Technical Alternator and starter motor brushes carbons?

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Technical Alternator and starter motor brushes carbons?

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Hello, my vehicle has only 130,000 km. I'm thinking about alternator and starter motor coals. At least if I keep a spare with me. I think I can intervene in case of a possible malfunction.
What do you think about this subject
Does anyone have the codes or dimensions of the brushes?
 
Sadly, when the brushes wear in the alternator, the slip rings tend to wear too. By the time the brushes need repalcing, the slip rings are often well worn too. They are much more difficult to replace. The connection from the rotor to the slip rings will present a sharp edge when the ring wears down, and this will chew the brush up very quickly.
By the time the brushes wear, the bearings will also be past their best. A complete alternator is a lot easier, and quicker to replace, avoiding the problem if rebuilding it. With aircon, the alternator is difficult to extract, so once out, you'd be wanting to refit and be done, not prolong the agony by rebuilding it.

I've not had a starter apart for years, but I'd expect the brushes to require soldering as they used to be. Again, there will be wear to the commutator segments, and the bearings, and the internal contacts of the solenoid. As with the alternator, I'd be happier replacing the whole thing, not attempting a short-term repair.
 
The cars only done 80K. Miles brushes will be fine and good for 4x that

Far more likely to crack the casing on the alternator by driving through standing water when it's hot than wearing the bushes out

Same with the starter, the solenoid failing or the pinion not disengaging will be long before the brushes ever wear out
 
The one and only car I've had to replace brushes in was my Renault 5; IIRC both alternator and starter failed at around 140000-150000 miles, and I was able to find replacement brushes for both. Both sets had wires attached, but the starter ones had the wrong end connectors, so I soldered on the ones from the old brushes.

I didn't replace any other parts, and both were still going strong when I sold the car at around 220,000 miles.
Comparing the cost of brushes to the cost of a new unit, it's definitely worth a try replacing just the brushes.
Getting a new set in before the old ones wear down to the point that arcing occurs seriously increases your chances of this being a lasting fix.
 
Thanks for information. Mostly, I wanted the problem to be fixed in case it broke down on a long trip. In my country, spare parts for Panda are not as many as those of other cars. Considering that my vehicle has only 80,000 mil (130km) . I decided not to think too much about it.
 
Mechanically there is not much that goes wrong as long as long as the service schedule is kept, even less leaves you stranded

It's important to regularly check the coolant level, the gauge rarely shows there is a problem

Scuttle drains do need cleaning from time to time

Breather hose block, leads to oil in the intake causing the Map to read wrong
Gearbox oil, low or dirty oil will lead to early failure

Clutch slave, grease behind the black boot

Thermostat, first signs is the gauge reads lower than normal, it does not leave you stranded though

Original Bosch rear shoes, fail at around 100K miles (delaminate)

Gear selector cable (here in the UK water can enter and corrod them from the inside)

Fuel pump ( rare)

Crankshaft sensor (rare but about the only spare worth carrying)

Ignition switch (very rare)
 
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