Technical Engine Flush - Yay or Nay??

Currently reading:
Technical Engine Flush - Yay or Nay??

Is that worth? No it isnt of course because is running good, passed also emission test. OK guys, using diesel isnt good idea :) I know that its not recommended on modern cars with VVT. Si I'll make only "light" flush with flush additive like STP, then change filter, use cheap oil for few minutes to clean STP remains in system, then change filter again and add new portion of original oil and thats all.
Thank you very much for your thoughts and suggestions guys ;-)
 
The car runs fine, so let it be, but keep in mind if it comes from a partly open valve you might end-up with a burned one ...
 
Am I correct in thinking these cars have hydraulic cam's?..If so why not try a can of something like Wynn's Hydraulic Treatment?...A decent flush and a can of that has 'cured' one of my older cars in the past.
BUT as has been said..it's all your choice and opinions vary.
 
Yes I know :-( I hope that its ok when compression test was ok too...but who knows. Once this happen, I'll make general repair of head in my livingroom :) I calculated cost of needed tools and price will be appr 100-150 eur, so its ok for saving whole car :) Except price for damaged part(s) of course. But I'm afraid of one thing - when previous owner baked engine, he also grinded block & head surfaces. And making this again...you know...will be tolerance still ok after 2nd grinding of surfaces? And other questions like valve seats grinding and so on...And im not talking about pistons/rings inspection, removal on street...1st sensitive neighbor from our 7-floor house will call cops that I'm making noise and doing with oil on street... Last time when I chamged oil near abandoned garages, someone called cops :) I showed them that theres no oil spot on road and I have bottles to catch old oil... :) Crazy
nikrox - no, there is bucket/shimm type, not hydraulic lifters. So valve spring pushes valve up and only correvt shimm thickness is making clearance between shimm and cam lobe
 
Last edited:
... when previous owner baked engine, he also grinded block & head surfaces...

Honestly I doubt he had those re-planed, MAYBE the head (since it was removed) but most likely NOT the block (since it needs engine removal) ...
Renewing (seriously) an engine is not a DIY job: a LOT of parts will need to be replaced/rectified and some engine will even be "not renewable" because of excessive wear and/or spare parts un-avaibility.

The cheap engine revamp is usually to get the head off, plane it on a "marble" (not sure if that's correct) and get the valves "grinded" to their seats. Valve tail seals are usually provided with the head seals kit so having them renewed could also solve oil consumption/blue smoke issue.

Next step would be to renew the "down" engine: crankshaft and rods cushions, together with a potential trunions rectification.

And finally comes the piston/cylinder stuff:
- cheap(ish): expansing rings (Goëtz or other brands)
- expensive (but might be necessary): cylindre re-bore and new pistons & rings.

Finally, if I had a nice running car, I wouldn't bother about a "ticking" noise that can only be heard by the surrounding peoples.
OR I would completely dismantle it to peace my mind ...

Of course those last options can't be easily done on a parking lot, without tools, little knowledge and winter coming :(

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
Last edited:
Absolutely agree with you Bernie ;-) The best option is to leave as it is. During one year I own this car is ticking two times quieter and audible only on hot idle. As I remember, before the ticking started when engine was heating up and temperature needle was on 1/4. Now it's ticking only on operational temp (needle on 1/2) and only when car stops=isnt cooled by outside air flow. So it's on good way and maybe changing oil again and again will help too.
OK guys, decision made, I did/checked almost everything what I could, now I can focus on other things like changing front brake discs (under min limit)+pads & front shocks (when I stop, my whole front is going up and down few times :) )
 
Last edited:
IMHO, brakes and suspension are WAY more important than a ticking noise, specially if you were chasing it for one year !!

Anyway, post a new thread and we'll be happy to help...

BRs, Bernie
 
New thread not needed, I replaced brakes on my few cars ;-) Worse is replacing front shocks because I dont have tool for spring compressing, so this will be done by service, and also lower bolts are nicely rusty :)
 
Last edited:
Funny thing today - I parked car on gas station with running engine. I went to buy something and guy working on gas staion said: "Hey mister, turn off your lights because it will drain your battery". I said "nobworries, engine is running" . And he said "what? Its so silent!". Then he goes next to my car and gave his head 1 meter over the hood. "Really, its running" he said :)
Of course engine wasnt at operational temp so there was no ticking :)

Anyway, I'll make "soft" engine flush like this:
1, add 100ml of flush aditive like STP
2, run idle 10 min
3, flush & replace filter
4, add cheap 5w-40 oil 2.5l and run 10 minutes
5, flush away
6, add cheap 5w-40 again, run 10min, flush
7, replace filter
8, add 2.5l original oil
9, run 200km on highway on 130km/h (because car is driving only in city and short distances)

And then I'll change oil every year (appr each 8000 km). I think this is the best method I can do
 
Our 1.3 MJ was Ticking, really metallic sound, occasionally got very loud, other times quite subtle. Turned out to be a seal failure on an injector.
 
I unplugged injectors one by one on idle but ticking was still there. My ticking is high, not so "metalic" like piston slap for example...its like 2 metalic wires are ticking on themselves. I'll make that oil flush and will see
 
Last edited:
Just curious - did you replace any parts recently? I just watched a video today about a shop where they forgot to tighten the alternator and it made a clicking noise while the engine was running.
 
No no guys, engine has been diagnosed perfectly (but this was discussed + videos in other threads). This thread is about engine flush and that was answered to me
 
Last edited:
Back
Top