Technical Engine Flush

[Adam1984]

So I am about to change my engine oil and filter.

I have only done 62,000 miles petrol. Am looking an an engine flush, but heard a mixed bag saying they are brilliant, poor and sometimes break the car.

My question is. Do they work? Is it worth getting one with 62,000 miles and being a 2015 reg?

If so what brand do I go for?

 

[ZaphodB]

Personally I would continue with on-time good quality oil changes , regardless if it didn't hit the service interval mileage for that year, changed every year.

 

[Adam1984]

Personally I would continue with on-time good quality oil changes , regardless if it didn't hit the service interval mileage for that year, changed every year.

No problem.

Thank you. My new oil is due to arrive tomorrow. Gone for Fuchs Titan GT1Flex 3- 5W-40.

Filter is Mann

 

[Adam1984]

Personally I would continue with on-time good quality oil changes , regardless if it didn't hit the service interval mileage for that year, changed every year.

About 2 weeks ago, I had a service and watched the mechanic do it from my window (as he was mobile) didn't see him drain old oil, so may have only filled from top.

I seen the Castrol oil he had, so not sure if he did it, anyway am now going to drain and fill this weekend with new Fuchs oil, and a better filter Mann over Parflux, would this all be ok to do?

 

[ZaphodB]

About 2 weeks ago, I had a service and watched the mechanic do it from my window (as he was mobile) didn't see him drain old oil, so may have only filled from top.

I seen the Castrol oil he had, so not sure if he did it, anyway am now going to drain and fill this weekend with new Fuchs oil, and a better filter Mann over Parflux, would this all be ok to do?

There's only two ways to drain the oil, remove the drain plug ..... or vacuum extract from the dip stick tube. (some cars don't even have a drain plug so vacuum is the only method!)

Vacuum extract takes longer (cos the pipe is small), removing the drain plug usually involves removal of an undertray (depending on the car) so is a tiny bit more work

You will know for sure that the job is done when you've done it.

 

[Adam1984]

There's only two ways to drain the oil, remove the drain plug ..... or vacuum extract from the dip stick tube. (some cars don't even have a drain plug so vacuum is the only method!)

Vacuum extract takes longer (cos the pipe is small), removing the drain plug usually involves removal of an undertray (depending on the car) so is a tiny bit more work

You will know for sure that the job is done when you've done it.

Will it do any harm if I get it done again, even if it was done about 2 weeks ago?

 

[ZaphodB]

Will it do any harm if I get it done again, even if it was done about 2 weeks ago?

Nope, not in the slightest

 

[Peter Pick-Up]

Castrol is a great quality oil, probably the scource where Fuchs get their oil from...
Purflux and Mann filters are the same quality.

 

[Peter Pick-Up]

Engine flush is a waste of money, just keep on using good oil, and indeed change every 6000mls, or once a year+ filter.

 

[Adam1984]

Engine flush is a waste of money, just keep on using good oil, and indeed change every 6000mls, or once a year+ filter.

Thanks.

As am not sure if my oil was changed fully or just topped up on my last service a few weeks ago, I have just bought some Fuchs oil and a new Mann filter.

Getting changed tomorrow.

The picture was my oil the other day.

 

[Peter Pick-Up]

Thanks.

As am not sure if my oil was changed fully or just topped up on my last service a few weeks ago, I have just bought some Fuchs oil and a new Mann filter.

Getting changed tomorrow.

The picture was my oil the other day.

Put some anti- rust/ rust converter on that bellypan asap...

 

[Adam1984]

Put some anti- rust/ rust converter on that bellypan asap...

How does the oil look to you? What's the best anti-rust to get? Or just get a new oil pan?

 

[Peter Pick-Up]

Judging oil, just by the looks from a picture is hard.
Get a bottle rust convertor from a carpart shop, they all work the same, more or less....

 

[Mike1alike]

@Adam1984, I do recommend an engine flush.
The best way to do it (read products) is old school, use diesel as flush. It's true, I never tried any other dedicated products but that is because diesel is so efficient in cleaning and I had top result using it for engine flush.
How to do it: use up to 1 L of diesel, add it to wormed up engine on top of oil you are about to replace. It's no problem if the total volume will go a little over the Max mark on the stick. Start the engine and run it for about 10 minutes. Let it run on idle mostly, but at some points of it running, do revv the engine a bit, 2500-3000 RPM. Then turn the engine off, let it cool down a little (or proceed carefully) then do the oil and filter change.

 

[Adam1984]

@Adam1984, I do recommend an engine flush.
The best way to do it (read products) is old school, use diesel as flush. It's true, I never tried any other dedicated products but that is because diesel is so efficient in cleaning and I had top result using it for engine flush.
How to do it: use up to 1 L of diesel, add it to wormed up engine on top of oil you are about to replace. It's no problem if the total volume will go a little over the Max mark on the stick. Start the engine and run it for about 10 minutes. Let it run on idle mostly, but at some points of it running, do revv the engine a bit, 2500-3000 RPM. Then turn the engine off, let it cool down a little (or proceed carefully) then do the oil and filter change.

My car is a petrol and not diesel

 

[ZaphodB]

My car is a petrol and not diesel

It doesn't matter at all if the engine runs on petrol or diesel , you're just using the diesel as a dilution agent, it's going in the sump not the combustion chambers


You're quite safe using it as a flush , if you choose to flush , as it's got a much higher flash point, as said it's just bring used as a dilution agent to the existing oil.

 

[Adam1984]

It doesn't matter at all if the engine runs on petrol or diesel , you're just using the diesel as a dilution agent, it's going in the sump not the combustion chambers


You're quite safe using it as a flush , if you choose to flush , as it's got a much higher flash point, as said it's just bring used as a dilution agent to the existing oil.

Just read so many mixed reviews about the sold pre mixed stuff. The good top reviews are like liqui moly and wynns, but then still heard bad reviews saying it ruined people's engines. Who knows?

 

[ZaphodB]

I'm not recommending it, just explaining why it doesn't matter if your engine is petrol or diesel. (If you choose to use diesel as a dilution agent and flush)

From my humble side (and others here) of the argument fence , I maintain just do the oil changes on time regardless of lower mileage that year and you'll be fine.

Decent oil and on time service for the win (in my humble opinion)

 

[Peter Pick-Up]

I STRONGLY advise against a flush, it's possible dirt buld up will come loose and block vital passages= engine death.
One exception, flush with normal engine oil, changing after 200-300mls + filter works well to get crap out the engine.

 

[jackwhoo]

I also strongly suggest NOT to use engine flush.
The subject has been covered at great length on this forum and many others previously.