Technical Engine Temperature

[Dave UK]

Just a quick question that ive been meaning to ask for the past couple of years!

My engine temperature gauge never gets to the half way mark. Normally sits around the 30% level, even on long journeys.

Is this normal?

 

[puntofan01]

Not as far as I know.

 

[DaveHolland]

Should be sat right on the halfway mark when up to temp. Can take a while to get to temp though, depending on ambient conditions. Though should definitely be up to it on the longer journeys I'd have thought

Could be the gauge itself at fault or possibly thermostat failure (failsafe stuck in the open position), however the latter usually accompanies an EML.

Any other gauges reading incorrectly?

 

[Ben D]

What kind of heat are you getting from the heater in the car?

Coolant temp should be between 88 & 95C when operating normally. If you have an Android device download Torque Lite and get a bluetooth OBD reader, this will allow you to check coolant temp. If lower than the above and not a lot of heat from fan, it would suggest that the thermostat is opening too soon or sticking open.

Cheers

Ben

 

[Dave UK]

Thanks for all the replies.

As I say, its been like this for almost a couple of years now. Never had any EML come on in regards to this issue though. Also never noticed any problem with the heat coming from the heaters, blows out nice and hot after the engines warmed up.

All other gauges seem to be reading correctly. Also have the same issue in the summer when its very hot outside.

Ive got an OBD cable and the software on my laptop, so will check out the coolant temperature after ive given it a good run and will post back.

 

[Dave UK]

Took my car out for a good run last night, including motorway.

Temperaatue gauge reached the 40% mark, but kept on jumping between 30% and 40%.

Connected it to my laptop and the temperature varied between 69 degrees and the maximum of 73% - So quite a bit out of Ben recommended.

Could this be part of the reason why ive had my EGR valve replaced twice in 18 months?

 

[DaveHolland]

Potential knock-on, all sorts of issues with the dreaded clogged EGR but not one I've experienced before admittedly.

If the temperature is genuinely low (i.e. not a spurious reading from the coolant temp sensor) as you've established, I would suggest it's a sticking/worn thermostat at fault. Not a difficult DIY job, will sort the overcooling issue and potentially see some small MPG gains (engine running at optimum temperature etc.)

Dave

 

[Dave UK]

Potential knock-on, all sorts of issues with the dreaded clogged EGR but not one I've experienced before admittedly.

If the temperature is genuinely low (i.e. not a spurious reading from the coolant temp sensor) as you've established, I would suggest it's a sticking/worn thermostat at fault. Not a difficult DIY job, will sort the overcooling issue and potentially see some small MPG gains (engine running at optimum temperature etc.)

Dave

Many thanks for your reply Dave.

Just had a look and a replacement thermostat seems very reasonably priced. This one seems to be compatible.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIAT-GRAN...OSTAT-HOUSING-WITH-SENSOR-05-ON-/151307541711

Is it a simple case of disconnecting the old one and reconnecting the new one? Anything else I should be aware of?

 

[DaveHolland]

Yeah they're reasonably priced.

If you've got a basic toolkit with a set of ring spanners/sockets and some needle nose pliers you can't go far wrong. It's no more difficult than a normal thermostat change, just you're also doing the housing here.

Main things to remember are:

• Hose clips will probably be rusted and will snap as you remove them. Have some appropriately sized jubilee clips or replacement hose clips on hand. Don't try and save the existing ones at the risk of piercing a hose
• IIRC the battery/tray obscures the thermostat somewhat. For the sake of an extra few minutes unbolting them, you'll find access easier.
• Replace the coolant while you're there unless it's already been done very recently. Worth the extra £10's worth of antifreeze to replenish the rust inhibiting additives
• Check for air locks after replacing coolant, don't want to find you're overheating due to low coolant on the way to work Monday morning!

Other than undoing the two securing bolts (can't remember sizes, sorry) it's just plumbing. Hopefully it'll be a fairly easy fix for you

Thanks

Dave

 

[Ben D]

Took me 90 mins first time around including a flush of radiator, refilling, bleeding and getting pipes off original housing. Removing pipes once clips were off was most difficult bit.
Second time around, took 30 mins including jacking, this was a 1.4 8v.
Housing is held with two 10mm AF bolts, you'll need an extension and you'll definitely need new clips. I filled as per Andy's guide and then bled by running up to temp with cap off and heaters on hot with blowers on full then fitted cap.

Good luck!


Ben

 

[Dave UK]

Just thought id post an update.

Purchased a new thermostat and instead of attempting to do it myself, took it down my local garage.

The replaced the thermostat, but appararntly when they took the old one off it was working fine. I did however have a knackered water pump. As the last time I got the cambelt changed was in 2010, I got them to do this at the same time as replacing the waterpump.

Remove old and fit new thermostat
Replace water pump
Replace cambelt
Replace coolant
- £390

Car heats up like a charm now. Just glad I took it to the garage otherwise could have been looking at a pretty nasty bill!