Tuning Canterbury 695

[AndrewHarvey]

So L doesn't have centre mounted switch?

Seeing that I'm installing an original L loom - I guess I will be able to use the correct column key!

This will be a first on this project - re-instating an original feature AFTER a modification had been made......brownie points....

 

[stevehg]

I hope to buy a spring to give suitable tension.............

Looks very good, I like the look of the cast fan cowl top sections. Are you just using the castings with Giannini on, or are you replicating a particular Giannini model?

cheers, Steve

 

[AndrewHarvey]

mine is going to be a fast road car with standard bodywork but several period accessories.
Engine design work is standard proceedures, lightened, balanced, big bores, ported, big valves, big carb, stronger clutch and sport exhaust.
Five speed is to give it top speed so I can go distances
It isn't faithfull to any particular model......just my idea of what looks best.

Oh

and can pop wheelies!

 

[stevehg]

So L doesn't have centre mounted switch?

Seeing that I'm installing an original L loom - I guess I will be able to use the correct column key!

This will be a first on this project - re-instating an original feature AFTER a modification had been made......brownie points....

Based on what I've seen only, you have the earlier L's with the same centre dash ignition switch and no steering lock. You then seem to have the later ones with column mounted ignition switch and steering lock, with the centre hole blanked off. Some examples...

And this one...

And finally this one...

 

[AndrewHarvey]

So the engine is 1 day away and my engine builder has asked two questions that I thought I'd ask you my forum friends
Remote Oil filter?
Oil cooler?

As always your advice is most welcomed

 

[Paolo66]

Yes
Yes

 

[AndrewHarvey]

any particular products?

 

[AndrewHarvey]

http://www.fiat500sport.com/cooling...ooler-complete-kit-for-fiat-500-126-0214.html

any good?

 

[stevehg]

Naturally both are going to be better, just a matter of do you need them or do you want them.

Filter is better, but not a necessity. Again, the cooler will be an improvement, and the oil temp guage you are fitting will tell you if you need it or not.

Then there's do you want them?

cheers, Steve

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Decision made.
Following on from a chat with the engine builder it was decided that modifications to the standard set up were needed.
I have purchased a set up giving both a spin on filter and an oil cooler.
I took the new parts (no messing about!!) to the engine builder this afternoon and we sorted out the final details.
There is a blanking plug in the crankcase that we have removed giving us an oil return to the cooler, and the feed is through the oil pump cover that has a modified threaded inlet.
The cooler will be installed under the front panel near the horn, with braided pipes running through the tunnel.
Should give me the best setup possible protecting the engine as best I can.

Compression ratio of 10.1:1 achieved - no more possible without big spend.
Redlining @ 6750.....
Engine complete next Friday.....

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Some help please:
my engine builder has asked for some info
I'm running a 35 / 75 cam and he has asked what lift to set it at TDC
The information I have found is that it indicates 110 degrees

Does this sound correct?

 

[the hobbler]

Morning Andrew;
I also have a 35/75/75/35 cam in my engine---somewhere I have the specs for it. I have to dive out to Grandchildren's sports day, but as soon as I get back I will sort out the details and send them to you.

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Thanks Tom

This is my camshaft

https://www.fiat500ricambi.com/fiat500/Engine+parts/MO1117

 

[AndrewHarvey]

I need to know a lift atTDC at the pushrod or a full lift timing figure that is normaly between 100 and112 degrees for the 35/75 camshaft

I cannot get data sheet from supplier and I'm struggling to get this info

HELP PLEASE!!

 

[the hobbler]

Afternoon Andrew;
According to the 'bumph' card that came with my camshaft (purchased from Nathan Robertson) maximum lift is 7.2mm at 110 degrees. Inlet tappet setting is 0.2mm and exhaust is 0.25mm---hope this helps

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Hi Tom
Thanks for that information
This was the information that I had found also
My engine builder was stating that using the marks on the timing sprockets was very crude and inaccurate
"Like setting your points with a lollipop stick......"

This information is not what he was after.......we will just have to see what he comes up with....

 

[fiat500]

Bear in mind the caveat that I know nothing about modified engines, surely there is only a very narrow range of camshaft positions that will actually work at all in any case. Even one tooth variance on the cam-sprocket will shift things by a fair number of degrees...or am I missing something here?

PS. Intrigued by this I had a look around and found this excellent website which you may already know.
http://club126uk.co.uk/blitzracing/tuning.htm
I now understand..the cam-sprocket holes get elongated so the sprocket can be turned the few degrees to the correct position..
If I understand it correctly, you turn the crankshaft until it is 110 degrees after TDC, then set the camshaft so that the inlet lobes are at their highest point. I guess the timing chain will be fitted at this point, but the cam-sprocket is not bolted on. The sprocket mounting holes will not then align with the cam and need elongating to fit.
Thats the basics and there is a lot of detail neeeded to do this accurately, but I think Tom has given all the info your builder would need to achieve this.

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Many thanks Peter its wonderful to have such help and support

Your assistance is most appreciated

 

[the hobbler]

Andrew;
On the flange of the cam-shaft your builder will probably find 5 holes, 4 of which are for securing the sprocket to the camshaft. When he elongates the holes in the sprocket to get the timing spot on, he will somehow have to secure the sprocket to stop it moving out of adjustment. Blitz Racing suggest 'back-filling' the elongations with 'JP Weld', which in itself is a very good product. A better way to secure the camshaft securely to the sprocket is to 'tap' the 5th hole, drill a matching hole in the sprocket and put a small bolt through the sprocket into the flange.

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Engine nearly ready!!!