Technical Any work arounds for tools for changing shock absorbers?

[RedPeril]

I'm replacing the rear shock absorbers on my 2009 Grande. The YouTube videos that I have tracked down show two versions. My vehicle has two screws to release the upper fastener and gives a number (199) presumably to designate this version.

The tools that are listed forthe job include a shock absorber socket DD6. I checked these out online and found this:

Pardon our interruption...

Ouch! Have I tracked down the correct thing? I couldn't find one that looked like the one in my YouTube video that I have posted below.

Any workarounds, advice tips or experience would be great.

 

[bugsymike]

I'm replacing the rear shock absorbers on my 2009 Grande. The YouTube videos that I have tracked down show two versions. My vehicle has two screws to release the upper fastener and gives a number (199) presumably to designate this version.

The tools that are listed forthe job include a shock absorber socket DD6. I checked these out online and found this:

Pardon our interruption...

Ouch! Have I tracked down the correct thing? I couldn't find one that looked like the one in my YouTube video that I have posted below.

Any workarounds, advice tips or experience would be great.

In the absence of the correct tool, which in fairness I have never used or even been aware of!
On the old unit that is being replaced use a deep impact socket possible with an impact gun if available and grip the shock absorber strut with a pair of good mole grips.
For the new shock absorber obviously you don't want to damage the shaft, if you are lucky you may have a deep ring spanner and if enough room use that plus suitable open ended spanner or adjustable to grip the square above the nut to stop it turning, just be sure you have done it up all the way. If that doesn't work and in the absence of the correct tool it is sometimes possible to wrap some cardboard around the shaft and grip it with a couple of mole grips to tighten the nut. Note if you are forced to do this, position the mole grips at the very highest point you can nearest to the nut. The reason is this will be furthest away from the part of the shaft that comes in contact with the oil seal so least likely to cause any future problem. If you are careful doing this it will work, although not good practice even though the shaft is hardened steel.
The other thing that will help is to lubricate every nut and bolt you are going to work on the day before if possible and personally I use engine oil from a old style "squirter" not WD40 as I think it works better when left overnight.
Apart from this use the guide in your YouTube video. Plus if going under a car support it properly, your life is worth more than the money saved not going to a garage