Technical Advice on Stilo 1.6 Active Sport with colour LCD dash installed

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Technical Advice on Stilo 1.6 Active Sport with colour LCD dash installed

Mytheroo

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Hi, I've recently moved from Seicentos (Seicenti?) to my first Stilo. It is modified in a few areas:
coil-overs, strut brace, BMC airbox, twin-pipe exhaust, apparently has been re-mapped on Shell V-power nitro, and has had the colour LCD dash fitted (from the Abarth?)

All has been fine for a couple of months engine-wise, apart from a small oil leak that I've not tracked down yet, but yesterday after a few miles on a dual carriageway I slowed for the upcoming roundabout and there was a horrible noise from the engine maybe like something was scraping
(per turn of the camshaft? or maybe something in the gearbox). I gingerly limped at low revs to the nearest carpark (100m or so) and stopped, checked for anything rubbing on the tyres first (though I think the noise was following revs rather than road-speed) but didn't see anything.
I started the car in idle and nothing seemed amiss.
I limped home (5 miles) at low revs but still going 30/40 where applicable, and I could almost imagine an extra noise but the exhaust is so loud it was hard to tell!
I was wondering if the oil leak was in fact gearbox oil so got it up on ramps and investigated what I could.
Though there was some oily stuff around the bell housing, it does seem to be coming from higher up in the middle of the engine and doesn't smell like gearbox fluid. The fluid in the gearbox appeared to be present but hard to tell as was on a slope (on ramps).
Starting it was no issue, and though not incredible smooth sounding it wasn't horrible or anything.
Listening with a 1/4" extension bar to my ear, there was a definite tapping noise at the nearside of the rear cam, as if a hydraulic lifter wasn't properly pressuring up, but unless something drastic had happened to the oil flow to that lifter during the 5min dual-carriageway run I can't really see that being the cause of the noise I heard.

The oil was still full so it wasn't that, so I wondered about the oil pressure. Assuming there would be a dashboard light that came on with ignition I went looking for it, but didn't find it. After some investigation it looks like the colour LCD dashboards only display it on the LCD screen (along with level and pressure in a segment display?), but the non-colour LCD dashboards have a light.

I'm wondering if the dashboard swap has deleted the ability to display an oil pressure warning?

I'm wondering if a real-time OBD2 reader would display it?

I'm wondering what the noise was?

I'm wondering if I try some lifter treatment in the oil, or some different oil (previous owner said it was using 5w-30 so that's what I bought), or whether I should just plan on taking the cam(s) off and checking/cleaning all the lifters?

Timing on these seems a little tricky, can it be done with normal tools if done carefully?

Is there anything else I should check for or a good test to try recreate the noise (apart from tonking it down the motorway :))?

Cheers in advance.
 
I'm pretty sure the oil light on the dash is for pressure and not low oil level. I don't know if these things have a level sense on them. Most people assume the oil warning light is for low oil but it's coincidental, as typically low oil pressure is caused by a lack of oil.


The only other causes really are if the oil pickup gets clogged up and full of crap, which is fairly rare or if the oil pump fails, again fairly rare.


Honestly I don't think ODB is going to help you unless there is a fault code associated with that's happening. I don't think it'll give you an oil pressure real time readout. If you've got the kit you could give it a go.


It's hard to diagnose your issue as you've got way too many variables going on and added complications of mods that may interfere with what is happening too.


You could have done anything from damaging the crank or throwing a bearing to pinking the head or burning a valve. It might even be that the flywheel / clutch has been damaged.


You can narrow down your issue somewhat by checking with the car stationary whether the noise occurs when revving the engine, which would point to possibly an engine issue.


If the noise is present with engine revving at stationary when try again with the clutch depressed and see if that changes it, which might point to a fly / clutch or maybe crank issue. If it only follows with road speed then it's more likely a transmission issue.


The LCD screens are pretty (although my abarth does not have one) but I don't know how compatible they are with other engines.
 
thanks for the reply. Yes I agree I think my engine only has oil pressure switch, but my dash doesn't have a light (the LCD dashes show a message and oil level as far as i can tell), maybe I can rig up my own light off the switch/sensor.

I drove gently yesterday, and the only noise I can hear is very slight and only really accelerating in first gear. Am doing a long trip down a dual carriageway today so will test and report back.

Presuming the 1.6 is an interference engine, is lining everything up pretty close before tensioning down the trick with re-installing cams?
 
well, longish trip didn't cause any issues, still sounds a little weird but I have the cover off so it might be that.

But then, engine light, pulled over. Starts but only idles, throttle pedal seems to drop the revs a touch and idle seems a little higher than normal, with a mild wander (1000-1100 instead of 800).

Re-seated all the connectors I could find in the engine bay, might be a couple of "sunk" pins in the ECU (will investigate more tomoz).

Recovery man got P1686 and P1687 codes, so suspecting failure of the throttle body electronics, the wired connection, or the pins in the ECU.

I can't see how this could relate to the weird noise on Tuesday though, which hasn't re-manifested at all. Must be separate issues ~(or the Tuesday one a non-issue)
 
I can't understand why someone would remap the 1.6, nor why they would do so for higher octane fuel.

Not only because of the £/hp efficiency, but because of issues like you'll have - it just makes everything an unknown quantity - especially where the ECU is concerned.

Have you checked the brakes to see if the noise was caliper related?
 
i'm annoyed that I didn't pay more attention to the noise at the time, I'd just arrived at a busy 3-lane roundabout and wanted to get the car somewhere safe. I'm not a complete amateur at engines breaking and I did immediately think engine, followed by gearbox, rather than something rubbing, but after stopping I did check for things rubbing first. Was it just something stuck to my tyre? I honestly don't know at this point.

As to why someone would remap a 1.6.....well, petrol heads are interested in the process as well as the outcome. I know I was with the Seicentos :)
 
you're right the noise could have been a red herring or a symptom, who knows.

If you've got throttle body issues overheating, pinking head and burning cylinders isn't out of the question, particularly on a remapped car.

The 1.6 is known for cooking it's ECU because it's mounted on top of the 4th cylinder. so it could be an ECU cooking issue.

Check out this video:

 
so ECU had 3 or 4 pins "dropped". I've resoldered those and now the car no longer gives an error on the dash, but still gives a P1687 on FiatECUScan, and it fails to start (chugs and dies) which I assume is because today it is trying to cold start.

Throttle body off:

Both resistor tracks give a fairly smooth range of 1.1k to 3k ohms. Deck had a graph on another thread saying/showing that the 2 tracks are different voltages, but maybe the resistance is the same but they have different voltages applied from the ECU.

The motor, driven with 5v, opens the valve almost to full. I'm not sure if this is a 12v part, or gets driven by a non-DC voltage, or gets a varying DC voltage etc. There's a return spring so it returns when voltage is removed.

I would expect the car to start (using a bit of ECU-applied throttle) without using the pedals, so I don't suspect pedal potentiometers yet, though maybe it needs a re-learn to cold start (just thought of that).

Will back probe for voltages at the TB connector, and check the wiring from ECU to TB next
 
update:

TB back on the car, 5v on pin 5 OK. Outputs on pin 6 and pin2 (from potentionmeters) vary from ~1 to ~5 v on one, and ~5v to ~1v on the other, so one is inverse to the other. This seems valid.

However, the middle two pins (power for the motor) are at 5.3v and 2.6V unplugged from TB, and both 5v when plugged in.

Interestingly, the car started and idled, with the acc. pedal now smoothly giving a rev range from 1000 to 1500 (some kind of limp mode) so I think the pedal is working correctly. Voltage on TB pin 3 and 4 sits at 6V on both wires, I couldn't test the voltage while varying the pedal though, no idea if it changed.

I'm thinking whatever drives the TB motor inside the ECU is blown at this point.
 
New ECU (T1 homologation rather than the T9) fitted and engine working. Codes for TB gone.

Am getting a U1702 (ECU-power steering comms error?) but PS seems to work....maybe it's not reducing in power due to speed though.

Maybe I forgot to plug a connector in, maybe re-plugging the D4 has actually caused the issue!

Engine feels a little odd, idle is 700 instead of 800 that it was with the T9, and it's not as rock solid as it was before. Maybe cleaning the TB did that :)
 
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