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General CInq clutch...

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General CInq clutch...

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Tabblink182

Civic type-r Driver
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Will be changing my cinq clutch soon as i have just brought a kit off of ebay for a tidy some of £30, which is cheap considering the garage wanted more or less £300 for fitting it.

:eek:

i will be changing the clutch, pressure plate and thrust bearing.....

Just putting the question out there, is there anything obvious to be aware of or any pointers anyone can give, ive read through haynes manual and it seems pretty simple...

ill also takes lots of digital photos and write up a FAQ/Guide as i cant see one on there as of yet......

thanks in advance.....
 
Tabblink182 said:
Will be changing my cinq clutch soon as i have just brought a kit off of ebay for a tidy some of £30, which is cheap considering the garage wanted more or less £300 for fitting it.

:eek:

i will be changing the clutch, pressure plate and thrust bearing.....

Just putting the question out there, is there anything obvious to be aware of or any pointers anyone can give, ive read through haynes manual and it seems pretty simple...

ill also takes lots of digital photos and write up a FAQ/Guide as i cant see one on there as of yet......

thanks in advance.....
Click to expand...
hey is it the performance clutch witch i think is the omp one or is it a standard one :) ,,,, o and do you have the tool to line the clutch up ?
 
standard for standard....

and no, im hoping there is some chalk marks there for me already, or ill mark them before i remove it ?

im pretty much just winging this as im skint and need the car moving

lol
 
There is no spigot bearing so you need to make sure the driven plate is centered spot on.

Don't remove the starter motor bolts from their holes. Just undo them and leave them loose. Its a sod of a job to get the inner one back in.

The most difficult bit is making sure that the release bearing stays on its mounts as you put the box back in. Its too easy to hit the release bearing arm off something while wiggling the box into position. You don't want to find its popped after you've got it all bolted in.

Cheers

D
 
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ahh ok, i get what u mean, ill bear that in mind when im under the car and probaly ( due to the amazing whether we have here in the uk) soaking wet with rain

:/

EDIT : and oil for that metter
 
Last edited:
Tabblink182 said:
standard for standard....

and no, im hoping there is some chalk marks there for me already, or ill mark them before i remove it ?

im pretty much just winging this as im skint and need the car moving

lol
Click to expand...
ahh right ,, umm im not sure if there is any chalk marks or anything like that if you dont have the tool i think you will have to try and get it spot on by your eyes lol;) im just thinking back to when i done a clutch on a mk1 punto but i had the tool for that , if im wrong on this advice im sure someone will correct me m8 :p
 
well by what ive gathered...the clutch will slip in the splines and the pressure plate bolts on top, the release bearing is the thing im trying to line up right ???
 
Tabblink182 said:
well by what ive gathered...the clutch will slip in the splines and the pressure plate bolts on top, the release bearing is the thing im trying to line up right ???
Click to expand...

You can't push something through the splines during the lining up procedure because there is not a bearing inside the end of the crank. This means that the hole in the end of the crank is bigger than the hole in the driven plate. You must have the driven plate centrally mounted before offering up the gear box or the splines won't line up in the correct place to allow you to get the gearbox bolted in.

The type of clutch aligning tool need is the one that clamps the driven plate to the cover in the right place and then you bolt the cover up.

Cheers

D
 
something like this.

Cheers

D
 

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Tabblink182 said:
so the alignment tool puts the clutch plate dead center with the frtiction plate ?
Click to expand...

I would say a clutch palte and a friction plate are the same thing.

In my simple little brain in a three part clutch you have:-

1) Driven plate: This is the one with the friction material on both sides and the splines in the middle.

2) Cover: This is the bit with the big pointy springs on

3) Release bearing: The bearing that goes over the input shaft.

The cover lines up on dowels on the flywheel and is then bolted into place. You can't get it wrong. The driven plate must be centred in the cover which is easy to do when you have the right (clutch) tool. If it is centred in the cover it will automatically be centred on the flywheel which is the really important part.

Cheers

D
 
rallycinq said:
I would say a clutch palte and a friction plate are the same thing.

In my simple little brain in a three part clutch you have:-

1) Driven plate: This is the one with the friction material on both sides and the splines in the middle.

2) Cover: This is the bit with the big pointy springs on

3) Release bearing: The bearing that goes over the input shaft.

The cover lines up on dowels on the flywheel and is then bolted into place. You can't get it wrong. The driven plate must be centred in the cover which is easy to do when you have the right (clutch) tool. If it is centred in the cover it will automatically be centred on the flywheel which is the really important part.

Cheers

D
Click to expand...

I've always known the clutch parts as:

1. Clutch friction plate

2. Pressure plate

3. Release bearing


I also used a similar tool to the one that RallyCinq showed when doing the clutch on my Uno FIRE. You basically use the aligning tool to centralise the friction plate and the pressure plate together off the car, then you bolt the pair of them to the fly wheel and then you remove the aligning tool. If you do it right then the friction plate splines will be perfectly aligned with the pressure plate 'fingers'.

It is also possibly to align the friction plate and pressure plate without an aligning tool. You can use a socket drive that is about the same diameter to just fit inside the pressure plate fingers, loosely bolt the clutch and pressure plate assembly to the flywheel and then wiggle the friction disc so that the inside of the socket centralises on it. Do that and check by eye, then tighten the assembly. I managed to use this method when doing the clutch on my Cinq Soleil though I must admit that you really need to have had some experience in this method to make it work. To be honest for the small amount it costs you're better off buying one the aligning tools and having peace of mind.

I have yet another clutch to fit on my newly acquired Uno 70SX. I'll be doing that when it stops raining enough so that I can do it without sitting in puddles...
 
i used piece of copper pipe (the size that go's into household rads etc).

fits perfect in flywheel. just wiggle centreplate a bit (just nip nuts on cover so plate is pinched but moves) 'till it's in the middle.

done mine this way and it was perfect! box slipped on a treat i tell the!
 
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