Technical 2010 fiat 500 lounge coolant issue

[tommultipla1973]

Hi I haven't been on here in a long time as last time I was I had a multipla. I've just before Xmas got a 20101.2 lounge 500 for really cheap. It runs and drives but has big mileage. When I got it I found the heater matrix was leaking. I've since replaced it which wasn't too bad to do. My problem is I can hear air in the system when starting from cold. Ive flushed the whole system back to front. I sort of get water coming out the bleed valve but then it stops unless I squeeze a hose. The car gets warm and doesn't seem to overheat but I did notice on my diag even after leaving it the temp only gets to roughly 80 degrees. I can't see bubbles in the coolant reservoir. At a bit of loss really to what it could be. Any help or suggestions?

 

[chris3234]

Have you tired both the rad and heater matrix bleed bleeds screw at the back on the engine?

 

[Baglady1990]

How long did you have the car before you discovered the matrix was leaking?
How’s the coolant holding in general since you replaced the matrix ..?

Obviously if you bought it and was already leaking could be issues related to this

 

[tommultipla1973]

Have you tired both the rad and heater matrix bleed bleeds screw at the back on the engine?

Yes. I have reversed flushed the radiator as well.

 

[tommultipla1973]

How long did you have the car before you discovered the matrix was leaking?
How’s the coolant holding in general since you replaced the matrix ..?

Obviously if you bought it and was already leaking could be issues related to this

I knew there was an issue as could smell it through the heater vents when I got it. It was only a minor leak but was fairly easy to replace.

 

[tommultipla1973]

I knew there was an issue as could smell it through the heater vents when I got it. It was only a minor leak but was fairly easy to replace.

It does seem to use say a quarter of a litre over a day or so.

 

[Baglady1990]

Yeah I’ve had to replace mine on my 2011 fairly straightforward job!
If your going through that much coolant that’s not great obviously no leaks from water pump thermostat or any pipes? When was the cam & water pump replaced?
From personal experience that was very if not identical to your issue I’d be buying a sniff test before you do anything else
Obviously I don’t want to scare you! But I’ve been through this issue myself and the outcome was not good … for myself at least!

 

[puntodeltathema]

If your car has the expansion tank integral with the radiator (assume so as it is a 1.2), these can be a little "idiosyncratic" to fill and bleed.

With the car cold and engine off, open both bleed screws and fill the tank until coolant comes of the screws - close each in turn.

With the last one (on the heater hose), the coolant tank will be well above "max" by the time it bleeds through but this is OK. Close the screw, Close the expansion cap. The official procedure (from eLearn) is then:.

- Start up the engine and let it idle for about 3 minutes.

- Carry out periodic acceleration up to around 3000 rpm.

- Check that the refrigerant fluid circulation is correctly activated.

- Activate the vehicle interior heater at the maximum temperature and make sure that hot air comes out of the vents.

- When this check has been carried out, switch off the car interior heater.

- Wait until the fan switches on/off for at least 3 cycles.

- Keep the engine speed at about 3000 rpm for 3 minutes.

- Switch off the engine and wait for the fluid to cool down.

- If necessary, top up the fluid until it reaches the MAX level or draw off any excess fluid using a syringe.


I've found that the periodic acceleration up to 3000 rpm is necessary to drive the air out of the heater circuit.

This advice is obviously for workshops, where you don't want to be handing back a gurgly car to a customer - but in practice any residual air will tend to purge itself in use, though you need to keep an eye on the expansion tank.

The cars with the separate expansion tank are a little more "normal".

Nick

 

[tommultipla1973]

If your car has the expansion tank integral with the radiator (assume so as it is a 1.2), these can be a little "idiosyncratic" to fill and bleed.

With the car cold and engine off, open both bleed screws and fill the tank until coolant comes of the screws - close each in turn.

With the last one (on the heater hose), the coolant tank will be well above "max" by the time it bleeds through but this is OK. Close the screw, Close the expansion cap. The official procedure (from eLearn) is then:.

- Start up the engine and let it idle for about 3 minutes.

- Carry out periodic acceleration up to around 3000 rpm.

- Check that the refrigerant fluid circulation is correctly activated.

- Activate the vehicle interior heater at the maximum temperature and make sure that hot air comes out of the vents.

- When this check has been carried out, switch off the car interior heater.

- Wait until the fan switches on/off for at least 3 cycles.

- Keep the engine speed at about 3000 rpm for 3 minutes.

- Switch off the engine and wait for the fluid to cool down.

- If necessary, top up the fluid until it reaches the MAX level or draw off any excess fluid using a syringe.


I've found that the periodic acceleration up to 3000 rpm is necessary to drive the air out of the heater circuit.

This advice is obviously for workshops, where you don't want to be handing back a gurgly car to a customer - but in practice any residual air will tend to purge itself in use, though you need to keep an eye on the expansion tank.

The cars with the separate expansion tank are a little more "normal".

Nick

Thanks for that. I'm used to doing stuff like this but guess it's trying it a different way. To be honest I was wondering head gasket but carried out a gas test and showed ok plus no milky residue in the system. I will give yours a try. Thank you.

 

[tommultipla1973]

Yeah I’ve had to replace mine on my 2011 fairly straightforward job!
If your going through that much coolant that’s not great obviously no leaks from water pump thermostat or any pipes? When was the cam & water pump replaced?
From personal experience that was very if not identical to your issue I’d be buying a sniff test before you do anything else
Obviously I don’t want to scare you! But I’ve been through this issue myself and the outcome was not good … for myself at least!

I've only had the car right before Xmas and as the matrix was leaking it needed replacing anyway. I did carry out a sniff test just incase and seems fine there was no change In colour of the test fluid. As for the belt and pump no idea. I took of the air filter today and ended cleaning out the breather pipes and the filter where they go to as full of gunk. This car has ahad a hard life but its worth saving.

 

[tommultipla1973]

Have you tired both the rad and heater matrix bleed bleeds screw at the back on the engine?

Yes somebody has pointed me to another way of bleeding the system so will give that a try.

 

[Baglady1990]

I’d take off the top cover off the belt & give it a look over better safe than sorry! Hopefully it’s already been done but like you say the car has had a hard life & it’s high mileage

Good news you done a sniff test keep us updated on how you get on!

 

[tommultipla1973]

Unfortunately noticed white smoke coming from exhaust and there's definitely no leaks so looks like engine is going to be replaced.

 

[puntodeltathema]

Smoke or steam? If excessive steam/water vapour you may have a head gasket leak (it can leak by sucking coolant into a cylinder without necessarily pressurising the cooling system or displaying other "classic" signs). But that needn't mean a new engine, and make sure you've given your car enough time to purge air after the heater matrix replacement (and otherwise stabilise) before doing anything!

Nick