General Advice on buying a secondhand TA 4x4

[fujoo]

I have a Lounge spec TA and I like it. I will be moving to a more rural location within the next year and and am thinking of getting a TA 4x4.

My budget is around £6k—most are high mileage ones is there anything I need to look out for apart from brakes/suspension? Is my budget realistic for finding a decent one?

Many thanks!

 

[lunchbeers]

I just picked up a 13 plate with 10k miles on for £7.5k, there was a lot of choice, but not a lot around my area, and given COVID, I had to buy it unseen.

The only pre-requisties I had were the colour (Tuscany green) TA engine, and the winter pack, with the exception of a couple of marks, mine is immaculate.

I think £6k is more than reasonable, just make sure that it comes with good service history and appears cared for inside and out, as you've got a TA already, you'll know all about the engine.

Watch for any difficulty getting the car into gear, the dual mass flywheel goes on these and knackers the bellhousing, it seems this can happen at any mileage, this was introduced on EURO6 engines, bit haven't found out if this is the case on all the 4x4s as mine's a EURO5.

Give the turbo actuating rod a wiggle, on the higher mileage ones these joints wear oval and can lead to a loss of power.

Check for any sighs of centre prop bearing wear (rumbling, knocking or wobble) as this is a pricey bit of kit I'm told.

Thee 4x4 undertray seems a bit hit and miss when it comes to rustproofing, so have a poke around underneath.

 

[fujoo]

Thank you! Very helpful.

I might go see a 14 plate with about 45K on it tomorrow. It’s in white—I don’t mind the colour so much. It has had advisories for the last two MOT’s:

Front exhaust has a minor leak of gases

Front Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened
Rear Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened
both rear diff cradle bushes worn
Nearside Rear Shock absorbers has a slightly worn bush
Offside Rear Shock absorbers has a slightly worn bush

I’ll see if any of the above was done from the service records and I’ll have a look the things you have mentioned.

 

[Panda IIs]

Thank you! Very helpful.

I might go see a 14 plate with about 45K on it tomorrow. It’s in white—I don’t mind the colour so much. It has had advisories for the last two MOT’s:

Front exhaust has a minor leak of gases

Front Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened
Rear Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened
both rear diff cradle bushes worn
Nearside Rear Shock absorbers has a slightly worn bush
Offside Rear Shock absorbers has a slightly worn bush

I’ll see if any of the above was done from the service records and I’ll have a look the things you have mentioned.

I've a 63 plate TA 4x4 and owned for maybe 5 years - had 43k miles on the clock when purchased.

I would say the brake disc advisories come with the territory - a low mileage car sitting around a lot. Front discs are straightforward rears take a bit of patience but are doable with a decent jack and axle stands if you are into DIY. There are some myths out there citing that hub/bearing removal is required to do the rears - this is NOT the case!

Rear diff cradle bushes is a new one on me; and shock bushes are either worn or not in my book given (I think) they are bonded rubber.

I bought mine without a service history (but appropriate price reduction) from a FIAT dealership, and ended up replacing UNI Air unit and DMF in pretty short timescales since then it has been pretty good if you don't count the Blue and Me unit failing(?) which is indicated by a flashing odometer and battery drain every week if the car is not used.

Good luck in your hunt.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Fitting rear discs as apparently difficult. Exhaust systems are an uncommon item too and may be pricey so check condition. A really well looked after car will be clean under bonnet - not washed! Make sure the car pulls smoothly as the turbo engages c 1300 revs to 2000 and goes easily up hills. It should fly. Do the usual full lock checks in both directions to check for noises and vibration. Suspension shouldn't rattle. Damper bshes are par for the course at 40000 miles but 4oK dampers are really best changed anyway even if they feel OK. Start it from cold and hopefully not too many funny twin air noises. It should settle down very quickly to an - even??? - idle without too much knitting needle noise. I would go for full service history. Avoid any with encrustations of mud and underside dents. Wheels, seat bolsters pedal rubbers and steering when are good indicators of how its been cared for. Tyres should be reasonably evenly worn. AVOID any with excessive side wear on rear tyres as there is no way to rectify issues.

 

[fujoo]

Bought the Panda!

Thank you for the information on what to check and look out for.

The car is in a good state. The engine is clean and has not been ‘cleaned and waxed’. The under tray is rusted but seems solid. It has a Euro 6 engine. Makes a bit more of a grumbling noise than my TA but runs smooth. The six speed box takes a bit getting used to.

Got to get some mats, change the wiper blades—prefer the area blades on my TA. Next big job is to sort out a tow bar. I will change all the tyres in the next few months as there are mixed makes. MOT is due in December so I’ll get a full service done nearer the time.

I prefer driving it to my TA. The TA wins on outright speed but the 4x4 to me is more fun and you sit higher up. The ride is smoother—especially going over bumps, but it makes more internal noise—not by much. The winter pack is a welcome addition.

Many thanks for your help—it’s much appreciated.

 

[fujoo]

Quick question—how is it for towing your caravan? I’m planning on getting a van box.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Quick question—how is it for towing your caravan? I’m planning on getting a van box.

Well yes I did pull this van with this Panda for about 30 miles, as it was below the Goyt Valley reservoir and the river had burst its banks so no real choice. Move it or lose it. It was rather above its limit, but the nose weight was carefully adjusted and the car loaded with as much heavy stuff as possible. It pulled the van absolutely no trouble at all and was fully stable and felt in complete control, although I kept to around 45 most of the time Having towed vans over around 40K miles it was not a worry as I am very aware of the issues involved. Pulling on muddy fields and up muddy slopes was a complete doddle. 4x4 had through vision in the cars interior mirror too. Anything within the towing limits would be no problem. The cars light weight is clearly the limiting factor. I am considering a light weight caravan again as the towing would be easy. Not much choice at under 800Kgs though! I pull a trailer regularly and it will pull 400kgs with utter ease. Stability and brakes are more than a match for this sort of weight. Off the road pulling logs it moves a pretty large load with little issue too.

Poor old caravan went from here to its final resting place, a breakers in Derby behind my brothers Range Rover. Perhaps I should have let it float away... It did get a last 6 weeks of use though.

I would very strongly recommend you avoid a twin axle box as these are a total pain behind a small car and feel as if they are trying to tear the car in half. Many good points to twin axles but not for small light vehicles. The attitude of the van and angle of attack so to speak is critical to ease of towing and turning. I had a small 4 wheeled trailer that used to literally tear the tyres off the rims when loaded... NOT GOOD.

 

[Al D]

If worried about bad weather just get 4 winter tyres on existing car. With £6k budget you might want to try Suzuki Swift 4x4. Had 2 Panda TA 4x4's. Wouldn't be given one now.

 

[fujoo]

If worried about bad weather just get 4 winter tyres on existing car. With £6k budget you might want to try Suzuki Swift 4x4. Had 2 Panda TA 4x4's. Wouldn't be given one now.

Thanks for the suggestion—bought the Panda 4x4.

 

[fujoo]

Well yes I did pull this van with this Panda for about 30 miles, as it was below the Goyt Valley reservoir and the river had burst its banks so no real choice. Move it or lose it. It was rather above its limit, but the nose weight was carefully adjusted and the car loaded with as much heavy stuff as possible. It pulled the van absolutely no trouble at all and was fully stable and felt in complete control, although I kept to around 45 most of the time Having towed vans over around 40K miles it was not a worry as I am very aware of the issues involved. Pulling on muddy fields and up muddy slopes was a complete doddle. 4x4 had through vision in the cars interior mirror too. Anything within the towing limits would be no problem. The cars light weight is clearly the limiting factor. I am considering a light weight caravan again as the towing would be easy. Not much choice at under 800Kgs though! I pull a trailer regularly and it will pull 400kgs with utter ease. Stability and brakes are more than a match for this sort of weight. Off the road pulling logs it moves a pretty large load with little issue too.

Poor old caravan went from here to its final resting place, a breakers in Derby behind my brothers Range Rover. Perhaps I should have let it float away... It did get a last 6 weeks of use though.

I would very strongly recommend you avoid a twin axle box as these are a total pain behind a small car and feel as if they are trying to tear the car in half. Many good points to twin axles but not for small light vehicles. The attitude of the van and angle of attack so to speak is critical to ease of towing and turning. I had a small 4 wheeled trailer that used to literally tear the tyres off the rims when loaded... NOT GOOD.

The lightness of the car is the limiting factor and yes I’m going for a single axle model. Looking at the Debon C255 V2—it weighs about 370kg so I should be able to tow 400kg.

It’s good to know that the Panda can handle 400kg easily.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Just to say be careful of the towing weight limits which are 400kgs unbraked and 800kgs (braked braked trailer) The Diesel can tale this to 900 so my logic with the van is that the car its self and the tow bar should be good for at least 1100kgs allowing there is built in safety margin. The caravan was probably more or less dead on 1000kgs. If your trailer weighs 370 it doesn't give much margin for any payload within legal towing limits. Brakes on the trailer are therefore really a necessity. I live in Norfolk and I regularly see roadside checks on caravans and trailers taking place so you risk a very heavy fine and points if caught out, and the trailer will be impounded until a suitable tow vehicle can be found to move it. This could all get very expensive...

I met a man on the caravan site in my picture who said he towed a caravan for many years with a Panda 169 1.2. He said he did find a few hills in Europe it would not go up, but he seemed to have been to most EU and Balkan countries. He said none of the Pandas put a foot wrong when towing providing he checked his route for really steep gradients.

I towed a folding Gobur caravan all round north Wales many years ago with an 854cc Renault 5. The only refusal was trying to get onto the downs nears Barbury Castle (Swindon). That was really scary having to unhitch on a 1 in 4 hill and turn the van around in the pitch dark. Total madness looking back. Small cars will tow perfectly well as long as you recognise the limits and avoid overloading.

Do keep us posted on how you get on.