comes back on. Cannot return to Garage 1 so take to new garage, garage 2.

Garage 2 inform me it is the timing belt and need to replace it and the water valve. £400 lighter. All seemed fine for just over a week and maybe 50 miles max until I go to drive the car at speed along the motorway, get up to just above 70mph and the check engine light starts flashing, car has very little power. Turn off car and the light stays off until I try to go above 70mph. Turn off and drive the rest of the way not going beyond 60mph and light stays off for a good few days until I get to garage. Garage2 tell me this time it is a whole new bunch of faults causing the problem and my spark plugs, HT leads, o2 sensor need replaced. The oil sump needs replaced. The oil sump and then oil replacement I didn't question as it was on my list of jobs needing done but the spark plugs and HT leads I question because they and the ignition coil all got replaced in Oct 2023 and i have driven maybe maz 4000 miles in that time. This time sorting all that I am £540 lighter. Today driving on motorway and the same issue happens when I get above 70mph, check engine lights start flashing. Check the error codes and they are for
Random/multiple cylinder misfire
Cylinder 2 misfire detected
o2 sensor circuit malfunction bank1 sensor 2

Turn off car and drive at 60 and the lights don't come on but definitely notice a difference in how the car is handling. Car seems to make a whirring noise when idling or when coming up to the bite in 1st gear. I feel like I have no real power in 2nd or 3rd with out the rpm going up to 30/ 40 x100rpm. Only get up to 30mph at 4th gear before my car is prompting me to go into 5th. Anything above that and the light comes on flashing.

Obviously taking the car back to Garage 2 but really not trusting this garage anymore. Based on the info above, any suggestions about what else it could potentially be and am I likely to be charged for further issues or are the issues I'm facing a result of garage 2 not doing the first two sets of repairs properly.

What else could be the problem? I would take to another garage but running low in cash now having parted with almost £1k in the past 5 weeks trying to get to the bottom of this and I want them to fix a job they haven't done right if that is the issue.
 
Update can anyone please advise. Garage has had car for 10 days and have finally got intouch to tell me their previous repairs were fine and that now they think a fuel injector needs replaced as they put a camera down and saw some fuel collection in the cylinder. Is this a common fault in a fiat after 38000 miles? He has also said that fixing this might not sort the problem. At my wits end now, what else could be causing this issue? Do I get the repair done or should I try a cheaper solution like putting an additive in with the fuel and see if it cleans the injectors and that improves things.
 


With engine up to normal temperature and engine light flashing.
rev up to 6000 rpm for couple of seconds , let revs drop to idle for couple of seconds , repeat twice more.
Fingers xed engine light stops flashing and car drives normally again.
In video Ignor use of laptop computer I'm hoping if engine light flashing you can do the procedure.
 
My daughter has got a similar issue, after having a new timing belt, water pump, and full service with new plugs. Engine light came on a day or two after having the work done.
Went back to the garage and they scanned it, and it came up with "intermittent missfire cylinder 2" but the car isn't missing, it's running lovely. They suggested it might be a coil pack or lead that had gone bad, so I bought a new Lucas coil pack set and a code reader, and fitted it myself, done a scan and the same error code came up.
Only today I'm learning about this phonic wheel reset procedure, and obviously the garage are not aware of it either.
So could I do a non multieuscan reset or would I need to get it done properly ( I don't own a laptop unfortunately)
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
TIA Chris.
 
My daughter has got a similar issue, after having a new timing belt, water pump, and full service with new plugs. Engine light came on a day or two after having the work done.
Went back to the garage and they scanned it, and it came up with "intermittent missfire cylinder 2" but the car isn't missing, it's running lovely. They suggested it might be a coil pack or lead that had gone bad, so I bought a new Lucas coil pack set and a code reader, and fitted it myself, done a scan and the same error code came up.
Only today I'm learning about this phonic wheel reset procedure, and obviously the garage are not aware of it either.
So could I do a non multieuscan reset or would I need to get it done properly ( I don't own a laptop unfortunately)
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
TIA Chris.

Is engine light flashing ?
 
My daughter has got a similar issue, after having a new timing belt, water pump, and full service with new plugs. Engine light came on a day or two after having the work done.
Went back to the garage and they scanned it, and it came up with "intermittent missfire cylinder 2" but the car isn't missing, it's running lovely. They suggested it might be a coil pack or lead that had gone bad, so I bought a new Lucas coil pack set and a code reader, and fitted it myself, done a scan and the same error code came up.
Only today I'm learning about this phonic wheel reset procedure, and obviously the garage are not aware of it either.
So could I do a non multieuscan reset or would I need to get it done properly ( I don't own a laptop unfortunately)
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
TIA Chris.
Very frustrating. In the end I tried adding a fuel additive to see if it would help clean out the furl injector. Did feel that made a slight difference but in the end my ECU seemed to have a fault. The Garage sent it away to be fixed and it seems to be working again so far. Cost another £200 to fix. It also seems like many of the aprts prev garage replaced were unnecessary but live and expensively learn! Strangely enough now seem to have an issue with check stop lights. Bulbs all working fine, no issues with fuses but then light comes on and one stop light seems to stop working so need to check for faulty connections. Hate this bloody car.
 
Is engine light flashing ?
No as it happens, just asked my daughter and she's informed me that it's not on at the moment, it's only come on 3 times since coil pack was fitted.
I've just done a manual phonic reset, disconnected the ECU and battery negative lead for 10 minutes, put them back on then warmed the engine up to temperature for 15 minutes on idle (fan didn't kick in) then done the 3 throttle pushes up to 5000rpm and back to idle, then switched off the engine.
I'll let you guys know the outcome, no engine light on at the moment 🙂 🤞
 
No as it happens, just asked my daughter and she's informed me that it's not on at the moment, it's only come on 3 times since coil pack was fitted.
I've just done a manual phonic reset, disconnected the ECU and battery negative lead for 10 minutes, put them back on then warmed the engine up to temperature for 15 minutes on idle (fan didn't kick in) then done the 3 throttle pushes up to 5000rpm and back to idle, then switched off the engine.
I'll let you guys know the outcome, no engine light on at the moment 🙂 🤞

When it was "on" was it flashing or constant on?
 
So Please read above thread for all the previous issues with this car. Just passed its MOT last week, driving it along motorway this evening nd a static check engine light comes on. We diagnostic computer states the following codes:

P0011 P 02/02
P0011 01/02
It would seem that the problem is the Camshaft position Actuator.
The last garage I had it in seemed to think it was an engine management problem and replaced the ECU in October, it has seemed to drive fine until tonight when the engine flashed this up.

Any thoughts
 
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