- Joined
- Apr 23, 2015
- Messages
- 50
- Points
- 97
Purists look away.
Having restored 4 x 500s to standard form, thought it about time for something a little different.
I’ve been intrigued as to the extent at which one can cut the inner/ outer arches of the standard car to accept wider arches, for a squatter look.
Call me an animal in changing the “ originality “, but the car was far from original, with its new panels etc , of which I’m still redoing a lot of the welding , as the previous owner didn’t deserve a welder.
By cutting the arches, 20mm up from the lip, this obviously reduces the strength of the arch. Once cut , you’re left with a gap around the circumference. This needs re connecting. I’ve been horrified at things I’ve heard as to methods connection
. Slitting, bending is clearly not the best. So with a relatively uniform gap, I purchased a 6mm stainless rod, 1000mms, which when migged retains arch strength .
Having obtained some group 2 fibreglass arches, these will be affixed, preferably without a seam.
Having offered up the new wheel, and approximate placement as to the arch location can be determined. By turning the wheel, it’s key to ensure the middle seam is also well away from tyre rub. Also the in and out at the top wheel movement, which of course can be altered via the camber.
More progress to follow.
Having restored 4 x 500s to standard form, thought it about time for something a little different.
I’ve been intrigued as to the extent at which one can cut the inner/ outer arches of the standard car to accept wider arches, for a squatter look.
Call me an animal in changing the “ originality “, but the car was far from original, with its new panels etc , of which I’m still redoing a lot of the welding , as the previous owner didn’t deserve a welder.
By cutting the arches, 20mm up from the lip, this obviously reduces the strength of the arch. Once cut , you’re left with a gap around the circumference. This needs re connecting. I’ve been horrified at things I’ve heard as to methods connection
. Slitting, bending is clearly not the best. So with a relatively uniform gap, I purchased a 6mm stainless rod, 1000mms, which when migged retains arch strength .
Having obtained some group 2 fibreglass arches, these will be affixed, preferably without a seam.
Having offered up the new wheel, and approximate placement as to the arch location can be determined. By turning the wheel, it’s key to ensure the middle seam is also well away from tyre rub. Also the in and out at the top wheel movement, which of course can be altered via the camber.
More progress to follow.
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