Technical Fiat Bravo 1.2 16V wont start!

[Coopster]

Hello guys, Instead of trying to find someone who had my problem and trawling through pages i knew it would be easier to jump in and ask..

Ok so my W reg 1.2 16v..

Its been fully serviced, new coil pack & leads etc..

So the idle kept fluctuating from 1k to 2.5k no matter whether you came to a stop at traffic lights or just started her up in the morning.

Yesterday the idle was perfectly normal so used the car happily.. Came to start her up last night and it started again.

Now the wire that goes in to the idle control valve is very tight and i gave them a wiggle and the revs started to be more dramatic i have noticed the clip broken on this plug to.

Anyway i come to it this morning and all it will do is turn over! Eventually i would get a little fart of it trying to start but it wouldnt actually fire up.

Does it sound like i need a new icv?

Cheers in advance

 

[varesecrazy]

Hi,
do you mean the loom is stretched tight..??

or something else..??,
either way, sort out the wiring before changing a mechanical component,
Charlie

 

[Coopster]

Yeah the loom is stretched so to say.. I fixed this issue at lunch time

Where would i find the thermostat on this 1.2 bravo?

I have used google and the forum search but the links are either old or not opening on my computer.

 

[varesecrazy]

hi,

EDIT , thermostat shouldn't stop it running..!!

IF running - and you want to change it..;
thermostat = end of cylinder head = next to battery..!! held in by 2 x M10 hex head bolts

order a new one, @£15, as they can + do fail,
get a couple of new jubillee clips too, £2 + a bit of goo for the gasketseal.
then it's 20 mins well spent,

leave rad cap on tight,
until back together - then the coolant level should only drop by a cup-full or so,

have fun..,
Charlie

 

[Coopster]

Thank you, will get on to this at the weekend while i replace the heater matrix to!

Bummer that all this is happening

 

[bluejohn125]

Problems like that are generally wiring or a sensor... you seem to be suspecting a temperature issue which is possible and would imply a water temp sensor for example.

As stated it is simple and worthwhile to change the thermostat (coilpack off job...) and it's a doddle if you're doing the heater matrix (I've been through this too.... my stat and radiator bottom were caked in brown oxidised crud when I finally sorted everything). You should enjoy a moisture-free interior afterwards!

Do a search on throttle body cleaning in the guides - this is a worthwhile exercise since a lot of ECU signals are connected to that area of the car, and could explain your idling / starting problems.

 

[Coopster]

Hello thank you for the reply,

So the heater matrix is leaking like ****, I have bought a new one and sits with me The other problem i have now is the expansion tank (Coolant tank) all the water filled the tank and it was that pressurized i have hairline cracks in it! Thought it was going to explode. took the cap off and it was as if i just opened a bottle of shaken up coke! once it stopped it seemed to go back around the system and be normal..

Do you think this is due to my heater matrix and it sucks air in?

I know before all this happened when you first started it you could hear the water either in the dash / back of the engine make a glugging noise as the water went round then it would stop.

Car is driving me mad!

 

[bluejohn125]

Well it sounds like you need a full cooling system overhaul..... just be glad your head gasket has survived...

The heater matrix is a PITA dash / glovebox off job, so be brave and look for guides on the forum or pay someone who knows what they're doing.

But even before you do the matrix you should flush and flush the system several times, I did mine about 12 times before I finally dislodged all the grud from the rad etc. The leaky matrix lets air in and this caused oxidation and residues. You can flush once or twice properly with a Wynns additive (or similar), otherwise just fresh water, open the heater valves, run the engine, add water till rad bleed valve leaks, then bleed each of the heater hoses in the engine bay near the bulkhead, do the return hose (with the side extension part) last - this should get rid of the gurgles. Run the engine nice and hot, then dump the bottom hose to get a big splurge of crap out. Actually if you're just working on cleaning the rad you can just fill it with boiling kettle water, let it set and then dump it without filling the full system and circulating.

If you sort the rad, expansion tank and thermostat before you tackle the heater then you will be ahead of the game.

Hope it goes well...

 

[Coopster]

It was odd, I think it was the head gasket. It wouldn't start would only pop and fart and stunk of over fuelling I eventually got it started then I used some "K Seal" (Great stuff) Did as it said on the tin and since the car has started up everytime..

This leads me to believe the headgasket had gone and it wouldn't turn over due to water.

 

[varesecrazy]

Sounds like you've sussed it,
the over pressurising was the symptom for me..,

just beware of it overheating in the summer, as these product aren't selective ,and block -up everything in their path..,( choked radiator)

Charlie