General Can't Pull Away - Brakes Stay On

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General Can't Pull Away - Brakes Stay On

fiatpanda42

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Hi,

I tried to pull away from being parked in my Panda today (04 plate) and found that I couldn't move :( It happens when I try both in first and reverse. The back of the car dips/rises as if the handbrake is still on. The brake lights are off, and the brake pedal seems to be fine, so I'm just wondering what the problem could be.

If the handbrake was staying on, then surely I wouldn't feel any resistance from the cable when I tried to put the handbrake on again? It doesn't feel like that though - it feels normal. Also, I'd have thought the car could overpower the handbrake given enough revs, but it just doesn't budge.

Any ideas? If not, I can't even drive it to the garage, so I'd have to call the AA out.
 
Hi,

I tried to pull away from being parked in my Panda today (04 plate) and found that I couldn't move :( It happens when I try both in first and reverse. The back of the car dips/rises as if the handbrake is still on. The brake lights are off, and the brake pedal seems to be fine, so I'm just wondering what the problem could be.

If the handbrake was staying on, then surely I wouldn't feel any resistance from the cable when I tried to put the handbrake on again? It doesn't feel like that though - it feels normal. Also, I'd have thought the car could overpower the handbrake given enough revs, but it just doesn't budge.

Any ideas? If not, I can't even drive it to the garage, so I'd have to call the AA out.

Well the obvious thing which comes to mind is that the handrake mechanism (not necessarily the cable as you say that feels normal) has seized on. Not altogether surprising given the amount of salt that's been splashing around just lately.

But on one occasion this happened to a friend's Clio and on investigation, one rear brake shoe lining had delaminated & wedged itself solid inside the drum. Nothing for it but to replace the shoes on that side at the roadside, then drive it slowly back home to the workshop to do both sides properly.

If gentle rocking back & forth with the handbrake off won't free it, then jack up the car on the side that's stuck, & remove the wheel & drum to find out what's happening.

Or call the AA if you've cover & you're not of the DIY persuasion.
 
friend had the same problem on a Xsara a few years back with the rear brake shoes coming to bits inside the drum. Somehow he managed to get it to Quick Fit who are only a few doors away and as I recall it needed new shoes and drums.
 
Either both of the above or is just rain/damp causing the brakes to stick on. If our Panda is left for a couple of days in the weather the brakes will stick on and need some rocking forwards and backwards to free it off.

That dosn't sound right, my car was stood still for two weeks in the big freeze and although I had problems with the thaw water getting into the engine I had no issue with the handbrake locking on.
 
Both the Panda 4x4s that I've owned frequently have a sticky handbrake when it's been wet due to the pads sticking to the discs. Car pulls away with a clunk as the pads unstick.
This may be irrelevant as the poster may have rear drum brakes and the handbrake does seem to be more seriously stuck in this case.
 
Both the Panda 4x4s that I've owned frequently have a sticky handbrake when it's been wet due to the pads sticking to the discs. Car pulls away with a clunk as the pads unstick.
This may be irrelevant as the poster may have rear drum brakes and the handbrake does seem to be more seriously stuck in this case.

100HP's the same (also discs).
 
Our MJ (rear drums) does it regularly during wet weather - i.e the handbrake sticks on. Sometimes it's so bad it feels as if the wheels are chocked. Once it's free everything works perfectly.

Not meaning to hijack the thread: my daughter's just bought a 1.1 Panda Active and mentioned the brakes didn't seem very good.....
I did a quick test drive and can only presume she likes to stop by running in to something solid :confused: The car pulled up straight and confidently even on a greasy wet road, and seemed far better than her previous Pug 307 which had a spongy feel to the pedal.
 
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both disc and drum rears operate on exactly the same principle for the rear handbrake, its just minaturised and inside the hub on the disc models. hence a poor handbrake.

I am sure the wind blows the rain in between the wheel spokes and it runs into the drum. worse for us superior pandaerers with alloys on i guess. you only have to see how quickly the discs go rusty at the moment to believe this.

This also happens if you wash the car and dont take it for a run afterwards, although i do appear to be the only person in the whole road who washes their cars anymore. (maybe a bit too much too)
 
both disc and drum rears operate on exactly the same principle for the rear handbrake, its just minaturised and inside the hub on the disc models. hence a poor handbrake.

I am sure the wind blows the rain in between the wheel spokes and it runs into the drum. worse for us superior pandaerers with alloys on i guess. you only have to see how quickly the discs go rusty at the moment to believe this.

This also happens if you wash the car and dont take it for a run afterwards, although i do appear to be the only person in the whole road who washes their cars anymore. (maybe a bit too much too)

I'm sure the Panda handbrake doesn't operate on separate shoes within the hub - just waggles the pads around - there is no separate drum. Also the handbrake on the 100HP works very well in terms of stopping the car. The sticky pads are not dependent on the handbrake being applied as it happens when mine's in the garage, where the brake is not on, and, as far as I remember, the pads on my 100HP have only stuck to the discs after I've washed it and parked it straight away, as you say.
 
Havent seen the Fiat installation, just going off what I have seen on other cars. Maybe they had to use a different system due to the small diameter of the wheels.
The Panda is conventional. It uses a cable pulling a lever to manually close the calipers' normal brake mech. The drum cars are also conventional; they have a lever (pulled by cable) that is directly acting on the shoes that push them out towards the drum in the same way as the normal wheel cylinder does.

Any other system of handbrake by any manufacturer would be considered unconventional and also expensive.
 
My advice is to take each back wheel off in turn and give the drum a few light taps with a small hammer.
I remember seeing an old Volvo being dragged from somebodies garden by a pick up truck on its last journey to the scrap yard. Its rear wheels were jammed and it was dragged up the road. The guy nonchalantly got out, gave each wheel a clout with a hammer, and off he went with the rear wheels turning!
 
I find the best way to unstick the hand brake is to get out and rock it manually and get someone else to help if needed. Mine was stuck firm after being left 3 weeks over news years and xmas when i was on holiday, but after a few rocks by me and my dad it soon came unstuck
(i know i was a fool for leaving it on)
 
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True that, i opened the boot then pushed at the top of the roof where the hinges attached where its pretty strong and not so easily damaged
 
Sorry for the delay in replying. Firstly, thanks to everyone for the excellent advice and such speedy responses. I ended up taking the rear wheels off and using a little gentle persuasion with a hammer all around the drums. To my amazement, it actually worked, and I was able to get to a garage. The diagnosis was that one of the shoes had "shattered" and was split into many pieces. Presumably one piece got itself wedged, which made the brakes lock on, and the hammer freed it. New shoes and I'm on my way again.
 
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