Technical Engine head, need to tighten the bolts

[aurick86]

I have no compresion in cilynder 2, bent intake valve is suspected.
I want to repare it my self due to high service fees.

need to know how the bolts that keep the head on to the engine block are called, and the size they are so i can buy the soket.

how should i tigten the bolts back on?
how much torque.
in what order

any details or input is welcomed.

 

[arc]

you'll need a new head gasket, possibly (probably) skim the head. If the valve is bent, what bent it? Piston damaged?

Head bolts are what holds the head on, they are Ribe M12

 

[aurick86]

are you sure it's M12?
I tried a M14 and it seemed a bit big .. but 2 numbers down seems a bit to much are you sure?

the piston isn't damaged.
this head was on a different engine that had an accident and the drive belt slipped and thus the bent valves.

i want to use the valves from the old head i have.

are you sure i need a new gasket? it only has 400 km on it.

how tight should i screw the bolts?

 

[maximoke]

What engine size is it? If it's 1.2 16V then it's M9 Ribe. You will definately need a new head gasket as once it is torqued down it cannot be re used. Confirm your engine and we can help with bolt torque and tightening sequence.

 

[aurick86]

The engine is the 1.4 12v '98 model.
ok.. new head gasket.. that shouldn't be to bad...
one more thing, the guy at the garage who put the engine back together didn't use any special tools for setting up the timing belt. it seemed straight forward: put the cam shaft pulley at the mark and then he turned the crank until he saw a mark on the flywheel ( i think that was where he was looking).
or what was he turning the crank for? where is the timing mark on the crank?

i want to do it on my own because i have some tehnical knowledge, and because i no longer trust garages to do a good job, plus the money is tight right now.

 

[maximoke]

If your engine has timing marks then yes, it's that straight forward. I will check my manual tonight for confirmation - or you could rotate the crank until the markings line up before you remove the belt and then use tipex or a permanent marker of some kind and mark the pulleys against the engine block etc. Double cautious.

 

[aurick86]

thank you for the tip. definitely going to do the marking.
just bought the Ribe i need, it's a M13.
now all i need is a torque wrench and the value i need to tighten it at.
the mecanic that did this 2-3 days ago said it was something like :
"first torkue them at 5-6 and after 10-20 min ( after the gasket gives a bit) tighten it at the final torque of 7-8 " what are thows values?
he also said that the recomendet way for tightening the head bolts is specific to fiat. something with degrees. something in 4 steps:
1. 20 Nm
2. 40 Nm
3. 90 degrees
4. another 90 degrees

* but NEW BOLTS are mandatory !!!!!

I don't know what that means, please tell me what that means.

 

[STU412T]

There are 4 stages to torquing head bolts up:

Stage 1: 20nm (15 lb/ft)

Stage 2: 40 nm (30 lb/ft)

Stage 3: Angle-tighten 90 degrees

Stage 4: Angle-tighten 90 degrees

Degrees means to tighten them to an angle using an angle gauge, so if you look on a clock, and start at 12 o'clock, 90 degrees would be 3 o'clock

Angle gauge: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/T285200-TRIDENT-TORQUE-ANGLE-GAUGE-1-2-DRIVE-/180488282157?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a05f0a02d

I have an image for the order to tighten them.

Oh and mandatory means you MUST renew the bolts.

 

[aurick86]

the ange thing.. i think there is a special torque wrench that does that.
i'm much better of with the metric system. lb does nothing for me( we use metric system in Romania)

I already finished the job
Replaced the bent valve on cylinder 2
Cleaned the valves ( they had a lot of carbon on them)
Lapped all the valves
tested the head for leaks with gasoline .. after 10-15 min nothing had passed through.

mounted everything back ( new head gasket- the old one got out intact but.. I already bought a new one )
Torqued the head in 4 steps
1. 20 Nm
2. 40 Nm
3. 80 Nm
4. 90 Nm


it runs fine now.. got 170 km on it ... no signs of problems..
apart for the water needing topping ( didn't do a complete airing of the cooling system) but the water temp level is stable) still aspect it needing topping off for a while, till i get the air out.

The problem I have now is that airbag light stays on.. ( problem before the work i did) where should i check ?

the airbag light stays on after i got the gauges out.
tried to do the resetting thing removing the battery leads.. but it's still there.
any suggestions?