Technical door frame bottom trim pieces

[blackydog]

Hi all. Putting the Barchetta back together after welding the floor. I've got a little bit of rust on the lip that runs inside the door frames, and need to remove the black plastic trims that fit on top of the sill. There is 1 screw I can see which I have removed but it doesn't want to come free. What holds it in place please?

 

[blackydog]

Hi all. Putting the Barchetta back together after welding the floor. I've got a little bit of rust on the lip that runs inside the door frames, and need to remove the black plastic trims that fit on top of the sill. There is 1 screw I can see which I have removed but it doesn't want to come free. What holds it in place please?
Sussed it. There's a small screw at the base of the A pillar. Door needs to be fully open to see it. There's also 4 of the plug and socket kind of fixings, but they didn't put up much resistance. The 4 holes for them can be seen in the top of the sill pic.

 

[s130]

That looks different to the setup on the 2005 "B". I've had all my floor/sill trip off and there is no screw in that bottom corner of the "A" post hidden in the door recess area. The ePER parts list will probably list different trims.

 

[blackydog]

That looks different to the setup on the 2005 "B". I've had all my floor/sill trip off and there is no screw in that bottom corner of the "A" post hidden in the door recess area. The ePER parts list will probably list different trims.

Mine is the early version 1997.

 

[s130]

Mine is the early version 1997.

Yes I could see that by you "B" rear bumper Nice colour as well. Broom Yellow? I had a Broom Yellow Coupe 20V. Our "B" is silver which is also a good colour.

 

[blackydog]

Yes I could see that by you "B" rear bumper Nice colour as well. Broom Yellow? I had a Broom Yellow Coupe 20V. Our "B" is silver which is also a good colour.

Had it about 12 years now (from when I joined the forum I think). It's far from perfect, but I have welded the passenger side rear arch (big horrible job) and now reinforced the floor and jacking points either side (they go where the rubber grommits are) , so it is good for another 20 years. The body is very straight.
I'm now desperate for a new hood cover, mine is completely shot. If anyone has any tips, Sheffield area, it would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[s130]

Only tips I have to offer on a replacement hood is check carefully that the replacement hood has the integral two seals on the lower front corners where the hood settles down on the top of the wing and hood cover lid at the top of the B post.

These seals are on the original hood are sewn in, about 3 inches long and have a tripple fin profile.

Our first replacment hood did not have these seals. Our second hood has then but they just don't really work that well.

The problem is that this area of fairly flat with little incline and any way falling on top of the part on the wing can easily run inside. This norally happen when not parked on the level or with a prevailing wind or worse still both.

On many "B" this is where the water get into the car running down and under the floot mat.

We don't trust ours any more and when parked outside put a half car cover over the to hood/screen/local bodywork.

When out driving in the rain airflow seems to keep the water from entering the car.

Personally I don't think we'll ever buy a convertible car ever again, certainly not in the UK climate. Same amost goes for a sunroof. Had problems with those as well.