Technical Clutch issues

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Technical Clutch issues

mtimm

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2010 Fiat 500 1.2
Clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing and fork replaced 18 months ago.
Any ideas on what caused this or where to start looking for problems
 

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2010 Fiat 500 1.2
Clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing and fork replaced 18 months ago.
Any ideas on what caused this or where to start looking for problems
If parts good quality and correctly fitted excessive wear on clutch fingers sorry to say, usually down to driver resting their foot on the pedal.
If you go on a clutch manufacturers website you will probably find an area dedicated to clutch failure symptoms.
I see your model still uses a release arm pivoting on plastic bushes, if they are sticking it could cause the issue although I would expect the fitter to notice that when replacing the clutch.
So my diagnosis is either sticking clutch release arm or driver.;)
 
If parts good quality and correctly fitted excessive wear on clutch fingers sorry to say, usually down to driver resting their foot on the pedal.
If you go on a clutch manufacturers website you will probably find an area dedicated to clutch failure symptoms.
I see your model still uses a release arm pivoting on plastic bushes, if they are sticking it could cause the issue although I would expect the fitter to notice that when replacing the clutch.
So my diagnosis is either sticking clutch release arm or driver.;)
Luk clutch kit fitted. Genuine fiat replacement fork.
The bushings were replaced but not genuine as there was a 2 month wait for the genuine fiat ones
 
The original one was badly worn. I was told it's common enough for that to happen
So it is possible the new non genuine bushes were too tight on the release arm shaft and caused your problem, though I would have thought the fitter would have noticed that.
Luk clutches are a good popular OEM choice and are reliable in my opinion.
 
So it is possible the new non genuine bushes were too tight on the release arm shaft and caused your problem, though I would have thought the fitter would have noticed that.
Luk clutches are a good popular OEM choice and are reliable in my opinion.
I can't comment on when fitted but the fork is certainly moving freely now.
 
Hi :)

Thats a case of the fingers being worn away by the bearing... but why

Tell us more :)

What engine.. what gearbox

Miles covered between fixed.. total miles

Plenty of lifetime served mechanics on here to tell you the likely story :cool:
1.2 petrol, 5 speed manual
Total miles 145k
miles since clutch changed about 9k
 
Thats enough miles.. :)

Plenty of scope for general wear and tear..
Youve had all the obvious 'clutch wear components' attended to :cool:

How about the hydraulics..??

Im wondering if that is dragging ( slow to realease ) you could envisage extra bearing to finger contact
The new clutch has only done 9,000 miles so something is not right?
 
mtimm, you haven't told us yet if we can exclude driver causes? I was taught to drive by "Old Mr Scott" who had many little "tricks of the trade" which he passed on to his students. must have been good because I passed my test first time. Clutch abuse was one of his top favourites.

Your left foot should only be in contact with the pedal if you are operating the clutch and then for as brief a period of time as is reasonably possible. At all other times there needs to be air between the pedal and your foot. He went on to then detail times when actual damage can be done. So, for instance, holding the car in first gear on the clutch when on a hill to stop it running back when the handbrake would be more appropriate. Sitting at the likes of red traffic lights with the clutch pedal on the floor and first gear engaged while you wait for crossing traffic to clear and your lights to turn green. And so on and so on. In other words the clutch pedal should only be feeling the weight of your foot when you are needing to change gear or move off etc. It should not be used as a foot rest or be kept depressed for any length of time. Excessive engine revs with the clutch depressed will also, to a lesser extent, cause problems too.

With this in mind can we eliminate that as a likely reason? Then we can concentrate on other possible causes.
 
mtimm, you haven't told us yet if we can exclude driver causes? I was taught to drive by "Old Mr Scott" who had many little "tricks of the trade" which he passed on to his students. must have been good because I passed my test first time. Clutch abuse was one of his top favourites.

Your left foot should only be in contact with the pedal if you are operating the clutch and then for as brief a period of time as is reasonably possible. At all other times there needs to be air between the pedal and your foot. He went on to then detail times when actual damage can be done. So, for instance, holding the car in first gear on the clutch when on a hill to stop it running back when the handbrake would be more appropriate. Sitting at the likes of red traffic lights with the clutch pedal on the floor and first gear engaged while you wait for crossing traffic to clear and your lights to turn green. And so on and so on. In other words the clutch pedal should only be feeling the weight of your foot when you are needing to change gear or move off etc. It should not be used as a foot rest or be kept depressed for any length of time. Excessive engine revs with the clutch depressed will also, to a lesser extent, cause problems too.

With this in mind can we eliminate that as a likely reason? Then we can concentrate on other possible causes.
At this time I cannot eliminate the driver. It's mostly country driving not traffic so the actual journeys shouldn't be a problem.
So the driver is a possibility
 
Thats enough miles.. :)

Plenty of scope for general wear and tear..
Youve had all the obvious 'clutch wear components' attended to :cool:

How about the hydraulics..??

Im wondering if that is dragging ( slow to realease ) you could envisage extra bearing to finger contact
They hydraulics appeared to be ok before I pulled the box out. I will have to check it carefully when I put it all back together.
At this point it's down to the hydraulics not allowing the bearing retract fully or the driver.
 
At this time I cannot eliminate the driver. It's mostly country driving not traffic so the actual journeys shouldn't be a problem.
So the driver is a possibility
That is when it becomes a problem, as none of us want to admit we are not perfect drivers.
Where we had a customer we knew and had a sense of humour, I used to say "I have found the cause of your problem, there is a nut loose behind your steering wheel" and then wait for them to twig it!;)
 
I have a choice between Sachs or Valeo clutch kit.
Would there be a general preference of one over the other.

Thanks for all the help and advice
 
That is when it becomes a problem, as none of us want to admit we are not perfect drivers.
Where we had a customer we knew and had a sense of humour, I used to say "I have found the cause of your problem, there is a nut loose behind your steering wheel" and then wait for them to twig it!;)
Oh but I am a perfect driver 😊. It's my wife's car. So that's a difficult subject to approach
 
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