Technical After connecting 220v inverter directly to fuse box all electric went down.

[nlousky]

Hello everyone,

My name is Netanel and I'm from Israel.

I bought Fiat Ducato (X250 chassis) and build a motorhome on that chassis. Everything went fine, until one day I wanted to install second inverter for my 12v car battery (I also have leisure 24v 250amp battery). I connected it by mistake to a red wire on the fuse box and everything shut down. By saying everything I mean every electric instrument. No electric windows, no lights, no parking light and signals, no mirror adjustment.

I thought its the BCM so I bought the all starter kit (BCM, ECU, Starter, and the donor keys) Last night I try to connect it, and the good news is that I have some kind of lights. The Headlights are working constantly even if the light switch is off - I also hear a "ticking sound" from the red wires that goes into the fuse box. If I disconnect the red plug (2 red wires with a plug) there is no more "ticking sound".

I'm pretty much hopeless and hoped that I will get some help or direction what to look for? (maybe there is a shortage on the red wire plug?)

Any help will be much appreciated!!

Thank you guys,
Netanel

 

[bugsymike]

Hello everyone,

My name is Netanel and I'm from Israel.

I bought Fiat Ducato (X250 chassis) and build a motorhome on that chassis. Everything went fine, until one day I wanted to install second inverter for my 12v car battery (I also have leisure 24v 250amp battery). I connected it by mistake to a red wire on the fuse box and everything shut down. By saying everything I mean every electric instrument. No electric windows, no lights, no parking light and signals, no mirror adjustment.

I thought its the BCM so I bought the all starter kit (BCM, ECU, Starter, and the donor keys) Last night I try to connect it, and the good news is that I have some kind of lights. The Headlights are working constantly even if the light switch is off - I also hear a "ticking sound" from the red wires that goes into the fuse box. If I disconnect the red plug (2 red wires with a plug) there is no more "ticking sound".

I'm pretty much hopeless and hoped that I will get some help or direction what to look for? (maybe there is a shortage on the red wire plug?)

Any help will be much appreciated!!

Thank you guys,
Netanel

It does sound like you need the advice of an auto electrician experienced in camper mains wiring/invertor issues.
You may have introduced 24 volts into the original 12 volt circuits causing much damage.
It could be very easy to end up with a serious electrical fire.
There was another Forum member recently who had issues with leisure battery / split circuit charging etc. causing fuse box relays to click and other problems.
I would start by disconnecting anything non standard in the wiring and get the van to work as before, then introduce your camper modifications via suitably fused connections.

 

[nlousky]

It does sound like you need the advice of an auto electrician experienced in camper mains wiring/invertor issues.
You may have introduced 24 volts into the original 12 volt circuits causing much damage.
It could be very easy to end up with a serious electrical fire.
There was another Forum member recently who had issues with leisure battery / split circuit charging etc. causing fuse box relays to click and other problems.
I would start by disconnecting anything non standard in the wiring and get the van to work as before, then introduce your camper modifications via suitably fused connections.

Thank you bugsymike!

I didn't mention it, but I built the van a year ago and the 24v inverter and the 24v batteries works fine (I didn't connect anything to the car and the 24v is separated). A couple of weeks ago I bought a 220v Inverter to 12v Battery - at first I connect it directly to the 12v car battery - and by mistake (as I want the 12v inverter to turn on when I switch on the car so I will get charging from the alternator) I connect it to the red big wire in the fuse box (see blue cirrecle on the picture attached - where these 2 big red wires going to? maybe I should track them to find any shortage). As I said I replace the BCM, ECU and starter so I don't think I need to do cloning or at least not now - as still all my car instrument won't working yet.

Thank you guys!!

 

[Communicator]

@nlousky,

Have you checked the midi fuses in the battery fusebox? See attached extract from the x250 Training Manual.

It is not clear as to what you are trying to achieve with the 12V to 220V inverter. Perhaps there is a problem in translation, or usage? An inverter typically connects to a low DC voltage and provides a higher AC voltage, but will draw an approximately proportional higher current from the DC supply. Inverter losses will add to the current taken.

 

[bugsymike]

Thank you bugsymike!

I didn't mention it, but I built the van a year ago and the 24v inverter and the 24v batteries works fine (I didn't connect anything to the car and the 24v is separated). A couple of weeks ago I bought a 220v Inverter to 12v Battery - at first I connect it directly to the 12v car battery - and by mistake (as I want the 12v inverter to turn on when I switch on the car so I will get charging from the alternator) I connect it to the red big wire in the fuse box (see blue cirrecle on the picture attached - where these 2 big red wires going to? maybe I should track them to find any shortage). As I said I replace the BCM, ECU and starter so I don't think I need to do cloning or at least not now - as still all my car instrument won't working yet.

Thank you guys!!

Would it be better to connect the invertor to a separate leisure battery that is charged by a appropriate diode protected split circuit charging system so you don't get any reverse current or drain on the engine starting battery, so avoiding a long walk after watching TV etc. also wouldn't the invertor work more efficiently from the 24 volt setup you already have?

 

[the green vanper]

There are at least 4 fuse boxes on the x250 There is a possibility you have another one, depending on the version of the van you have (I have no idea if you've bought your van new or used, and what configuration it has, extra fuse boxes were common on ambulances, workshops and other special builds). Check all of them to be sure nothing has blown.

The first one just by the battery, as shown by Communicator a few posts earlier, the second one is under the dash (it looks like the one on the attatched photo as far as I remember), the third one is is under the bonnet, the fourth one is hidden in the bottom of the B-pillar on the passenger side (should be on the right hand side if your van is LHD).

That's a description of all of the fuses (no relays though) from boxes 2, 3 and 4 and in Polish, but you can use a browser translator.

Fiat Ducato mk3 (2006 - 2014) - bezpieczniki schemat - Auto Genius

Fiat Ducato mk3 (2006 – 2014) – bezpieczniki schemat Rok produkcji: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 Skrzynka bezpieczników w desce rozdzielczej (centralna skrzynka) Odbiornik Bezpiecznik Prąd [A] Światło mijania prawe F12 7,5 Światło mijania lewe, korektor ustawienia...

www.autogenius.info

If you will find such scheme with relays' description, please post

As bugsymike said, I wouldn't connect the inverter directly to the installation. And I wouldn't mix 12, 24 and 230 V in one build...

I was thinking heavilly about putting a 24V leisure battery, but I stayed with 12V due to the alternator and all the installation being 12V only. I'm not electrically strong enough to be sure, but perhaps it should be possible to find a way to charge your 24V battery from a 12V installation during driving. Of course via a battery separator and a special charger.

I have 2 chargers for laptops that make 20V out of a standard 12V cigarette lighter socket. You'd need something stronger, but it should be workable.

If not, think about a small wind turbine on the roof, the kind of old ambulances had (example of how it looks: https://carclimat.pl/Wentylator-dachowy-mechaniczny-Eole - this one is strictly mechanical, it sucks the air out of the van when in motion, but you'd need to have such thing connected to a genetator and a charge controller to charge the leisure battery.

Do you have PV panels on the roof? I think that would be the best solution to charge the battery in Israel Unless you want to travel to Canada during winter

 

[AndyRKett]

In a camper you should not be touching the van's electronics to install all the extras. yeah you might want some extra roof lights or running lights down the side but other than that all the electrics belonging to the Camper side should be separate.

As @bugsymike said you need a split charging relay. you take a big red wire off the battery, to your split charge relay. You then connect all of the camper electrics the other side of the split charging relay.
Some modern vans use some clever electronics which will cause problems with split charging relays such as VWs bluemotion which will shut off the alternator when the main battery is charged but can produce very high voltages when the car is freewheeling down a hill. So for these you need a DC to DC convertor which will keep the voltage going to the camper side at a stable 12V.


Given what you've done I agree that an auto electrician is needed, given the problems you are now having despite the new components its quite possible your wiring loom is now a collection so shorting out copper and melted insulation.

 

[the green vanper]

As @bugsymike said you need a split charging relay. you take a big red wire off the battery, to your split charge relay. You then connect all of the camper electrics the other side of the split charging relay.

There's even a ready 50A fuse for such use directly in the battery fuse box, shown by Communicator above. It's intended especially for body-makers that do their builds on the x250/x290 chassis.
Although I'd do some calculations to be sure it will be enough.

 

[Communicator]

The OP has not visited the forum since 13:28 today. Until he responds with more information, there is little point in adding posts. Further to avoid confusion, it would be wise to restrict post content to matters directly relevant to solving the OP's immediate problem.

 

[nlousky]

Guys, thank you for all the comments!!

Communicator was right! It was a faulty 50amp fuse

As for the other questions - yes I have solar panels and its the “smart” way to charge the 24v battery in Israel

I actually bought the 220v inverter to charge my Ecoflow battery while I was driving (I have 1kw ecoflow battery for long camping where my Motorhome can’t enter).

I really appreciate all your comments! You don’t even know how much you help me out!

So I solve all the electric problems and tomorrow Ill buy new 50amp fuse for the battery. My other problem is that I don’t know if my car is going to start (I replaced BCM, ECU and starter (not yet installed the starter)- I’ll check tomorrow after I put new fuse and keep you posted. Anyone of you guys may have instructions how to disamble the steering wheel and all the covers around it? I need to replace the original starter with the donor starter I just bought

 

[Communicator]

Guys, thank you for all the comments!!

Communicator was right! It was a faulty 50amp fuse

As for the other questions - yes I have solar panels and its the “smart” way to charge the 24v battery in Israel

I actually bought the 220v inverter to charge my Ecoflow battery while I was driving (I have 1kw ecoflow battery for long camping where my Motorhome can’t enter).

I really appreciate all your comments! You don’t even know how much you help me out!

So I solve all the electric problems and tomorrow Ill buy new 50amp fuse for the battery. My other problem is that I don’t know if my car is going to start (I replaced BCM, ECU and starter (not yet installed the starter)- I’ll check tomorrow after I put new fuse and keep you posted. Anyone of you guys may have instructions how to disamble the steering wheel and all the covers around it? I need to replace the original starter with the donor starter I just bought

Not on the x250, as mine is an x244. However there may be another way. The code in the chip that is inserted in your new key should have been written into the new BCM. If it was possible to put the new chip into the old key????? Forum member @bugsymike has told a story about removing chips from keys.

What chemistry and voltage is your Ecoflow battery? Perhaps you could charge it via a battery to battery (B2B, or DCtoDC charger). These units are usually designed so as not to draw current until alternator is charging. Also for your 24V habitation battery 12V to 24V units are available. Do be aware that input current would be over 2 times the output current. Do not overlook the total load that you will be placing on your alternator. The output rating should be treated as maximum, not continuous.

 

[the green vanper]

Communicator was right! It was a faulty 50amp fuse

So I solve all the electric problems and tomorrow Ill buy new 50amp fuse for the battery. My other problem is that I don’t know if my car is going to start (I replaced BCM, ECU and starter (not yet installed the starter)- I’ll check tomorrow after I put new fuse and keep you posted. Anyone of you guys may have instructions how to disamble the steering wheel and all the covers around it? I need to replace the original starter with the donor starter I just bought

I'd put back the original ECU and BCM and try, it is quicker than taking out the starter. The fuse probably was the first and hope only one to blow.

There are a few torxes from the bottom of the steering wheel column cover, if you take it away you will have access to where the starter is. But I have no idea how to usncrew it. The visible screw doesn't have a head

 

[bugsymike]

Not on the x250, as mine is an x244. However there may be another way. The code in the chip that is inserted in your new key should have been written into the new BCM. If it was possible to put the new chip into the old key????? Forum member @bugsymike has told a story about removing chips from keys.

What chemistry and voltage is your Ecoflow battery? Perhaps you could charge it via a battery to battery (B2B, or DCtoDC charger). These units are usually designed so as not to draw current until alternator is charging. Also for your 24V habitation battery 12V to 24V units are available. Do be aware that input current would be over 2 times the output current. Do not overlook the total load that you will be placing on your alternator. The output rating should be treated as maximum, not continuous.

Sorry I wasn't following that part of the discussion, but if the only reason for removing the steering covers etc. was to change the lock assembly to match the "new" ECU/BCM/chipped key etc. then on most keys it should be possible to fit the chip matching the "new" setup into the old key.
That way you will still have matching locks all around hopefully, rather than a different ignition key to the rest of the locks.
As a test if you remove the old defunct keys chip, then hold the "new" chipped key against the ignition barrel and use the old "chipless" key in the ignition lock you should be able to start the vehicle.
Note don't do it with both keys having chips in as it may totally immobilise/confuse the BCM etc.!
This uTube video may you the idea.:-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsUbzLvtmKw
Re the key barrel if you want to change it, on some makes there is a release button which if the original key is the the correct position when the release button is pushed in will allow you to pull the barrel and key out without unbolting the security lock screws etc on the steering lock assembly. If you have the doner steering lock you may be able to work it out from that one, once in the right position no violence is necessary when release button is activated the barrel should come out with key in it, new one goes in the same way.
If you do want to remove the whole steering lock assembly from the column, providing you can access both security bolts with the snapped off heads, it is often possible to undo them by tapping the around using a small sharp chisel and a bit of patience as they don't do up very tight before the heads snap off. Please note I learnt this in the motor trade and not as a car thief. It is probably why manufacturers went to chipped keys!

 

[the green vanper]

Sorry I wasn't following that part of the discussion, but if the only reason for removing the steering covers etc. was to change the lock assembly to match the "new" ECU/BCM/chipped key etc. then on most keys it should be possible to fit the chip matching the "new" setup into the old key.
That way you will still have matching locks all around hopefully, rather than a different ignition key to the rest of the locks.
As a test if you remove the old defunct keys chip, then hold the "new" chipped key against the ignition barrel and use the old "chipless" key in the ignition lock you should be able to start the vehicle.
Note don't do it with both keys having chips in as it may totally immobilise/confuse the BCM etc.!
This uTube video may you the idea.:-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsUbzLvtmKw

The key can be dismantled. And all the 'new' electronics could be theoretically put in the 'old' key. Looking at the starter, perhaps the black ring is the transmitter, as it is connected with a cable. If so, you could also replace it, take it from the 'new' starter and put it on the 'old' starter.

I'd say it is worth testing You'd keep one key to the starter and locks.

The only concern is that in MultiEcuScan you have to program separately the key and the key fob. I have no idea why... Haven't done it yet. I assume that key is for the immobilizer transmitter and keyfob is for central locking. And both should match the BCM. If so, replacing all the electronics in the old key should work.

FYI, it's how the original Magneti Marelli electronics of the x250 key looks like.

EDIT: the left chip is probably the immo one, the right one is the keyfob part for central locking.
In MES you can check how many keys / keyfobs are programmed to your BCM. And the old ones can be cleared. But again, I'm not sure if only by programming new ones.

 

[Communicator]

The key can be dismantled. And all the 'new' electronics could be theoretically put in the 'old' key. Looking at the starter, perhaps the black ring is the transmitter, as it is connected with a cable. If so, you could also replace it, take it from the 'new' starter and put it on the 'old' starter.

NO! The black ring is only an aerial. In x250 and later models the key code transmitter, which sends power to the key code chip, is embodied in the BCM. The key code receiver and code memory are also in the BCM.
(In the x244 the key code transmitter, receiver and code memory are in a separate module located under the steering column.)

I'd say it is worth testing You'd keep one key to the starter and locks.

As @bugsymike has said above.

The only concern is that in MultiEcuScan you have to program separately the key and the key fob. I have no idea why... Haven't done it yet. I assume that key is for the immobilizer transmitter and keyfob is for central locking. And both should match the BCM. If so, replacing all the electronics in the old key should work.

The key chip does not require any external connections, and does not need to be mounted on a PCB

FYI, it's how the original Magneti Marelli electronics of the x250 key looks like.

EDIT: the left chip is probably the immo one, the right one is the keyfob part for central locking.
In MES you can check how many keys / keyfobs are programmed to your BCM. And the old ones can be cleared. But again, I'm not sure if only by programming new ones.

I do not have an x250 key to examine, but see my comment above. The code chip is discrete, and may not be on the PCB.

 

[nlousky]

Hi guys!

A few updates - as you suggested - I switch the chip in the old key with the donor chip.

1. All the electric in the car works (mirrors, windows etc)

2. The remote buttons also works and close the car with no problem

3. The only problem (and the big one haha) is the car won't start. I attached a video so you can see, disregard the "slipping sound" I think it probably the starter is slipping or something like that. It's a problem I already know about a while ago and after a few starts the car supposed to start - at the end of the video you can watch a "full start" with no slipping and the car didn't start (skip right to 1:07). I think its something that related to "matching the Ecu" ? I already order a TOPDON phoenix diagnostics (also for my other cars) and I think If I would make the matching process with the diagnostic tool it should work right? anything I'm missing here?

Again, thank you for all of you and your kind help! I was hopeless and thought about going to Fiat licensed garage which will probably rip my bank account off

P.S I saw the IMMO light is on with switch on but it turn off when I start to turn the engine and it turn on again after I stop. I don't know if it's normal I didn't pay attention to that when the car was in working condition

 

[the green vanper]

NO! The black ring is only an aerial. In x250 and later models the key code transmitter, which sends power to the key code chip, is embodied in the BCM. The key code receiver and code memory are also in the BCM.

and does not need to be mounted on a PCB

I do not have an x250 key to examine, but see my comment above. The code chip is discrete, and may not be on the PCB.

I won't argue with the fact that the ring is an aerial only. But if the aerial is connected to the BCM, there's no need to change on the steering column. Plus of course the BCM on the van side. The new key electronics in the old keyfob should work with the new BCM and ECU. Under the condition that those were working before.

But I won't agree that there's an extra chip in the keyfob. There's nothing more in it. At least in mine. I've changed the plastic keyfob body (or how do you call it in English) because the one I got with the car was totally broken and it worked with no problem after the replacement (you have all the pieces on the photo below) including the new and the old keyfob bodies.

I've also checked with a Fiat dealer and then a shop I bought the electronics (=PCB board with all the elements) from that there's nothing more you need. Probably for economic reasons Fiat is not selling separetely the electronics, as a new keyfob + programming is around 350 EUR. So for less than half of their price I bought the MES license, the bluetooth adapter to connect with a van, the genuine MM electronics (as the copies tend to be problematic), the keyfob and another keyfob body. Of course you need the original license of MES + the bluetooth or cable OBD adapter + the code card you got originally with the van. But again, this code can be obtained from a Fiat dealership at no cost upon proof of ownership of the van (or car, the same rule applies for all Fiat models).

I think that we're confusing nlousky and ourselves using different terminology.

@nlousky, @bygsymike what dou you call a 'chip'?

As mentionned before, there are 2 separate functions to program in MES. Working central locking doesn't mean that the immo has been desacitaved.

I did a test (as I am the only one of our four to have a working x250): with the immo aerial in place, I put the working key in the starter. I turned it into the 'engaged' position. The immo light was off, it turned on after +/- a second for +/- 2 seconds and then turned off. Then I turned the key to 'starter' position and started the engine. The key returned to 'engaged' position.

Then I took off the immo aerial from its place, took it away as far as I could to the left, and the immo light appeared after the same +/- one second but never turned off. The engine didn't wanted to start, which is obvious.

@nlousky I understand that you changed the ECU and BCM because you thought they were burnt when you connected the inverter to the fuse box in the dashboard. Do they have burn signs? If not, I'd really try to put back the ones you had on your van originally, as you know how the engine reacted and was working and try to start the engine (of course with the original key, including the electronics). I also assume that you haven't seen the ones you bought on a working van before the purchase. I know from the Polish forum that the ECUs/BCMs vary, and it can be very problematic to find a set that will work with the engine (it depends not only on the displacement, model year, EURO norm but also engine type). Also, check all the terminals you disconnected and connected to be sure there's good contact everywhere.

To confirm there's no extra chip in my key I dismantled it again. As you can see on the second photo, there is a place that something could be put in. But just above it, on the PCB board there's this chip soldered to the board. So I assume it's one or the other.

I think that nlousky should confirm how the interior of his keyfob looks like. Is it the same as this on my photos, or different? Perhaps Sevel was putting different types depending on the EURO norm and engine type, model year etc...

When I was buying the extra electronics I had no special problems - I only chose the model year. Another thing - the keyfob body is probably a chinese copy. The one I got the van with was also a copy, I have no idea if there was this special place on the original one. On the second photo, from left to right: the keyfob body I'm using, the electronic PCB board I'm using now, the new one, also genuine Magneti Marelli I bought to program to have a spare.

 

[nlousky]

I won't argue with the fact that the ring is an aerial only. But if the aerial is connected to the BCM, there's no need to change on the steering column. Plus of course the BCM on the van side. The new key electronics in the old keyfob should work with the new BCM and ECU. Under the condition that those were working before.

But I won't agree that there's an extra chip in the keyfob. There's nothing more in it. At least in mine. I've changed the plastic keyfob body (or how do you call it in English) because the one I got with the car was totally broken and it worked with no problem after the replacement (you have all the pieces on the photo below) including the new and the old keyfob bodies.

I've also checked with a Fiat dealer and then a shop I bought the electronics (=PCB board with all the elements) from that there's nothing more you need. Probably for economic reasons Fiat is not selling separetely the electronics, as a new keyfob + programming is around 350 EUR. So for less than half of their price I bought the MES license, the bluetooth adapter to connect with a van, the genuine MM electronics (as the copies tend to be problematic), the keyfob and another keyfob body. Of course you need the original license of MES + the bluetooth or cable OBD adapter + the code card you got originally with the van. But again, this code can be obtained from a Fiat dealership at no cost upon proof of ownership of the van (or car, the same rule applies for all Fiat models).

I think that we're confusing nlousky and ourselves using different terminology.

@nlousky, @bygsymike what dou you call a 'chip'?

As mentionned before, there are 2 separate functions to program in MES. Working central locking doesn't mean that the immo has been desacitaved.

I did a test (as I am the only one of our four to have a working x250): with the immo aerial in place, I put the working key in the starter. I turned it into the 'engaged' position. The immo light was off, it turned on after +/- a second for +/- 2 seconds and then turned off. Then I turned the key to 'starter' position and started the engine. The key returned to 'engaged' position.

Then I took off the immo aerial from its place, took it away as far as I could to the left, and the immo light appeared after the same +/- one second but never turned off. The engine didn't wanted to start, which is obvious.

@nlousky I understand that you changed the ECU and BCM because you thought they were burnt when you connected the inverter to the fuse box in the dashboard. Do they have burn signs? If not, I'd really try to put back the ones you had on your van originally, as you know how the engine reacted and was working and try to start the engine (of course with the original key, including the electronics). I also assume that you haven't seen the ones you bought on a working van before the purchase. I know from the Polish forum that the ECUs/BCMs vary, and it can be very problematic to find a set that will work with the engine (it depends not only on the displacement, model year, EURO norm but also engine type). Also, check all the terminals you disconnected and connected to be sure there's good contact everywhere.

To confirm there's no extra chip in my key I dismantled it again. As you can see on the second photo, there is a place that something could be put in. But just above it, on the PCB board there's this chip soldered to the board. So I assume it's one or the other.

I think that nlousky should confirm how the interior of his keyfob looks like. Is it the same as this on my photos, or different? Perhaps Sevel was putting different types depending on the EURO norm and engine type, model year etc...

When I was buying the extra electronics I had no special problems - I only chose the model year. Another thing - the keyfob body is probably a chinese copy. The one I got the van with was also a copy, I have no idea if there was this special place on the original one. On the second photo, from left to right: the keyfob body I'm using, the electronic PCB board I'm using now, the new one, also genuine Magneti Marelli I bought to program to have a spare.

Yellow question -

in my car (right now) the IMMO light won't turn off. I did not replace the black ring as you both suggested is antenna for the IMMO. I did change, as I said, the ECU, BCM, and the chip from the donor key to my old key.

Blue question - No I change both of them because I know that replacing only the BCM is not enough and you need to reprogram it all the data you have in the ECU include the pin code. So I bought the "complete set" In order to avoid that and play safe. I can't return the old BCM and ECU because my BCM is 100% won't working. The old ECU is fine but I don't see how he can help me here.

Red question - Yes it's look exactly like that.

Thank you!

 

[the green vanper]

So my last question:

You wrote earlier that you've replaced the chip. What do you call a 'chip'?

I was looking at the starter and I cannot see anything else than the black ring to be related to the immobilizer. But I can be mistaken. There are of course other electrical wires and contacts, but being quite far from the top of the starter, I assume they are responsible for key + starter rotation (and their actions).

I've confirmed in EPER that the black ring is described as the aerial / antenna:

So it shouldn't have any impact on the signal that it's transmitting.

The last thing to check (I think) would be disconnecting the plugs that go to the 'old' starter (the big one from the bottom of the van + the aerial one), connect them to the 'new' starter you've bought, put back the 'new' 'chip' (I still assume you're calling it the whole PCB Board with all the electronic elements) into the 'new' keyfob, and check the behaviour of the immo light. If it disappears, I'd try to start the engine.

If the engine starts, you'll have to find a way to unscrew the security screws and then install the 'new' starter on your steering column. The screws' Fiat number is 51927074. They are available on the Polish internet (2,50 EUR each, Fiat retail price being 1,65 EUR each), so I think you should be able to find them in Isreal, too.

That's how they look:

Good luck! I hope that it will finally resolve the problem

 

[bugsymike]

I suspect you still have an issue withe the IMMO side, as far as I know on most vehicles once the chip has been recognised then the immobiliser light should go out before cranking starts.
The photo below is for a Peugeot key fob showing the Immobiliser chip separate and on right is another plain chip that you can buy blank and with suitable equipment can program to your vehicle. In most cases I believe they are similar, positioned or glued in place with no physical electric connection to the circuit board. Once programmed or the correct one that came with your system they are inert, but when inserted in ignition switch (or close proximity) the aerial / antennae ring can pick up a signal from it which is transmitted to the immobiliser part of the BCM to pass to the engine ECU to permit engine to start.
In the past if you went to a scrap yard for a "key set" it would include the steering lock + ignition switch, antennae ring, BCM and ECU. The antennae ring is not required as only reads the signal from the chip and passes it on to the BCM etc. Modern later vehicles with specific data for each kept in the ECU/BCM are less likely to work doing this practice.
Your model may have a later version but in principle should be similar, others with greater knowledge may differ in opinion.
Where I came across this issue was some years ago, I bought a 2003 Iveco 35C13 Crewcab pickup at auction, ex Water Company, I drove it home with no problem, but as it was in filthy condition inside and out, I very aggressively steam cleaned everywhere. On trying to start it was Immobilised, very long story short it turned out the standard procedure at the Water Company workshop was due to the labourers driving these vehicles having the habit of snapping the expensive keys whilst working, the workshop practice was to detach the antenae ring from the ignition switch and with it still connected electrically fix/tape the vehicles immobiliser chip to the ring and jam the whole lot up behind the radio speaker, then if key was broken they could cheaply cut a new key for the driver.
The principle worked fine, until I steam cleaned and blew the tiny chip out onto the road along with the rest of the rubbish. Iveco dealers wanted back then well over a £1000 if I towed the vehicle 30 miles to them to fix the problem!
In the end I found a diagnostic company that by posting the Bosch ECU to them were able to "de immobilise" the ECU so it wouldn't look for the chip, there was a process of disconnecting other units prior to refitting the ECU and battery terminal. The vehicle started and ran perfectly, total cost including postage £137 approx. so I was well happy. When I later sold it I informed the new owner so he could tell his insurer re vehicle security etc.
Please note whilst this worked for me at the time and I hope the information is useful to others, it probably will not work on later vehicles where manufacturers have changed designs etc.
By the way if stuck you can use normal bolts or even cut a screwdriver slot in the old security bolts to reuse. I agree this defeats their purpose but would argue that if any thief has already stripped out the plastic covers etc. to gain access then those bolts are not going to be much of a deterrent to them!