Technical Diesel 2009 DUCATO

[ARiggs1]

Hi guys. I have bought a 2009 DUCATO van multi jet.

It need some TLC and hoping to find some help for some bits!

First thing is the central locking. When the button is pressed to lock, the front door lock and nothing else.

Where do you guys suggest I start with this? Replacing door locks or is there a different root?

Also I am missing a rear door inside plastic lock switch thing. I can lock the rear door by hand but using the mechanism inside the door but there isn’t a plastic trim that should be in there like the handle.

Thanks for any future help

Adam

 

[bugsymike]

Hi guys. I have bought a 2009 DUCATO van multi jet.

It need some TLC and hoping to find some help for some bits!

First thing is the central locking. When the button is pressed to lock, the front door lock and nothing else.

Where do you guys suggest I start with this? Replacing door locks or is there a different root?

Also I am missing a rear door inside plastic lock switch thing. I can lock the rear door by hand but using the mechanism inside the door but there isn’t a plastic trim that should be in there like the handle.

Thanks for any future help

Adam

Assuming it was originally supplied as a Commercial/delivery van, is it possible the rear locking was controlled internally, even a Doblo van I have I can unlock the front doors with the key in door lock ( no remote fob), but the rear security side could only be unlocked via a button inside the van on drivers window switch panel.
Do you have a remote fob and if so has it been programmed? I know on Fiat Scudos and Citroen Dispatch vans I had, if main battery had gone flat or disconnected in the wrong way it needed the fob re aligning with the vehicle BCM computer. Also if you have a remote fob , is it a three button or just a two?

 

[ARiggs1]

thanks for the reply!

I do believe that it was a panel van previously!

So I have a key fob with 3 buttons on. When I unlock and lock with the key fob, both doors make the mechanical lock/unlock noise and the rear does too (but rear door doesn’t lock)

The sliding door doesn’t even make a noise either and I have a key entry on the sliding door so guessing there has been an issue or something.

Just want it back to everything locking and unlocking with the key fob but don’t know where to start or how to correct it!

 

[bugsymike]

thanks for the reply!

I do believe that it was a panel van previously!

So I have a key fob with 3 buttons on. When I unlock and lock with the key fob, both doors make the mechanical lock/unlock noise and the rear does too (but rear door doesn’t lock)

The sliding door doesn’t even make a noise either and I have a key entry on the sliding door so guessing there has been an issue or something.

Just want it back to everything locking and unlocking with the key fob but don’t know where to start or how to correct it!

Regarding the rear door lock and it making a noise from it's locking solenoid, is the door out of line/not shutting all the way. As a test open the rear door, then use a screwdriver or similar to flick the door lock catch all the way to it's second fully closed position and see if the fob will then lock it and unlock it. I assume you can manually release the rear door as though you were opening it.
If it still doesn't activate correctly then I would test that lock further, have you got the panel off to see what is happening some have a vehicles have the solenoid separate in which case a rod may have become disconnected or broken.
What ever you do remember to release the rear door catch before slamming it or you will damage the lock.
In the past I had several customers with large vans although mostly manual locking not key fobs, a lot of the door issues , particularly the sliding doors was when they became out of adjustment from years of slamming.
I would also advise working on them with the interior panel off in case any thing jams or refuses to unlock then hopefully you can access the mechanism.

 

[Communicator]

The sliding door locking uses a set of contacts inside the lower rear corner of the door. My x244 PVC has only two contacts for the lock motor only, with no central locking facility from that door. On the OP's x250 model, I believe there are 5 contacts allowing central locking via the key when used at that door. I have seen reference to the mounting for the contacts, on either the door or the body being made from card like material that distorted when it got damp, which it will do. One fix was to insert e pack behind the offending part. However as a first move make sure that the contacts are clean.

 

[ARiggs1]

The sliding door locking uses a set of contacts inside the lower rear corner of the door. My x244 PVC has only two contacts for the lock motor only, with no central locking facility from that door. On the OP's x250 model, I believe there are 5 contacts allowing central locking via the key when used at that door. I have seen reference to the mounting for the contacts, on either the door or the body being made from card like material that distorted when it got damp, which it will do. One fix was to insert e pack behind the offending part. However as a first move make sure that the contacts are clean.

Will that stop the mechanism attempting to lock? I can’t hear anything from that door when locking or unlocking

 

[Communicator]

Will that stop the mechanism attempting to lock? I can’t hear anything from that door when locking or unlocking

Yes ,if no power to lock motor, then no central locking/unlocking on that door.

 

[ARiggs1]

Regarding the rear door lock and it making a noise from it's locking solenoid, is the door out of line/not shutting all the way. As a test open the rear door, then use a screwdriver or similar to flick the door lock catch all the way to it's second fully closed position and see if the fob will then lock it and unlock it. I assume you can manually release the rear door as though you were opening it.
If it still doesn't activate correctly then I would test that lock further, have you got the panel off to see what is happening some have a vehicles have the solenoid separate in which case a rod may have become disconnected or broken.
What ever you do remember to release the rear door catch before slamming it or you will damage the lock.
In the past I had several customers with large vans although mostly manual locking not key fobs, a lot of the door issues , particularly the sliding doors was when they became out of adjustment from years of slamming.
I would also advise working on them with the interior panel off in case any thing jams or refuses to unlock then hopefully you can access the mechanism.

Ah ok I see, yes I’ll take the card off and see what’s what, I’ll try taking a video after of what I mean to see if it makes more sense but yes definitely the solenoid is activating to some extent.

Door doesn’t seem to be out of line, I can close it pretty well but I suppose it is a 17 year old van but I would like to bring it back up to good health to be honest!

 

[Communicator]

Ah ok I see, yes I’ll take the card off and see what’s what, I’ll try taking a video after of what I mean to see if it makes more sense but yes definitely the solenoid is activating to some extent.

Door doesn’t seem to be out of line, I can close it pretty well but I suppose it is a 17 year old van but I would like to bring it back up to good health to be honest!

Looking online there are several offers of contact plates for x250 Ducato and similar. None show the 5 pins that I mentioned, so perhaps I was too generous. If you go to the downloads section - commercials - Ducato - Training Manual, and download the larger file, there is a section about locking, which may be of interest. Alternatively there is eLearn for the x250, but that is a very large file, which some have had trouble unzipping.

 

[bugsymike]

Looking online there are several offers of contact plates for x250 Ducato and similar. None show the 5 pins that I mentioned, so perhaps I was too generous. If you go to the downloads section - commercials - Ducato - Training Manual, and download the larger file, there is a section about locking, which may be of interest. Alternatively there is eLearn for the x250, but that is a very large file, which some have had trouble unzipping.

I see the Fiat Scudo's have some with 6 pins so maybe it depends what options the van has from new on the Ducato's also.

 

[ARiggs1]

Ok cool, I shall try dig out that file and see if it can help me some more!

I’ve replaced my sliding door handle today and checked the intervals and there is a door unlatch cable (unsure of the name) that was connected which is broken!

Also someone has put a lock on the outside and attached it to what I’m guessing is the rear latch for the sliding door, which I have to insert the key and turn aswell as pulling the handle to open the sliding door which is a right pain because it doesn’t work very well at all! And means I cannot open the sliding door from the inside too!!

I have attached the video of the rear door too.
Seems like when I have the rear door open and press the unlock/lock button it work but once I close it, it doesn’t seem to work then!

 

[bugsymike]

Ok cool, I shall try dig out that file and see if it can help me some more!

I’ve replaced my sliding door handle today and checked the intervals and there is a door unlatch cable (unsure of the name) that was connected which is broken!

Also someone has put a lock on the outside and attached it to what I’m guessing is the rear latch for the sliding door, which I have to insert the key and turn aswell as pulling the handle to open the sliding door which is a right pain because it doesn’t work very well at all! And means I cannot open the sliding door from the inside too!!

I have attached the video of the rear door too.
Seems like when I have the rear door open and press the unlock/lock button it work but once I close it, it doesn’t seem to work then!

It seems like a fair bit of reconstruction needed on sliding door (it may need a shave first.)
Re the back door do you mean when you opened it and manually moved the lock catch all the way then it would lock and unlock electronically?
If so then it is either not shutting fully when closing normally or the electrics are intermittent and do not work when the door is in closed position, sometimes that can be a break in the wiring at the door hinge area.

 

[ARiggs1]

It seems like a fair bit of reconstruction needed on sliding door (it may need a shave first.)
Re the back door do you mean when you opened it and manually moved the lock catch all the way then it would lock and unlock electronically?
If so then it is either not shutting fully when closing normally or the electrics are intermittent and do not work when the door is in closed position, sometimes that can be a break in the wiring at the door hinge area.

So the back door. If I open it and click unlock/lock on the key fob it is doing it as it should but when the door is closed, no such luck!

What do you mean with the sliding door!? Am I just better getting one from eBay and fitting it!? Is not that straight forward!?

I just want central locking back working on it as it should! Unlock everything and lock everything with the key fob!

Surely I’m not asking much!!

 

[bugsymike]

So the back door. If I open it and click unlock/lock on the key fob it is doing it as it should but when the door is closed, no such luck!

What do you mean with the sliding door!? Am I just better getting one from eBay and fitting it!? Is not that straight forward!?

I just want central locking back working on it as it should! Unlock everything and lock everything with the key fob!

Surely I’m not asking much!!

If you get the identical sliding door with same number of electrical contact pins, then it should just be a case of lifting heavy door on and off and securing it to the runners in the correct position so it all lines up. Did you say it had a manual lock on that door as well , if so you will need to change the lock barrel/handle assembly or have another key on key ring assuming you got a key from scrapyard.

 

[ARiggs1]

If you get the identical sliding door with same number of electrical contact pins, then it should just be a case of lifting heavy door on and off and securing it to the runners in the correct position so it all lines up. Did you say it had a manual lock on that door as well , if so you will need to change the lock barrel/handle assembly or have another key on key ring assuming you got a key from scrapyard.

Yes I’ve got the key to use the sliding door currently it’s just a pain and not the easiest and the wife really struggles to use it tbh!

What contact pins do you mean sorry? Is it the contractors that’s are on the body and the sliding door that should touch when close?

When you say contact pins, would a same van as mine have different amount of container pins?

Will changing the lock mechanism on the door help? Will it need coding to the van or anything or just plug and play?

Sorry for mountain of questions!

 

[Communicator]

@ARiggs1 , Mike retires early.

If you are considering changing the sliding door, please be aware that it is VERY HEAVY, and you will require some of lifting equipment to handle it.

Mike will have been referring to the contact pins on the door, which must make a good connection with the corresponding contacts on the body, when the door is in the closed position. If not already done I suggest cleaning the contact faces. I use a glass fibre pencil, but you could use fine wet & dry paper, or similar abrasive.

If the door has been distorted, then changing the lock mechanism is unlikely to help, unless it also has been damaged. On my x244 the lock motors do not require coding to the vehicle, and I cannot think of any reason why your later model should be any different.

 

[bugsymike]

Yes I’ve got the key to use the sliding door currently it’s just a pain and not the easiest and the wife really struggles to use it tbh!

What contact pins do you mean sorry? Is it the contractors that’s are on the body and the sliding door that should touch when close?

When you say contact pins, would a same van as mine have different amount of container pins?

Will changing the lock mechanism on the door help? Will it need coding to the van or anything or just plug and play?

Sorry for mountain of questions!

Yes the contactors have to match and do the same jobs, some same model vans can have more upmarket options with extra pins to do extra functions, so safest to keep with your setup.
If it was me I would try to rectify the lock issue first rather than fit a whole door, although you mentioned an extra after market lock had been fitted to outside, so for aesthetic reasons you may wish to fit the whole door and paint to match unless you can obtain same colour, it will be quite a heavy job so I assume you have an assistant. Also attention to aligning it up is critical and lubricating the runners for smooth operation as side door do give a lot of trouble in that area on many large vans. It is often best when closing from outside to use one hand to pull on the handle and the other to push the rear of the door towards the lock area, keeping fingers clear obviously.
I am not aware of any need for "coding" on this job.
No problem with questions, if you don't ask, you don't learn, I am happy for others with more specific knowledge to make a suggestion.

 

[Communicator]

Yes the contactors have to match and do the same jobs, some same model vans can have more upmarket options with extra pins to do extra functions, so safest to keep with your setup.
If it was me I would try to rectify the lock issue first rather than fit a whole door, although you mentioned an extra after market lock had been fitted to outside, so for aesthetic reasons you may wish to fit the whole door and paint to match unless you can obtain same colour, it will be quite a heavy job so I assume you have an assistant. Also attention to aligning it up is critical and lubricating the runners for smooth operation as side door do give a lot of trouble in that area on many large vans. It is often best when closing from outside to use one hand to pull on the handle and the other to push the rear of the door towards the lock area, keeping fingers clear obviously.
I am not aware of any need for "coding" on this job.
No problem with questions, if you don't ask, you don't learn, I am happy for others with more specific knowledge to make a suggestion.

Keep the runners clean, but from my own experience I have strong reservations about lubricating them. The rollers are sealed ball bearings with what I think are nylon tyres. Many years ago I applied a lubricant spray in the runner/roller area. The result was that the bottom roller tyre stretched and would not stay on the roller. I had to replace the whole front roller assembly at cost exceeding £163 for the assembly. Probably over £200 at todays prices.

 

[bugsymike]

Keep the runners clean, but from my own experience I have strong reservations about lubricating them. The rollers are sealed ball bearings with what I think are nylon tyres. Many years ago I applied a lubricant spray in the runner/roller area. The result was that the bottom roller tyre stretched and would not stay on the roller. I had to replace the whole front roller assembly at cost exceeding £163 for the assembly. Probably over £200 at todays prices.

Runners important to be clean, on most vans I have worked on it has been steel bearings/rollers without rubber so was not an issue, but I agree where rubber or plastics involved then keep oil away. I see on this Iveco one it is steel bearings , but does have a nylon guide roller also, although many Fiat versions are rubber rollers so need to be oil free.