Technical Clutch died on me today!!!

[dumbledore]

OK, Normally I am expecting some engine problems to spring up, but today while returning from home while going in a roundabout realized I cannot select gears, managed to get the car at a bus stop. My diagnosis was to do with the clutch. Hydraulics seemed fine to me. The AA guy came and confirmed the clutch pressure plate must be dead and toughed my car home. Now he said the clutch pedal felt heavy and this is a common sign of imminent failure.

Now the questions:
1. Is this common for the clutch to die without any warning?
2, Is the clutch job easy to do on this car?

Any tips welcomed.

 

[fingers99]

Let's say it's not uncommon. What seems to happen is that the thrust washer gives up and starts to eat therough the "fingers" on the pressure plate. Eventually it can even go straight through.

Hydraulics aside, it's very similar to doing it on the Cinq/Sei.

I'd follow the Haynes, except:

Leave the TREs and hub nuts well alone well alone -- if you undo hub nuts you should replace them, if you mess with the TREs you may damage them (and need to get the car tracked). So, the Rallycinq method:

Loosen the front wheelnuts, pop the car on axle stands so the front wheels are off the ground, remove wheels. Spray the 2 bottom stud mounts (each side) with a genuine, bona fide, made for the job, penetrating oil the night before. Retire for the night.

Next day, undo the strut bolts, remove the innermost clip on the inner CV joint, and a tug on the disk should unpop the CV joints. Put a plastic bag round them and tie out of the way.

Everything else as by the Haynes. Replace the entire clutch (3 parts), use a Clutch Mate (less than a tenner, and a wonderful, wonderful, tool), use big tie wraps to replace the CV joint clips.

 

[dumbledore]

Thanks Fingers,
Looks like I have some work to do. Happy about verdict. Should be able to confirm when I get around to fix it. The full clutch kit for this car looks quite cheap. Still wondering how much will a garage charge to do a clutch job on my car though, including the tough to the garage?

 

[fingers99]

In the 'pool. it's usually about 110 - 120 + parts.

But it is a pretty easy job. Helps to have a engine hoist and/or someone strong to pop the gearbox on/off.

 

[dumbledore]

I am having some second thoughts. I want to rule out any gearbox issues. Any things I can try to rule out the box. One thing I will do first thing in the morning is try to start the car in gear and clutch pressed. If it starts I might have a gearbox issues I suppose.

 

[dumbledore]

Did the following test first think in the morning.
Put the car into gear press the clutch and start the engine. That work fine. Tried to use the clutch to move, that went OK. Changed a few gears while pressing the clutch and all looked normal. Then again stopped getting into the gears. Stopped the engine and repeated above again. However, I now could hear noises from the clutch area when I am pressing the clutch. So looks like the pressure plate is not releasing the cluch properly and the gear box should be fine.

 

[dumbledore]

Started the clutch job this evening. So lifted the front up put on axel stands. Removed the battery and all the bits from the top of the gearbox so that the box goes down. Looks like I need a new slave cylinder as it disintegrated. Also the fluid inside it was very dirty. Looks like I need a few day this to do slowly.
My question here is that I am tempted to remove the box with the drive shafts connected and will only remove the drive shafts from the wheels. Is this possible? If so it will save me a lot of hassle.

 

[fingers99]

I don't think so. And it risks all the issues I mentioned up top.

 

[dumbledore]

remove the innermost clip on the inner CV joint, and a tug on the disk should unpop the CV joints.

Cheers fingers for the advice here. Struggling to understand this step. I assume inner CV joint you mean the joint on the gerabox side? If so what is the innermost clip? Do I need to remove the rubber boot to access the clip?

 

[fingers99]

The gearbox side(s), yes. The clip nearest the gearbox which holds the rubber boot onto the "cup".

 

[dumbledore]

The gearbox side(s), yes. The clip nearest the gearbox which holds the rubber boot onto the "cup".

Many Thanks, so this clip is the one I replace with the big tie wraps. I think I have a plan of action. I also checked the cost for slave cylinder, seem to be expensive for what they are (more expensive then the 3 piece clutch I ordered). A repair kit is only what I would need to fix mine, but can't see any readily available.

 

[blu73]

so this clip is the one I replace with the big tie wraps.

correct.

 

[dumbledore]

So if I remove the drive shafts with the disks attached out of the way is a good idea?

 

[blu73]

yeah leave the disc on, remove clips holding boots onto the cups on the diff, then when you take the two bolts holding the hub to the bottom of the shock you can pull the hub and brake etc out from the top and the driveshaft should fall out of the cup. Careful you don't drop it in a load of crud on the floor and get it wrapped in a plastic bag straight away to stop any grit or anything getting in the grease. Then use a cable tie to hold the whole thing up and out the way while the box comes off.

 

[dumbledore]

Cheers, Blue I just done this and it seem to have work. The drive shafts are out of the way so the transmission can drop. No my next question is? Does the starter motor really have to come off as the heynes manual suggests?

 

[blu73]

think so yeah, its no big task though once you start, few wires and 4 bolts.

 

[dumbledore]

Just managed to drop the box. I replaced the clutch. The cause of failure was 1 broken spring (from four) on the clutch friction plate. The loose spring was causing the the clutch not to disengage properly. Fitted the new clutch and managed to up the gearbox. Managed to destroy the rear gearbox mount though so I need a new one before putting all bits back together. Managed to shear the centre bolt in the mount. The mount still works but I suspect once I drive a bit the mount will fail.

 

[tinytim]

The rubber often perishes on the rear gearbox mount so good to be replacing it anyway; there will be a lot of vibration if not replaced.
Suggest check ?replace cv boots if showing signs of perishing etc.

 

[dumbledore]

OK need some help now. Managed to put things together and went for a test drive. The clutch seem to be working good, but gearbox stick is too sloppy. I can select revers, but don't seem to have 1st and 2nd gear at all. Check the Heynes manual but is not helping. It appears that there is a rod and a cable. I suspect the cable does the gear changes and not sure what the rod is doing. Any help will be appreciated.

 

[fingers99]

I think one does fore and aft movements of the stick, the other left and right. More than that, I'm not sure. Check that all the clips, and balls and cups, etc. are in place.