Technical Fitting SX Clocks in MK2 1.0 IE

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Technical Fitting SX Clocks in MK2 1.0 IE

Don't forget as well that the FIRE red line is lower (I think) than on the OHC SX 1.3/ 1.4 engine, so don't go revving your engine to death! I recall that the FIRE red line is only about 5800. Not much point in going over 5000 rpm anyway, as the torque peak is way down at 2800 rpm and that's where you want to be most of the time. Gives good low down pull at those revs.


Is that true?

I've usually been shifting up a gear at 4.5-5k rev's, as when that engages, it is back to the start of the sweet spot (that I have found for my car) when I feel I get the most torque.
I generally try to stay around 3-5k revs unless I am just following traffic, in which case it's straight up to 5th, with dropping down to whichever gear I feel will keep me going at the constant speed (not accelerating up hills however, as that drinks your petrol!) when I have to go up hills.

By changing around 2.8k, I feel that it would be up to 5th too quickly to get any acceleration.

Or have I missed something...? :confused:


I'm sure I've seen some graphs or something, in the Haynes manual, but can't find them.
 
Is that true?

I've usually been shifting up a gear at 4.5-5k rev's, as when that engages, it is back to the start of the sweet spot (that I have found for my car) when I feel I get the most torque.
I generally try to stay around 3-5k revs unless I am just following traffic, in which case it's straight up to 5th, with dropping down to whichever gear I feel will keep me going at the constant speed (not accelerating up hills however, as that drinks your petrol!) when I have to go up hills.

By changing around 2.8k, I feel that it would be up to 5th too quickly to get any acceleration.

Or have I missed something...? :confused:

You've missed something ;)

Read what I wrote again and you'll see that I said that when you change up a gear you want the revs to fall back down to around 2800 rpm. NOT change up at 2800 rpm! Max torque is where the engine often runs at its most efficient and most economical too, and 2800 rpm is roughly where the 1.0 litre FIRE produces its peak torque (specs are in the Haynes manual). If you change gear at 6000 rpm then you'll be way over the 2800 rpm torque peak for the next gear, plus you'll be thrashing the engine and revving it into the power and torque graphs tail offs. So whatever gear you are in you should aim to keep the engine spinning around 2800 rpm or so if you want to keep it economical and have access to maximum torque, and you should aim for the revs to drop down to this rpm level when you change up a gear. Which is roughly 4500 - 5000 rpm, dropping you into the sweet spot around 2800 rpm ;)
 
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Hi guys,

Sorry to bring this thread up again!

I managed to get SX dials from Poland cheap, on the downside they were KPH.

I fitted white MPH dials & upgraded all the bulbs to LED`s & added 2x green 25cm SMD strips inside.

I transferred my old speedo into the new pod (so the mileage would be right) & had to fit the KPH speedo face (as the original is about 2cm bigger).

I finally got round to fitting it today & have 3 problems..

1. With the sidelights/headlights on, the fuel gauge over reads by 1/3rd.

2. The indicator warning light is now only working when indicating one way (but they are all working fine outside the car).

3. The main beam tell tail isnt working (it was when tested indoors), & when you flas the lights, the rev counter & fuel gauges `jog`slightly, suggesting an earthing issue. (the main beams do work though)

I didnt have either problem with my old pod!

I checked the connections & earths, all seem fine.

Other than that (& a bit of light bleed round the fuel gauge where the paper isnt on straight!), I like it! (y)

I havent wired in the rev counter yet as its just stared hailing.. Hopefully it works after all this.. lol

Any ideas guys?
 

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Stopped hailing & raining for half an hour, so popped the wiring on, & I can confirm the rev counter does work & seems accurate :slayer:

The other things are still happening though..

Heres it working & the grommet, behind the fuse box, I put the wire through:
 

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Hi ya,

It may just be the camera but the warning lights in the dash look too focused - like they have been replaced by LEDs too :confused: I'd try swapping the bulbs from your old dash and see if you still get more fuel when you turn on the lights :D.

Other than that I'd try earths and also have a look inside the pod at the pcb for caroded paths.
 
Alright Louie,

Cheers for that.

I did swap out all the bulbs with LEDs, I also did one repair on a burnt section of PCB.

Its odd that its only affecting on a few of the circuits though, especially the indicator tell tail only showing on one side.. Strange..

Maybe I should have checked it on the car before stripping it..
 
Where did you get the dial covers? that dash pod looks class :D i want to do it on mine now lol

Also how did you get the needles off without breaking them?

Cheers
Dan
 
I made them myself by scanning the original faces, switching them to negatives, then printing them, but I had to resize the speedo & the KPH came out too close to the mileage windows.

I`ve already re-done them (attached pic) & will put them on when I`m not as busy!

I used thin, long nosed pliers & a wide trim clip removal tool to get the needles off (placed around the centre bits), with thin plastic on the face to protect them.

The hardest bit is getting the pins out of the side dials, &, putting the needles back on in the right place..
 

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Nice one :D So the pic you have attached is the right size to print off and attach to my dials?

Dan
 
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