Technical Cleaning oil filter - do I need to compress engine spring before removing rear panel?

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Technical Cleaning oil filter - do I need to compress engine spring before removing rear panel?

Noah500

1971 Fiat 500L LHD
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I've got a nice new shiny alloy 'Abarth' sump waiting to go on but before I fit it I'm going to clean the centrifugal oil filter which I suspect hasn't been cleaned for ages. Once everything's back it's get a fillup of nice new 20W50 classic oil.

Per other guides I know that I need to support the engine under the sump before removing the rear panel but is there anything special to do to the engine mount spring before removing that panel, e.g. compress it/lock it in the compressed position to make it easier to refit everything when it goes back on?
 
Some people find it easy enough to get at the filter without removing the back panel. I prefer to remove it. I used to faff about with that spring until I discovered that it's easier to do it by slowly and equally removing the two,17mm nuts that hold the whole caboodle to the engine. Having first removed the four nuts securing the engine cross-member. You need to take care as that spring holds a lot of energy. there can be a bit of frustrating "wiggle-negotiation" extracting everything safely, but especially when replacing eveything, this method is much easier than the alternative of trying to compress the spring and get the M8 bolts in place.
 
Some people find it easy enough to get at the filter without removing the back panel. I prefer to remove it. I used to faff about with that spring until I discovered that it's easier to do it by slowly and equally removing the two,17mm nuts that hold the whole caboodle to the engine. Having first removed the four nuts securing the engine cross-member. You need to take care as that spring holds a lot of energy. there can be a bit of frustrating "wiggle-negotiation" extracting everything safely, but especially when replacing eveything, this method is much easier than the alternative of trying to compress the spring and get the M8 bolts in place.
As Peter has mentioned, the centrifugal filter CAN be cleaned out with the rear cross-member left in situ. Althought the retaining bolts for the filter cover looked to be evenly spaced around, they in fact will only fit in one position. Although the cover is marked (the timing marks align), it is easier to put a dab of tipex (or similar) in adjecent positions for re-fitting. The 'gunge' in the filter-cover and inside the pulley will look and feel like rubber, but I assure you, it IS the centrifuged muck from the oil. When you take the cover off, have a pan under the pulley/filter-cover to catch the oil that will come out---it is more than a 'thimble-full'
 
Take some pics of what you found inside please and post here for others to see. IMO do it in situ except if you want to take a look of what's the inside condition chain etc
 
OK... I'm just abut ready to do this. One more question before I do: I did a trial to fit a spanner on one of the bolt heads and I can't turn the bolt because the whole unit turns: is there a way to 'lock' it in place so I can easily undo the bolts, or what's the best technique for removing the bolts?
 
I think if you hold the generator pulley with your other hand it will start turning and they will come out, they are not that tight.
 
....or put the car in gear.
Look out for a little "nib" on the filter cover where you can put a flat-blade screwdriver to lever it off.
Peter I was about to write an even more complicated Tric to remove it and then you just said "put the gear in"
 
...but holding the pulley worked :)

If you have access to a welder and enough of your life left to spare for frivolities ;) it's worth making a special tool to secure the pulley. It's really most useful when working on the dynamo generator. Get hold of a few of the three-holed spacers that are used on the pulley and tack-weld them at the edges to make one solid disc. Get a big, old old spanner or similar with a bit of length, cut an end off and then weld this to the edge of the disc. You then have an almost factory tool that you can slip over the three pulley studs to easily hold the thing from turning.

Another tip that would almost certainly have loosened the screws is to hold a ring spanner firmly onto the hexagon-head of the bolts and to give a firm chap on the end of the spanner, using a hammer.
 
Thanks... though I don't have access to a welder. I think a simpler way of making a tool would be to cut a rough lollipop shape from mild steel and use one of the spacers to mark holes in the right place. Drill out the holes and get presto!

Actually, I did have the additional issue that the belt was slipping a bit, so holding the pulley wasn't a 100% answer
 
Thanks... though I don't have access to a welder. I think a simpler way of making a tool would be to cut a rough lollipop shape from mild steel and use one of the spacers to mark holes in the right place. Drill out the holes and get presto!

Actually, I did have the additional issue that the belt was slipping a bit, so holding the pulley wasn't a 100% answer
Why find an easier way when there's a complex way to solve a problem?
;)
 
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