Technical Favourite tool for removing driveshaft?

[AnthonyH]

What is your go to tool for removing a driveshaft?

A sliding hammer?

Fork?

Rope?

Something else?

I had a lot of bother removing my last pair of driveshafts without any tools. I want to make life easier with a clutch replacement imminent.

 

[bugsymike]

What is your go to tool for removing a driveshaft?

A sliding hammer?

Fork?

Rope?

Something else?

I had a lot of bother removing my last pair of driveshafts without any tools. I want to make life easier with a clutch replacement imminent.

Is the rope for when you give up?
Is the problem removing the entire drive shaft or just the CV joint?

 

[AnthonyH]

Its getting the inner cv joint out of the transmission, so the gearbox can come off and gain access to the clutch.

I've not had reason to remove an entire driveshaft at this point

 

[bugsymike]

Its getting the inner cv joint out of the transmission, so the gearbox can come off and gain access to the clutch.

I've not had reason to remove an entire driveshaft at this point

From memory the shaft that is bolted to engine on the O/S (similar to photo below from a 1.3 MJ VauxhallCombo/Fiat Doblo) apart from getting those three bolts out and hub nut/wishbone etc. just pulls out of gearbox.
The shorter shaft on N/S from memory has a circlip which holds it into the gearbox,this one can be a pain to get out of the gearbox, so sometimes a decent thick screwdriver and/or a crowbar behind the inner CV joint and a bang on the cv joint with a decent copper hammer can release them generally.
If you can get a good attachment on a slide hammer that may shock the shaft from the gearbox, but I have always managed as above.
There may be a suitable forked tool, but I have never seen one.

 

[AnthonyH]

I used the screwdriver tapping and crowbar method last time and it only worked on the nearside after a looooong time lol. I'm not sure how long it took me but it felt like forever. There are a few different methods listed and used on youtube but nobody can come up with a definitive "this is best".

I do wonder about the fork, they're very expensive for a shaped chisel. So i'll deffo give them a miss.

I suppose i'm looking for a tool because i doubt i'll ever learn the correct technique, which can look effortless with experience.

 

[bugsymike]

I used the screwdriver tapping and crowbar method last time and it only worked on the nearside after a looooong time lol. I'm not sure how long it took me but it felt like forever. There are a few different methods listed and used on youtube but nobody can come up with a definitive "this is best".

I do wonder about the fork, they're very expensive for a shaped chisel. So i'll deffo give them a miss.

I suppose i'm looking for a tool because i doubt i'll ever learn the correct technique, which can look effortless with experience.

A pair of wedges between the joint and gearbox so giving even force may work.
Sometimes a blow from a heavy copper mallet will work when you least expect it.
I wanted to change a CV outer boot on a Honda Civic some years ago and it really would not come off, so I took the whole shaft out to fit the boot by removing the inner joint and fitting the boot from that end in a vice on the bench, as I knocked off the inner, the outer just decided to fall off without touching it.

 

[AnthonyH]

A pair of wedges between the joint and gearbox so giving even force may work.

How does this work?

Sometimes a blow from a heavy copper mallet will work when you least expect it.
I wanted to change a CV outer boot on a Honda Civic some years ago and it really would not come off, so I took the whole shaft out to fit the boot by removing the inner joint and fitting the boot from that end in a vice on the bench, as I knocked off the inner, the outer just decided to fall off without touching it.

I just saw this youtube short, impressive home made tool.

 

[GrandePunto PL]

No special tools needed. Just some improvised chisel, prybar/crowbar, wedge, big screwdriver.
If there is resistance you turn the shaft and try again, that's the trick (NOT increasing power, force).
Change the "angle of attack", pry at different spot.
And you don't install back damaged C-clip.

 

[AnthonyH]

No special tools needed. Just some improvised chisel, prybar/crowbar, wedge, big screwdriver.
If there is resistance you turn the shaft and try again, that's the trick (NOT increasing power, force).

I remember turning the driveshaft was important, that did eventually work, i'm hoping for a sure fire shortcut, but maybe that doesn't exist.

 

[bugsymike]

I remember turning the driveshaft was important, that did eventually work, i'm hoping for a sure fire shortcut, but maybe that doesn't exist.

If you lever at two opposite points, then no need to turn shaft.
On the video obviously that one was severely rusted, I have never seen that, however the video does show the circlip you are trying to overcome.
Once that is past shaft normally slides out easily as plenty of gear oil around it.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

No special tools needed. Just some improvised chisel, prybar/crowbar, wedge, big screwdriver.
If there is resistance you turn the shaft and try again, that's the trick (NOT increasing power, force).
Change the "angle of attack", pry at different spot.
And you don't install back damaged C-clip.

I find this method works for me. I have a long tyre lever - Melco TL95, it's nearly 2 feet long - and the flattened end fits very nicely behind the outer casing of an inner joint and the gearbox casing. I then position it over a casing bolt or thicker part of the casing and apply a quick "jerk". It's the suddenness of the jerk which gets the job done rather than applying a more sustained high amount of leverage. A prolonged and increasing amount of leverage will sometimes result in breaking the casting of the gearbox. If, after a couple of goodly jerks, it hasn't "popped" then I turn the joint about a third of a turn and try again. If that doesn't work I turn it a further third and carry on until it does "pop" the circlip. I think the way the circlip lines up with the groove in the shaft or dif gear it resides in has a lot to do with this. If it's moved a little off centre that's when it tends to resist and turning and jerking helps to centre it. I'd actually advise against applying excess force as, if the circlip is off centre, the splines can bite into it and jam the circlip. I've not actually had that problem with an inner joint but I've had it more than once with outer - CV type - joints which are retained to the shaft in a similar way. The problem is that if you "abuse" the circlip by getting too violent with it the splines can actually cut into and break the circlip - You have to get really brutal with it for this to happen. The problem is though that once the splines begin to bite into the circlip it'll jam up and refuse to be "squeezed" into it's groove and release the shaft. A broken circlip in a CV joint is a nuisance as you've got to clean it all out to get the broken bits out - Ok if you're fitting a new joint though. A broken circlip in a differential is a disaster and I wish you good luck getting those bits out. Always look very carefully at the circlip if you're going to reuse it. If there are signs of the splines having marked it you're best to fit a new one.

Edit. If, like me, you are working on axle stands then make sure they are securely placed. You are going to be putting some considerable side forces on the car so it might come off the stands if not placed sensibly - and don't even think of doing it supported only on a workshop jack - and don't even think about thinking about doing it with the car on a scissors type jack!

 

[AnthonyH]

I find this method works for me. I have a long tyre lever - Melco TL95, it's nearly 2 feet long - and the flattened end fits very nicely behind the outer casing of an inner joint and the gearbox casing. I then position it over a casing bolt or thicker part of the casing and apply a quick "jerk". It's the suddenness of the jerk which gets the job done rather than applying a more sustained high amount of leverage. A prolonged and increasing amount of leverage will sometimes result in breaking the casting of the gearbox. If, after a couple of goodly jerks, it hasn't "popped" then I turn the joint about a third of a turn and try again. If that doesn't work I turn it a further third and carry on until it does "pop" the circlip. I think the way the circlip lines up with the groove in the shaft or dif gear it resides in has a lot to do with this. If it's moved a little off centre that's when it tends to resist and turning and jerking helps to centre it. I'd actually advise against applying excess force as, if the circlip is off centre, the splines can bite into it and jam the circlip. I've not actually had that problem with an inner joint but I've had it more than once with outer - CV type - joints which are retained to the shaft in a similar way. The problem is that if you "abuse" the circlip by getting too violent with it the splines can actually cut into and break the circlip - You have to get really brutal with it for this to happen. The problem is though that once the splines begin to bite into the circlip it'll jam up and refuse to be "squeezed" into it's groove and release the shaft. A broken circlip in a CV joint is a nuisance as you've got to clean it all out to get the broken bits out - Ok if you're fitting a new joint though. A broken circlip in a differential is a disaster and I wish you good luck getting those bits out. Always look very carefully at the circlip if you're going to reuse it. If there are signs of the splines having marked it you're best to fit a new one.

Edit. If, like me, you are working on axle stands then make sure they are securely placed. You are going to be putting some considerable side forces on the car so it might come off the stands if not placed sensibly - and don't even think of doing it supported only on a workshop jack - and don't even think about thinking about doing it with the car on a scissors type jack!

Since i had this trouble earlier in the year i've bought a set of longer crowbars. I may even have a 2 feet one to try, that came in especially handy for levering a ball joint off the wheel hub recently. So i'm glad you mentioned this, its giving me an option. I'll be sure to only give it a sudden jerk and not apply lots of pressure and risk damage.

The car will be up on axle stands, for some time while i get this clutch job done, so there's no possibility of me relying on scissor or workshop jacks. I even double up on the axle stands these days

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Since i had this trouble earlier in the year i've bought a set of longer crowbars. I may even have a 2 feet one to try, that came in especially handy for levering a ball joint off the wheel hub recently. So i'm glad you mentioned this, its giving me an option. I'll be sure to only give it a sudden jerk and not apply lots of pressure and risk damage.

The car will be up on axle stands, for some time while i get this clutch job done, so there's no possibility of me relying on scissor or workshop jacks. I even double up on the axle stands these days

Hi Anthony. It's the "sudden jerk" that gets it done. Obviously with a long lever like this you can apply "silly" amounts of force if you try. so quick jerks but with "moderate" force and rotate the joint/shaft if it doesn't free. Sometimes quite a number of jerks will be needed and it's very tempting to start applying "silly" amounts of force. Resist the temptation and carry on with the quick jerks and rotation. Very occasionally you'll get one which really just won't give up and then I try levering with the tyre lever on one side applying a constant force and hit the joint on the other side quite a sharp "dunt", maybe a number of times, maybe even rotating it and trying again in another position. When she was younger Mrs J used to be my helper with the tyre lever while I wielded the hammer, but it's been many many years since I've managed to get her under a car. I think the row we had when I rebuilt the Anglia's engine in the kitchen of our flat was what did it! She will still pump brake pedals for me .

 

[AnthonyH]

I've just checked how long it took me to get the nearside driveshaft off earlier this year, it was almost a week! So i'm getting my research done

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I've just checked how long it took me to get the nearside driveshaft off earlier this year, it was almost a week! So i'm getting my research done

Aye, they can be VERY stubborn. Easy for me to say, but the more you do the more you develop a "feel" for it. There's always the awkward one though!