Technical Clutch master cylinder

[balldee1]

Hi Guys,
2008 Facelift Multipla 1.9 JTD Multijet is playing up again and is currently at the doctors, who are unable to source a clutch master cylinder.
Anyone out there know where I can source one. I've tried a lot of places and even contacted Fiat Head Office to no avail!
Desperate to get her back on the road.
Any help would be gratefully received.

 

[Davren]

Appears to be Fiat part number 51775173.

Shop4Parts have a genuine Fiat one for £110.58 including VAT.

Clutch Master Cylinder 51775173

www.shop4parts.co.uk

 

[HughJarsse]

Also found this one too.

Fiat Multipla Master cylinder

www.fiatworkshop.co.uk

Hope this helps..

 

[jackwhoo]

I have a seal kit Somewhere, if you want to buy it from me let me know and I will check still have it.

Easiest repair is working in the footwell remove the innards fit new seals and replace.
If the piston return spring is broken ....I don't have one.

Cheers
Jack

 

[balldee1]

I have a seal kit Somewhere, if you want to buy it from me let me know and I will check still have it.

Easiest repair is working in the footwell remove the innards fit new seals and replace.
If the piston return spring is broken ....I don't have one.

Cheers
Jack

Not capable myself, and garage fully recommends cylinder replacement. Thank you for your input though. Regards, Steve

 

[bugsymike]

Not capable myself, and garage fully recommends cylinder replacement. Thank you for your input though. Regards, Steve

If master cylinder not available, personally I would be very grateful for a repair kit to suit, any competent garage should be able to fit it.
In the past that was all we ever had available.
I understand from a warranty point of view fitting a new part from their preferred supplier is the best option, but if a kit got your vehicle back on the road as opposed to scrapping it, which would you prefer, even without a warranty?

 

[HughJarsse]

If master cylinder not available, personally I would be very grateful for a repair kit to suit, any competent garage should be able to fit it.
In the past that was all we ever had available.
I understand from a warranty point of view fitting a new part from their preferred supplier is the best option, but if a kit got your vehicle back on the road as opposed to scrapping it, which would you prefer, even without a warranty?

2 people have offered links to new parts, readily available, so not sure why there is a need to use a repair kit, if garage not happy to do so??
Could understand if there were no parts, but there are!!

 

[bugsymike]

Probably why I used the word "if".
All I was pointing out was that seal kits were often an economical way of repairing things and providing the cylinder the piston is running in is not damaged and care taken can be a reliable repair.
Over the years I have successfully replaced seals in brake servos, master cylinders and slave cylinders/wheel cylinders, hydraulic rams etc.
I suspect many vintage cars on the road, where cylinders unobtainable have been repaired with seal kits.

 

[jackwhoo]

Replacing the clutch master complete is a real pain of a task on multipla and risks damaging the clutch pipes-which are expensive and not easy to find.
Lots of mechanics would take a time saving
(cost saving for customer) approach of sourcing a new master cylinder but only using the new piston , seals, return spring , fitting from foot well side.

Just a choice of how to approach the job

 

[Longprest]

I once tried to help out 'balldee 1' when he was desperate for a rear axle by that I presumed he meant subframe.
Considering the rarity of these items I thought he would have jumped at the chance for £45, it did need new raduis arm bearings but didn't even get a polite reply to thank me for the offer.
Some people are just ungrateful and not worth trying to help.
I fear I may have negative comments for this response but on the whole have found this forum generally used by helpful and supportive individuals.
I have now sadly sold my Multipla 'The Frog' and it goes to its new home next week.
Wishing all supportive members all the best with their unique cars.

 

[bugsymike]

Can be a tricky one, I had a go at a bloke for not getting back on a deal, he apologised but had been seriously ill in hospital, but now better and wanted to proceed. Oops!

 

[AhoBakaSaru]

I have a seal kit Somewhere, if you want to buy it from me let me know and I will check still have it.

Easiest repair is working in the footwell remove the innards fit new seals and replace.
If the piston return spring is broken ....I don't have one.

Cheers
Jack

Seal kit still available? I’m sure that’s where mine is taking in air.

 

[HughJarsse]

Can be a tricky one, I had a go at a bloke for not getting back on a deal, he apologised but had been seriously ill in hospital, but now better and wanted to proceed. Oops!

I have twice posted help on this forum, having gone to the trouble of grovelling under/inside the multi to take pics, and post to help out a poster.
Strangely, the said poster then again posts the same question again a few weeks later, in a new post!
I again posted the complete reply to his original post, pics and all, gently pointing out the reply to his first post, and never heard from him, and don't think he posted again..
Must admit, there have also been those who are grateful for help provided, so worth the effort I think.
Happy to try to help where I can, and if ignored, well, their loss. You live and learn.

 

[jackwhoo]

Steve, it's worth fishing out the return spring under piston just to check it's not broken
Jack

 

[AhoBakaSaru]

Steve, it's worth fishing out the return spring under piston just to check it's not broken
Jack

Will definitely check that. I’ve had the master cylinder dismantled a few times but couldn’t see or feel the spring. How far down should it be? currently there is no resistance when inserting the piston all the way until it’s flush with the cylinder.

 

[jackwhoo]

Will definitely check that. I’ve had the master cylinder dismantled a few times but couldn’t see or feel the spring. How far down should it be? currently there is no resistance when inserting the piston all the way until it’s flush with the cylinder.

If you feel resistance when the top of the piston is about at the top of the master cylinder then the spring is almost certainly fine, phew.
If spring broken the piston would sit much lower in the cylinder making it very hard to extract the piston.

 

[AhoBakaSaru]

If you feel resistance when the top of the piston is about at the top of the master cylinder then the spring is almost certainly fine, phew.
If spring broken the piston would sit much lower in the cylinder making it very hard to extract the piston.

That’s great! Thank you very much for your help. Hopefully by the weekend I won’t need to double declutch and swear lots

 

[AhoBakaSaru]

New seals in the master cylinder did the trick!
System still possibly needs bleeding but at the moment I have a working clutch with no grinding of gears when selecting 1st or Revers.

 

[AhoBakaSaru]

New seals in the master cylinder did the trick!
System still possibly needs bleeding but at the moment I have a working clutch with no grinding of gears when selecting 1st or Revers.

Was notably more resistance when inserting the piston into the cylinder with the new seals.

How many Multiplas must have been scrapped because a garage told someone ‘nah mate, it needs a new clutch’ when it was just a small piece of nitrile rubber

 

[Tubthumper73]

Mine has graunched into first and reverse since I've had it and wonder whether it's the master cylinder? I had always assumed the springs on the clutch had gone unspringy, especially as the pedal is quite hard.

How easy is it to replace the seals on the master?