Technical 2.0JTD Wastegate Solonoid fault HELP!

[terrylee]

I have a Ulysse 2.0 JTD S 02 reg. I’ve searched the forum and hope someone can help. I have lack of power on hills in fact down to 3rd gear on a slight incline if there is a head wind. Goes like a rocket round town especially from cold. I have tried every angle I can find in the forum so far. Over
4000 RPMs you can here the injectors kick in and there is a big trail of BLACK smoke. Wastegate actuator on turbo is working if I suck on the pipe from the turbo to the solenoid at the solnoid end (centre solenoid above radiator between EGR and Throttle solonoid) you can here it click shut on release of vacuum. Changed MAF Sensor. Checked all the pipes and got a fault code readout which states “Wastegate Solonoid Fault”. Had all the faults cleared and fitted new solenoid and still the same fault came back. The guy at the garage now said it can only be an ECU fault or the connections to the ECU from the Wastegate solenoid. I’m at the end of my tether now. Does any one please have any input other than what I’ve already read and tried? If I need another ECU can I just get a second hand one from a breaker or will I need to get it programmed in. I’d be greatful for any help thank you. Terrylee

 

[chrismorris34]

I have a similar problem but I know my turbo's knackered sorry to be the bearer of bad news but it's not any easy or cheap job
Chris

 

[cipher]

Had a very similar issue here too, with my 2000 JTD EL.

Just managed to get hold of a used turbo, in the process of replacing it.

Not easy, the manifold bolts are a cow, and there is sod all room for any tools! plenty of skinned knuckes!

Chris, any tips on getting the thing off? got all the bolts off the ex. manifold, but it wont budge!, it is loose, and it rocks about, it is still just not coming away.

 

[chrismorris34]

Sorry no tips I only know it's usally an engine out job. or take the head off. These are great buses but a bitch to work on just replaced a brake servo that should be an engine out job but found a way around it if you need to do that job get in touch i'll let u know how i did it
Chris

 

[cipher]

Okay,

Having now done two turbos, there is a easier way of doing it without taking the engine out:

remove the air box, and the pipe work to the turbo.
remove the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler (runs underneath the sump)
remove the cat section of the exhaust (one clamp before the mid silencer, and two spring bolts on the back of the turbo)
You will find it much easier to remove the OSF driveshaft, as this makes access to the turbo easier, and means that you can actually get the old unit out.

Undo the four bolts that secure the turbo to the manifold (they should be 13mm, but some are 11mm).

You can get to one from underneath, and two from the OSF wheel well, the other has to be done blind from under the bonnet, you will have to feel about for the bolt, and don't confuse it with the manifold bolt. You will be better with an open ended spanner, there is no room for a ratchet.

Disconnec the wastegate vacuum feed line, and the oil drain (you may need to replace the hose clamps with jubilee type clips on refitting.

Finally, undo the oil supply line, this is usually a 10mm Hex key. It is tight.

Remove the old turbo, and fit the new one.

Refit the oil supply line before bolting the turbo into place, you will find the easier to do by pointing the top of the new turbo that the line goes into toward the OSF wheel well. Then position it back onto the manifold and tighten the bolts.

Refit the exhaust, and the air pipes, and the bottom oil drain.

Don't forget the wastegate vacuum feed.