Technical Dipstick keeps popping up, then sprays oil :(

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Technical Dipstick keeps popping up, then sprays oil :(

dtimmins1985

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Evening all,

Noticed my 1.2 had lost some oil, my dipstick was stuck up out of the recess about an inch and oil had misted the bonnet, back of engine and alternator then gone down to the sump... in a kind of thin mist.

There is also a red screw valve thing with a chrome ring around it below the injection system (unsure what it is) that was covered in a gold mist.

I cleaned it up, topped up oil, put the dipstick back down properly, checked it over a few days and it was fine.

Two weeks later, night before the last I had gone to the shops, car was warmed up, could smell warm oil when I got out, saw a bit of smoke coming from the bonnet, popped it open and saw oil again just like before and part of it was burning off.

The dipstick had popped up again, about half an inch.
Cleaned it all up today, it's not popped out again yet but why is it doing this? Oil level topped up again and it's just below max.

Using 10w40 semi, done near 98k now, bit worried as the spray was much worse now, alternator was soaked, cambelt cover half soaked, all back of the head and also lots on the cam cover.

I noticed mayonnaise halfway down the dipstick but once cleaned and redipped it's clean oil, I think that condensation may have turned a bit of old oil in the dip stick tube, not a major issue but if it's popping out then maybe that's how condensation has built up in the tube and mixed with residue of oil in there... coolant still looks healthy, oil cap looks fine and from top view inside the filler hole looks good, no loss of power or anything, I think the thermostat is stuck open as it does take it a while to warm up...sometimes 15-20mins....

Any ideas?
 
Thanks Darren, do you think eper will show where this is?

Checked again tonight after a spirit drive through 1st to 3rd and it hasn't popped out again yet! Still worried tho, have eper to hand but it can be a pain...
 
Could be blocked in the pipe (item 3), or the flame trap (item 2) in the first diagram below. Or the pipe (item 5) in the second diagram.

Most likely place is the flame trap. It's a spiral coil of brass wire, bit like a Brillo pad.
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I was thinking about this last night...
The cam breather with flame trap on my 1.2 is split where it connects to the intake pipe.
I have secured it with a jubilee clip until I could source a new pipe (the sleeve part 5 in image 2) fiat want £30+ for it... ludicrous.

I'll check the cam side of it to see if the flame trap is present and not blocked.
Then it's onto other items.

I might take the plunge and sell it cheap to a friend who wants one for spares.
I have finally found a sporting multi jet 150 that's had a new clutch and dual mass flywheel, not sure if the guy will still have it next Thursday, I'm serious now about letting this motor go... I've just had enough of the constant issue after issue.

Failing the multijet 150, I will go down the bravo route and try drag it out until may when I can afford to spend £4K tops..
 
I was thinking about this last night...
The cam breather with flame trap on my 1.2 is split where it connects to the intake pipe.
I have secured it with a jubilee clip until I could source a new pipe (the sleeve part 5 in image 2) fiat want £30+ for it... ludicrous.

I'll check the cam side of it to see if the flame trap is present and not blocked.
Then it's onto other items.

I might take the plunge and sell it cheap to a friend who wants one for spares.
I have finally found a sporting multi jet 150 that's had a new clutch and dual mass flywheel, not sure if the guy will still have it next Thursday, I'm serious now about letting this motor go... I've just had enough of the constant issue after issue.

Failing the multijet 150, I will go down the bravo route and try drag it out until may when I can afford to spend £4K tops..

Depending on exactly what car you're going for - beware the M32 boxes on some of the 1.9 jtdm models. Make sure you read up on it and understand what you're looking for when viewing.
 
Thanks Artemis, the seller seems to know his fiats and he has already advised that this has the m32 6 speed, I asked if it was the same as the GM ones found in the astras and he said it was not, I was lead to believe that there is 3 variants of the gearbox, one GM, one Fiat and another buy Alfa Romeo... is this correct or are they all the same?
 
Thanks Artemis, the seller seems to know his fiats and he has already advised that this has the m32 6 speed, I asked if it was the same as the GM ones found in the astras and he said it was not, I was lead to believe that there is 3 variants of the gearbox, one GM, one Fiat and another buy Alfa Romeo... is this correct or are they all the same?

I'm not so sure... I've not heard of the different variants so cant comment on whether that is fact or not. What I have heard of is common problems across all marques - its all about worn bearings.
 
Thanks Artemis, the seller seems to know his fiats and he has already advised that this has the m32 6 speed, I asked if it was the same as the GM ones found in the astras and he said it was not, I was lead to believe that there is 3 variants of the gearbox, one GM, one Fiat and another buy Alfa Romeo... is this correct or are they all the same?

Personally, as the owner of a 150 HP Croma with the M32 box, I think the scare stories about the M32 are inflated. I seems to be down to a combination of incorrect oil levels and possibly a couple some bad bearings (different make bearings have been fitted at different times). There are thousands of them out there and it's a relatively rare issue. Nobody posts to say "my M32 is fine". If it's survived this long, is not making noises and the gearstick does not move when you come on and off power, it will likely be fine. If you want to keep long term do a drain and refill with the right oil. You have to drain as there is no way of checking the oil level.


Robert G8RPI.
 
i did a gearbox oil change on my 150 a while ago
there is a plastic dipstick on the top of the diff housing
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/416069-jtdm-16v-6-speed-gearbox-oil-change.html
also over the years ive nothing to prove whats in ny car but now also suspect it may be other than a m32 (especially when you look at quick shift kits etc)the linkages are different.maybe a c630 6 in there ?(and different oil levels)
unless any fiat techs can dig and confirm still in the dark.
the alfa side are in the same boat not really knowing what box they got.
anyway the increase of failures definately appears linked to tuning( even if not the torque the more likely to be driven hard when tuned) but also plenty of failures on shopping cars.
infact ive just recently had a drive in an insignia with this whine in 6th , passed along details of what can be done by who.
but if on a test drive id say best to try to get a test drive on smooth road or carriageway and get into 6th and listen carefully for any whining gentle application of power and let off .
while your at it check for gearstick ,self centering
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/355559-stiff-gears.html
if you search im sure theres been more things to check like egr,swirl flaps, cambelt, a good run to get up to 90c would be advisable a thermostat was expensive and not a quick / easy job.
ive gone through loads of front discs so warped fronts a possibility.
 
Hi there,

one possible reason of high engine internal pressure is "leaking" piston rings. Their sealing capability is actually due to the thin oil film on the cylinder wall; and this film might be altered by an enriched mixture (rinsing-off), thus allowing combustion gases migrating to the crankcase housing and possibly popping-up the oil stick.

Q: Why an enriched mixture ?
A: ECU will enrich the mixture in a cold engine

As the thermostat seems stuck open (15-20 min to warm-up) the ECU might consider the engine is still cold, compensate for this and finally get the oil rinsed from cylinders. One should not consider a thermostat issue as a minor one, they've been implemented in very early engines for some good reasons...

Regards, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix or understand your issue, hit the thanks button, it's free !!
 
A compression test to see if there is a piston ring issue?

Compression test was done and all cylinders where roughly all the same.
No big differences between each test - as suspected the compression is fine.

It's not happened since, i am pointing the blame to the flame trap as there was a little oil around the base of the pipe on the cam cover but this has since gone and not come back - that makes me think it was partially blocked.

Anyhow, just one a best offer on a multijet sporting 150 - what i always wanted so fingers crossed he will wait until 24th for me to go and collect / pay - its 150miles away and i need to arrange a friend to take me to collect it. :slayer:
 
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