Technical Cambelt Change
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Technical Cambelt Change
Can't say without a VIN number. Our "B" has a 188A6 engine but the chassis is 183.
Definately the early first series engine M1, it is a replacement engine fitted by the German Barchetta club.
Looking at the graphic number 4 on page 21 of the workshop manual it appears that the inlet cam points towards the front of the car and the exhaust points to the rear. I accept that the graphic can’t be a reliable indication but it is similar to the direction of the camlock tools I have.
VIN No ZFA1830000038604
PK - BARCHETTA (1995-2004) 183.819.0.0 - 1750 MPI 16V CF2 SS.LIMITED EDITIONEngine: 0119066 Vehicle: 00038159 Manuf. date: 10/6/1998
| SPECIAL VERSION | S.S. LIMITED EDITION | (LV3) |
| M | 1.8 16V (183A1000) | (M1) |
| V | BASE | (V1) |
Compare your engine 183A1000 with the info for you cam timing lobe packaging.
I wasn’t the only one who had many attempts to get the cam cover sealed then!
S130 thanks again my locks are for the 183A1000 so good to go.
LeftyGreg yup, I found using a new gasket with Hylomar blue gasket and torqing to no more than 6Nm works for me. Its just a pain cleaning the gasket goo off the cylinder head each change (labour of love).
LeftyGreg yup, I found using a new gasket with Hylomar blue gasket and torqing to no more than 6Nm works for me. Its just a pain cleaning the gasket goo off the cylinder head each change (labour of love).
When I did the 1st / my cam belt change I removed the cam cover, gasket, etc. timed up with the tools, new gasket, correct torque etc. and the blinking thing leaked oil. Striped and replace with Hylomar blue and this worked for quite some time. Had to have a second go round.
Last year when I did the cam belt change I decided not to remove the cam cover and fit tooling etc. but very accurately marked everything up (as I knew the base timing was sound) and then worked from there. ALL WAS GOOD!
Its done goodness! I thought I would close down my cambelt change experience with a few of my traumas and a big thank you for all the help and comments provided:
Definitly needed to remove the coolant reservoir to access the cambelt cover.
a. Small hands needed to remove the cambelt cover screws on top end near bulkhead.
b. Aircon power lead does not need to be removed.
c. Accessories belt taken off the pullys but with the aircon in place cannot be removed completely without supporting the engine and unbolting the engine mounting. I left the belt slack and worked around it No problem.
d. No flywheel locking tool used (see previous trauma), but used gear locked in reverse to assist.
e. To assist undoing the crankcase pully wheel I used counter pressure on the centre crankcase bolt while undoing the four bolts holding the wheel on.
f. removed battery and found it difficult to locate the timig mark on the flywheel. I used a dowel in cylinder one to initially locate tdc and could not find the notch on the flywheel, I fitted the camlocking tools I used a camera to see more clearly the tiny notch on the flywheel which did no corrospond with my tdc. I removed the belt.
g. With belt removed I then chased the flywheel notch by minutely rotating the crankcase to get the notch at 0 deg position. Then put the gear in reverse to hold the crank.
h. I checked the camlocking tools were sittng correctly, ( I had not positioned them comfortably in position as I was initially afraid of damaging the cam face). I adjusted them to sit correctly by releasing the inlet pully adjustment (the four torx bolts that allows the new cambelt to sit properly).
h. I mounted the new belt, tightened the inlet camwheel, tightened belt tension, removed cam ocking tools, put gear in neutral and rotated the egine abot 6 times and looked for the timing mark. Re checked the profile of the camlockin tolls with the cams and all checked okay.
i. Re- assembled the demounted bits. The cambelt plastic cover is bitch, I spent more than 2 hours trying to get all the bolts to match, not sure I have them in the right order but no rattles etc.
j. Fired up, ran tickover good, hiccups on acceleration, but after warmed up and a good 5 km run around has settled down. A little hesitation at some revs and acceloration but as the addaptives relearned it appears to be getting smoother. Exhaust pipe colour good.
Will I do this again….. YES should be easier next time after this experience. Could I have done this without te help of you guys…. NO.
Thanks again
SteveD
Definitly needed to remove the coolant reservoir to access the cambelt cover.
a. Small hands needed to remove the cambelt cover screws on top end near bulkhead.
b. Aircon power lead does not need to be removed.
c. Accessories belt taken off the pullys but with the aircon in place cannot be removed completely without supporting the engine and unbolting the engine mounting. I left the belt slack and worked around it No problem.
d. No flywheel locking tool used (see previous trauma), but used gear locked in reverse to assist.
e. To assist undoing the crankcase pully wheel I used counter pressure on the centre crankcase bolt while undoing the four bolts holding the wheel on.
f. removed battery and found it difficult to locate the timig mark on the flywheel. I used a dowel in cylinder one to initially locate tdc and could not find the notch on the flywheel, I fitted the camlocking tools I used a camera to see more clearly the tiny notch on the flywheel which did no corrospond with my tdc. I removed the belt.
g. With belt removed I then chased the flywheel notch by minutely rotating the crankcase to get the notch at 0 deg position. Then put the gear in reverse to hold the crank.
h. I checked the camlocking tools were sittng correctly, ( I had not positioned them comfortably in position as I was initially afraid of damaging the cam face). I adjusted them to sit correctly by releasing the inlet pully adjustment (the four torx bolts that allows the new cambelt to sit properly).
h. I mounted the new belt, tightened the inlet camwheel, tightened belt tension, removed cam ocking tools, put gear in neutral and rotated the egine abot 6 times and looked for the timing mark. Re checked the profile of the camlockin tolls with the cams and all checked okay.
i. Re- assembled the demounted bits. The cambelt plastic cover is bitch, I spent more than 2 hours trying to get all the bolts to match, not sure I have them in the right order but no rattles etc.
j. Fired up, ran tickover good, hiccups on acceleration, but after warmed up and a good 5 km run around has settled down. A little hesitation at some revs and acceloration but as the addaptives relearned it appears to be getting smoother. Exhaust pipe colour good.
Will I do this again….. YES should be easier next time after this experience. Could I have done this without te help of you guys…. NO.
Thanks again
SteveD
Yellofrankcar
Member
Hi Steve,
Well done!
Thanks for your extensive listing of action points!
1 Question: I do not completely understand point C though, what do you exactly mean with leaving the belt slack and working around it?
I have also an airco version and will perform the same job in the upcoming spring (better temperature in my garage).
I have done this cambelt change last time a few (7 or 8) years ago and had the same problem; removing the multi rib belt and had to "lift" the engine (hate that, also, since the right front wheel is removed and the car is thus less stable).
After performing this cambelt change/renewal 3 times during her life I'm still looking for the perfect procedure (mainly due to the airco).
By the way, does your plastic cambelt cover also has an aperture due to slight warping?!
Again thanks for taking the time to share everything with us!!!
Frank
Well done!
Thanks for your extensive listing of action points!
1 Question: I do not completely understand point C though, what do you exactly mean with leaving the belt slack and working around it?
I have also an airco version and will perform the same job in the upcoming spring (better temperature in my garage).
I have done this cambelt change last time a few (7 or 8) years ago and had the same problem; removing the multi rib belt and had to "lift" the engine (hate that, also, since the right front wheel is removed and the car is thus less stable).
After performing this cambelt change/renewal 3 times during her life I'm still looking for the perfect procedure (mainly due to the airco).
By the way, does your plastic cambelt cover also has an aperture due to slight warping?!
Again thanks for taking the time to share everything with us!!!
Frank
Hi Frank, the accessory belt once lifted off the pulleys can remain slack and hanging where it is. You just have to move the slack belt out of your way when manoevering the old and new cambelt into position. It really does not interfere with the cambelt change.
The cambelt cover is slghtly warped yes but does not appear to interfere with anything.
cheers
SteveD
The cambelt cover is slghtly warped yes but does not appear to interfere with anything.
cheers
SteveD
