Technical  Engine issue

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Technical  Engine issue

Hello,
Since last message I have change the EGR valve and the Lambda but nothing have change (I have also do a reset of the self-learning functions and anything that can be related to EGR and Lambda). The Lambda still output 32V before being heating enough so the lambda was good... Or maybe was not ? After checking old loggings it may have been a bit defective by not heating as much as it should ? But results are not 100% true since my tests was not in the same conditions (For the old Lambda I was standing then going 20km/h and for the new one I was going 50 then 80 then 130 in a matter of minutes)
For now except a physical issue I don't know what to look for (and I cannot acces to a compression tester for now so this will be delayed)
Every idea you could have is welcome (and if you want more info about anything ask me)
 
With the lambda unplugged I can still start, the engine still runs and I have 32V on lambda voltage
But I also have the error P0135 - lambda sensor electrical diagnosis in ECU
 
Even with a new lambda that doesn't feed abnormal values after a bit (when hot) ? For me, when the working temp isn't reach the lambda shouldn't send any signal - that is interpreted by the ECU as +32V (same for my dad). More than that, the ECU recognise the lambda because I don't have the fault when it is plugged in but that's all, this option is a dead end
 
But 32V? What lambda sensor is ghat? What range? And does it not have a heater?
The one you replaced was constantly on 32 or around there, right? So it was bad.
32V is before the initialisation of the Lambda
It is a way to tell the ECU "hey, I'm heating, please wait"
It have a heater but the heater d'ont work instantly, the lambda need time to heat before working
The one I replaced was working the same way, 32V until it was hot enough to register values, so it was not so bad (but I won't be going back on it)
 
Here are the pictures with a picture of the whole engine



The reading is out of range up until the 2nd picture of the second graph (Lambda2-2.png) where the lambda tension (in yellow) drop from 32V to 1,7~2V. The part where the lambda is out of range can just correspond to the delay before the lambda value is read. According to eLEARN (the online version when it was available), I should have a heating element inside the lambda, I can add it to the list of check I must do on my doblo
Btw, I had print every electric diagram from online eLEARN for doblo 1.9JTD after 2003. The eLEARN available to download from the fiatforum doesn't mention the K40 (lambda)
I don't seem to be getting all your replies for some reason. on your second photo , is it my eyes or is there a lot of soot on engine block by catlyist/particulate filter.
If so an air leak on the exhaust can throw up all sorts of messages.
Apart from that did you ever try the EGR blanking plate as a test as I think it is fairly easy to do on your model?
 
I don't seem to be getting all your replies for some reason. on your second photo , is it my eyes or is there a lot of soot on engine block by catlyist/particulate filter.
If so an air leak on the exhaust can throw up all sorts of messages.
Apart from that did you ever try the EGR blanking plate as a test as I think it is fairly easy to do on your model?
I don't have any message in the ECU (except for key not recognise and 2 other fault but they are always registered and never active)
I had a leak from when I had remove the lambda the first time but this leak should be solve with the new one
I had install a blanking plate on the EGR but it doesn't improve anything, it just show the engine warning light with a fault related to the EGR (who leave without my intervention when I remove the plate)
 
Oh yeah, for this part, it is mainly oil from the leaking filling hole (there is more on the intake manifold and near the EGR due to a faulty joint, it will be replace soon). There is also assisted steering oil that I poured very badly last time I had to fill the tank and a little bit of diesel that was leaking from a defective return pipe (pipe was disintegrating by itself, had been replaced but not cleaned)
I also have oil leak arond the oil tank seal and gearbox oil on the other side of the engine

I had a bit of soot in the EGR and a bit should have deposit near the lambda because of the removal and on the filter it is rust
is it my eyes or is there a lot of soot on engine block by catlyist/particulate filter
Sorry I hadn't see this part of your message

I have 2 small leak on the exhaust. 1 that is on the silencer and the other that is somwhere near the engine, if only it exist (can be the accessory belt that had worn down)
 
Oh yeah, for this part, it is mainly oil from the leaking filling hole (there is more on the intake manifold and near the EGR due to a faulty joint, it will be replace soon). There is also assisted steering oil that I poured very badly last time I had to fill the tank and a little bit of diesel that was leaking from a defective return pipe (pipe was disintegrating by itself, had been replaced but not cleaned)
I also have oil leak arond the oil tank seal and gearbox oil on the other side of the engine

I had a bit of soot in the EGR and a bit should have deposit near the lambda because of the removal and on the filter it is rust

Sorry I hadn't see this part of your message

I have 2 small leak on the exhaust. 1 that is on the silencer and the other that is somwhere near the engine, if only it exist (can be the accessory belt that had worn down)


I may be wrong, but what I was looking at was a heavy deposit of soot from exhaust on the engine block behind the cataylist/particulate filter, I have often seen similar when working on garage ramps under neath cars, also I know when conducting Mot emission tests any exhaust leaks affect results.:)
 
I may be wrong, but what I was looking at was a heavy deposit of soot from exhaust on the engine block behind the cataylist/particulate filter, I have often seen similar when working on garage ramps under neath cars, also I know when conducting Mot emission tests any exhaust leaks affect results.:)

When the weather is dryer I will check under but for me it is just oil that had dripped from when I fill up the steering tank (and that can had dripped from my leaks on the butterfly and the engine oil cap seal) and surely a lot of dust, dirt and debris (same stuff you can see on the top left side of picture 1)
But just to be sure I will check and make a leak test of air intake and exhaust
Thanks for your feedback !
 
When the weather is dryer I will check under but for me it is just oil that had dripped from when I fill up the steering tank (and that can had dripped from my leaks on the butterfly and the engine oil cap seal) and surely a lot of dust, dirt and debris (same stuff you can see on the top left side of picture 1)
But just to be sure I will check and make a leak test of air intake and exhaust
Thanks for your feedback !
A quick test when engine idling is to put a cloth and your hand over the exhaust tail pipe, if you get a hissing from a leak and the engine keeps running then you have a leak.
Many years ago as a youngster I got stopped by the Police for a noisy exhaust, I put my foot over the tailpipe and the engine stopped, he then asked what the noise was and I told him the worn engine was just about to blow up! Sensing an offense, he asked "isn't that dangerous?" I replied there are two mechanics in the car and we are not bothered, so he gave up after that.:)
 
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