Tuning Canterbury 695

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Tuning Canterbury 695

I only have 3.5 litres sump so standard pickup and I'm running castrol classic XL 20W-50
 
Engine is complete and ready to go!
God I've waited a while for that news!
Cannot wait to see what it goes and sounds like.... I have two exhaust systems and we will see which stays on....wheelie bars maybe needed!!?
 
Having just sorted the door hinge pins to get better closing - a question..
new pins and nylon inserts fitted....do I need a weld to hold the pins in place on the hinge?
There were small tack welds on the old pins that I had to grind off to get the buggers out.
There is nothing otherwise to stop them falling out????

New external and internal handles fitted......very nice!!!!
 
Went to pick up the beast of a power unit this afternoon.
It starts on first flick of the starter trigger...this is what i wanted to allow installation and then drive back to the engine builder for rolling road tuning.
It runs beautifully and sounds great..
Its a shame progress with rest of my build is behind - but six beautiful young children steal my attention too easily.
Twickenham tomorrow so only dreaming of my first proper drive.....

Interesting conversation regarding oil pressure with my engine builder....it appears that only 10 p.s.i. shows at what was the oil pressure switch position - but when measured at timing cover it shows 80 p.s.i.

I still need some advice regarding door hinges mentioned previous post..can anyone help please?
 
As I prepare to install my new power train - a question has arisen.
In the absence of a conventional air filter - where do I pipe the rocker box breather to?
 
Andy;
I found a length of suitably sized (and bent) water hose and led it down the back of the engine, supported where required by a 'P' bracket.
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I am in reciept of a re-built 126 gearbox and drive shaft assembly as a stop gap before fitting my five speeder.
The vendor assured me that 126 and 500 drive shafts are the same - where as knowledge gained from here says the 126 drive shafts are longer - what is the case please?:)

Collecting engine tomorrow....:cool:
 
Andrew
126 drive shafts are longer and can't be used on the 500. You will need to swap them for the thicker 25mm 500 ones. Standard ones are 19mm and I'm told can snap due to the extra torque
Damian
 
I am in reciept of a re-built 126 gearbox and drive shaft assembly as a stop gap before fitting my five speeder.
The vendor assured me that 126 and 500 drive shafts are the same - where as knowledge gained from here says the 126 drive shafts are longer - what is the case please?:)

Collecting engine tomorrow....:cool:

Maybe the gen 1 126 had the same length half shafts as it shared so much with 500 R and this is where the differing views come from.

Annoyingly I had the measured length of the thicker 500R shafts written down somewhere, but I just looked and can't find it. IRRC it was something like 34cm from the securing plate pushed in and ~ 36 at full extension.

I'll see if I get a chance to measure the standard thinner 500 ones before I leave later today

cheers, Steve
 
Thanks Steve
I have lost my confidence in the five speed conversion I've built.
Both Middle Barton and Ricambio Uk have had issues with the units failing due to poor quality components in the five speed kits.

My new engine is ready for installing this weekend and so I bought a good priced re-built four speeder to get me on the road.

The five speeder will go in - just a little later - hoping that it being a very powerful engine - doesn't increase its chance of failure...........

I hope the four speeder with drive shafts goes straight on the back of my engine so I can pop wheelies!!!!
 
Its ready!!
Minor snagging before the beast goes in.
 

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Andrew, categorically, the 126 drive-shafts are too long---you require the 25mm 500 shafts which are dead easy to change, if a little tedious.
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are the exhaust elbows to exhaust, flat set, high tensile bolts, required to be the specially designed type?
my engine builder has lost my set and replaced them with stainless socket heads with nylock nuts...worried that high temperatures might cause a problem...........
 
Hi Andrew

Sorry didn't get a chance to measure. Back now, and could measure today, but it looks like you are already there - congrats :)

SS bolts are ok in the application and in most cases nylocs would be fine at the end of a manifold, but on these ones their short length and nature of engine means the temps are too high. I used the long brass nuts on mine.

cheers, Steve
 
When I stripped my head I suffered a normal problem--some of the thread in the ally head came out with the steel bolts. I therefore fitted Memfast 'self tapping steel inserts' into the head, and made up long studs. 2 of the studs had to be 'stepped' studs as I had to go up to 10mm (into the head) and you must NOT drill out the exhaust elbows. The 'in the head' section of the studs were made long enough so that they 'bottomed out' on the side of the head (that way I knew they were tight) and the 'exhaust elbow' end of the stud was made long enough that I could fit 2 PLAIN nuts--1 to tighten and the other nut to lock-on to the first nut. If you use any sort of locking nut, if you ever have to undo them there is a risk that they will try and pull the stud out.
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The locking tabs that peter just highlighted are for the manifold/exhaust flange bolts/nuts---has anybody tried using them on the nuts (on the studs when studs are used into the cylinder head)?
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