Technical Clutch problems

[Tredanliz]

I have a 2000 (W) multipla diesel.

The clutch has always operated close to the floor but, about a year ago, it started to 'stick' (i.e. wouldn't completely disengage) during a long journey (100 miles or so). After a rest, the clutch would work normally again.

The situation has steadily deteriorated, and now the clutch sticks after ten miles or so but, again, works normally after the car has not been driven for a few hours.

So, the question is: do I need a new clutch, or is there a different problem (slave/master cylinder?)?

Any help/advice gratefully received!

Thanks,

Ant

 

[Snoo]

2 thoughts. One is the clutch master cylinder. Sometimes the spring inside snaps. I'd look at this first. The second is that the clutch arm is not pushing the slave cylinder back after you release the clutch.

I'd suggest replacing the mast cyl spring first. I actually have a brand new master cylinder as I did a spring swap but my old spring was perfectly fine (I needed a clutch). If you paypal me the postage fee you can have the master cylinder. Spring Replacement (Easier than replacing the whole cylinder) is documented on this forum. Pretty straight forward (just a little messy).

 

[Pandabloke]

Hi there.

Just as a very outside chance, try lubricating the clutch arm. Worth a go before fitting a clutch.

I did this recently because I was struggling to get in to reverse.

Here's the thread - https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/293994-problems-going-into-gear-solved.html

Hope this helps.

Panda

 

[Tredanliz]

Thanks for the help! Someone suggested replacing the fluid, as old fluid might get air bubbles in it. Worth trying, I suppose.

 

[Snoo]

Yep. Get yourself an Eazibleed and a 'one man bleed' pipe if you are bleeding the system.

 

[Tredanliz]

Never bled the clutch in this car - anyone point me to a blow-by-blow account, or do I have to struggle all by myself?

 

[Snoo]

Well, for a start get your eazibleed, fill it with Dot 4 and connect it up to the clutch resevoir (clear plastic tub -Top middle of engine bay).

Look down under the battery tray and you'll see the black plastic slave master cylinder. Connect your one-way bleed tube to the bleed nipple on top and stick the other end in a jam jar.
On the metal pipe that comes out of the slave cyl is a clip. pry it up a notch with a little flat blade screwdriver. Then pull the pipe out about 1cm. Fluid should now bleed into the jam jar. Continue until you get fresh fluid coming out. Remember to check your eazibleed level so you don't put air into the system. Push the pipe back in and the clip down when finished.

It's a lot easier to do with the airbox and battery tray removed. But I've done it without because I've got dainty hands!!

 

[Tredanliz]

Cheers, Snoo, that helps - was wondering why there was a bleed nipple without a thread!

Don't suppose you could tell me how to replace the master cylinder spring as well, could you?

 

[Snoo]

There is an explanation somewhere on this forum or the multi repairs site. I'll try to dig out where.

Basically get down in the drivers footwell and you unclip the top of the piston from the clutch pedal. Then there is a clip you slide across on the mast cyl to remove the piston rod. You then remove the plunger bar and the spring is under that. Make sure you carefully remove all parts of the spring if it is broken. Be careful not to score the inside of the cylinder with any tools you use to remove the spring. I used a crochet hook type thing. Fluid will pour over the footwell a bit so put some sheeting down.

I've got some mast cyl picture at home I can post. Like I say, I have a spare mast cylinder if you would like it.

 

[Tredanliz]

Thanks again, Snoo. I'm just about to start bleeding; if that doesn't fix things, I'll get back to you about the master cylinder. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[widemouthfrog]

This thread might be worth a read as well:

https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/235408-multipla-clutch-problem-biting-point-floor.html

 

[Tredanliz]

Okay - I lubed the clutch arm and renewed the clutch fluid, but, after a 20m test drive, there is no change in the clutch performance.

Not sure what to do next. There seems to be quite a bit of play between the clutch arm and the slave cylinder. If I pull the arm so it fits snug with the slave, the clutch will not disengage properly - i.e. I create the problem I'm trying to fix. Could I need a new slave cylinder?

I think I'll take it to the garage for a second opinion tomorrow morning, and trust to their know-how (and integrity, of course!).

 

[Tredanliz]

Hi Snoo,

Still have problems with clutch - is the offer of your old master cylinder still on? If so, please let me know how to send you money. I have a paypal account.

Many thanks,

Tredanliz

 

[boilermansab]

I've got a perfectly good slave cylinder you could have...if I could have the master cylinder??
I'm in the same boat at the moment with weird pedal feel...and the change of master cylinder is next...

 

[cooky257]

It's worth trying all the cheaper fixes to rule them out,but I would say almost certainly your clutch is knackered.
You didnt state your mileage,the clutches can pack up from as little as 60000k. If your really unlucky you might need a dmf as well, plus change the gearbox mainshaft oil seal. Partsbuy have some cracking prices on dmf/clutch kits. Oil seal is a couple of quid.

 

[widemouthfrog]

The crank seal behind the DMF isn't quite that cheap.....

 

[Tredanliz]

Hi Cooky,

I've already replaced the clutch! - but not the DMF. Now I'm trying to eliminate all other possibilities, as no-ine I know has a clue what the problem is. Who would believe that a simple hydraulic clutch could be so arcane!

 

[Tredanliz]

Does anyone else out there know the cheapest (legal!) way to obtain a clutch master cylinder spring?

 

[Snoo]

There seems to be quite a bit of play between the clutch arm and the slave cylinder. If I pull the arm so it fits snug with the slave, the clutch will not disengage properly -

Re-reading this... Can you give a bit more detail as this doesn't seem right. Maybe a quick vid on your phone and post to youtube?

Slave should always have contact with the clutch arm. When you release the clutch the arm should push the slave cylinder piston back a bit. If this isn't happening then it's the arm mechanism at fault.