jjacob
Member
No problem, Americans love the Brits and the Aussies...even though you guys talk funny.
John
Technical engine drop
- Thread starter JakeF
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Technical engine drop
No problem, Americans love the Brits and the Aussies...even though you guys talk funny.
John
No problem, Americans love the Brits and the Aussies...even though you guys talk funny.
John
Uh huh - and y'all are from Tennessee? Chris
jjacob
Member
Hi Chris,
I live in Tennessee now, but originally from Chicago, Illinois. A northerner in the south, although I find myself saying y'all every once in a while.
When I moved here I was told the first thing to do after I bought a house was to buy a pickup truck. I have a 1988 Chevrolet full size truck with an 8 foot bed (2.4 meters) and a 5.0L V-8 engine. Now that's 'merican!
John
I live in Tennessee now, but originally from Chicago, Illinois. A northerner in the south, although I find myself saying y'all every once in a while.
When I moved here I was told the first thing to do after I bought a house was to buy a pickup truck. I have a 1988 Chevrolet full size truck with an 8 foot bed (2.4 meters) and a 5.0L V-8 engine. Now that's 'merican!
John
For those of us that live on the southern half of the planet, we are heading into Spring. Where I live, we also had a 26degC day today with similar forecast for the foreseeable future
Without wishing to get into a 'my vista is better than yours' war, I've attached a photo of the beach close to where I live. The photo was taken about this time of the year.
Sorry for the hijack Mr. List Moderator, I'll get back to the topic in hand.
Chris
:Offtopic:
OK - done my bit....... please carry on!
Got the engine off. It was pretty easy job. Took me 2h in total. The worst part was to get the starter bolts off .
Is it a big deal to change the gasket to the top end? When I remove the head should the motor be in TDC? Any other tips?
It is also leaking abit between transmission and engine(transmission side). Am I right that there is a lip seal? Got to replace that one.
Jake
.Is it a big deal to change the gasket to the top end? When I remove the head should the motor be in TDC? Any other tips?
It is also leaking abit between transmission and engine(transmission side). Am I right that there is a lip seal? Got to replace that one.
Jake
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jjacob
Member
No need to put engine at TDC unless you plan on changing the timing chain and gears.
Most likely that the rear main seal for the engine is leaking. Might be a good idea to replace it as long as you have the engine out. The seal is very inexpensive.
John
Most likely that the rear main seal for the engine is leaking. Might be a good idea to replace it as long as you have the engine out. The seal is very inexpensive.
John
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Ok so the top end is not a big deal. The gearbox seal where is it actually? Any pictures? Thanks
Jake
jjacob
Member
Jake,
Not the gearbox seal, but the seal at the end of the engine crankshaft behind the flywheel. This is most likely the source of your leak.
Do you have a Haynes or Fiat repair manual? If not, you should stop and get one first.
I got a CD with the factory Fiat repair manual, the Autobooks repair manual, and a parts manual all on one CD from the following link. Very low cost and the scans are perfect.
http://motormanmanuals.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
I would suggest getting the Haynes manual also. If you review the manuals and look at the exploded parts views everything will be obvious on how to do the repair.
John
Not the gearbox seal, but the seal at the end of the engine crankshaft behind the flywheel. This is most likely the source of your leak.
Do you have a Haynes or Fiat repair manual? If not, you should stop and get one first.
I got a CD with the factory Fiat repair manual, the Autobooks repair manual, and a parts manual all on one CD from the following link. Very low cost and the scans are perfect.
http://motormanmanuals.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
I would suggest getting the Haynes manual also. If you review the manuals and look at the exploded parts views everything will be obvious on how to do the repair.
John
Found the Autobooks manual in pdf. The clutch/flywheel side looks dry, no leaks. But the transmission side is wet?
Found only these pictures, I believe the gearbox seal is the red arrow? What about the flywheel side you jjacob mentioned?
Jake
Attachments
Yes there is a clutch shaft seal (as you've illustrated) and yes it does eventually leak, as do all seals when they age. It is easy to replace once you've removed the bell housing. While you have the transmission out, it'd be a good idea to replace the half shaft seals. In fact, I'd replace any seal that I can get access to even though this advice runs contrary to my general belief that if it's not broken, don't fix it. The exception is rubber in old cars.
John is also right when he suggests that you replace the rear main crankshaft seal while you have the engine out (# 4000 0160 in the photo). Once the clutch assembly, flywheel and rear main bearing are removed, the seal should be easy to replace - it's part of the rear bearing. Make sure that you suitably support the crankshaft when you remove the rear bearing and also mark parts as you take them off the engine. For example, the flywheel may be marked to indicated its 'balanced' position and should be replaced in the same position relative to the crankshaft.
Chris
John is also right when he suggests that you replace the rear main crankshaft seal while you have the engine out (# 4000 0160 in the photo). Once the clutch assembly, flywheel and rear main bearing are removed, the seal should be easy to replace - it's part of the rear bearing. Make sure that you suitably support the crankshaft when you remove the rear bearing and also mark parts as you take them off the engine. For example, the flywheel may be marked to indicated its 'balanced' position and should be replaced in the same position relative to the crankshaft.
Chris
Attachments
Thanks guys for the help, I appreciate it. The Haynes picture are not very good quality and does not say much about these gaskets.
Do I have to split the gearbox if I change the lip seal on the clutch shaft?
This is the only clear pic that I got about the gearbox, is no 13 the lip seal
?I think I found the right one?
Attachments
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Jake,
Yes, that looks like the input/spigot shaft seal.
As to the rest of your question, I might leave the answer to others. When I rebuilt my 126 synchro gearbox about two years ago, I had the help of a mate who is a very good mechanic and I honestly can't remember what we could get at easily and what was more difficult. All I do remember was that with his help, the job was very quick and easy and it only cost me a slab of beer (24 cans) plus parts.
Complete seal and gasket kits are available for these boxes from the spare parts retailers and they aren't expensive.
If you replace the bearings, use good quality Italian ones rather than the rather poorer quality ex-eastern bloc ones.
If you have a synchro box, the newer synchro rings will tolerate 90EP oil as well.
Sorry I can't be of more help,
Chris
Yes, that looks like the input/spigot shaft seal.
As to the rest of your question, I might leave the answer to others. When I rebuilt my 126 synchro gearbox about two years ago, I had the help of a mate who is a very good mechanic and I honestly can't remember what we could get at easily and what was more difficult. All I do remember was that with his help, the job was very quick and easy and it only cost me a slab of beer (24 cans) plus parts.
Complete seal and gasket kits are available for these boxes from the spare parts retailers and they aren't expensive.
If you replace the bearings, use good quality Italian ones rather than the rather poorer quality ex-eastern bloc ones.
If you have a synchro box, the newer synchro rings will tolerate 90EP oil as well.
Sorry I can't be of more help,
Chris
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The engine drop:
Disconnect +wire from battery
Disconnect fuel line from tank
0.Remove the two panels, 7 screws(under car) and 2 screws
1.Remove choke cable
2.Remove throttle cable(2 points)
3.Disconnect the dynamo(2 wires)
4.Disconnect licence plate light wire
5.Disconnect fuel line
6.Remove distributor cap and low tension wires
7.Disconnect spark plug wires
8.Disconnect oil pressure sensor
9.Remove the air tubes
Take the weigh fo the engine on a trolley jack under the sump.
10.Remove the two bolts and the two nuts. Lift away the mounting bracket
11.Remove the four nuts on the rear panel and put it in a safe place
On starter motor take out the split pin from pin holding the cable and undo the electric cable from terminal (13mm)
12.Undo three bolts and lift starter out
13.Undo the four nuts holding the engine to transmission(two on top first)
Now the engine is free, pull out carefully.
Hope this helps!
Jake
Disconnect +wire from battery
Disconnect fuel line from tank
0.Remove the two panels, 7 screws(under car) and 2 screws
1.Remove choke cable
2.Remove throttle cable(2 points)
3.Disconnect the dynamo(2 wires)
4.Disconnect licence plate light wire
5.Disconnect fuel line
6.Remove distributor cap and low tension wires
7.Disconnect spark plug wires
8.Disconnect oil pressure sensor
9.Remove the air tubes
Take the weigh fo the engine on a trolley jack under the sump.
10.Remove the two bolts and the two nuts. Lift away the mounting bracket
11.Remove the four nuts on the rear panel and put it in a safe place
On starter motor take out the split pin from pin holding the cable and undo the electric cable from terminal (13mm)
12.Undo three bolts and lift starter out
13.Undo the four nuts holding the engine to transmission(two on top first)
Now the engine is free, pull out carefully.
Hope this helps!
Jake
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jjacob
Member
Nice write up Jake.
John
John
Yep - excellent and such a nice clean engine as well
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
