hi i need help asap i just got a 1997 1.6 sx auto brava once i got it home around 17 miles when i went back out for a drive i found a warning light i cant remeber if it was all ready on or not when i 1st saw the car but once i paid for the car im left with nealy no cash left.so from the reading iv done its a injection system malfunction light iv done some more reading and been told i can reset the ecu by cuting all power to the ecu for 45min then once power back to it that will clear the light but be for i try this i didnt get a red key so will i need this if i lose all power to the car.also do you fink this would work or will it just hide a prob if this dont work is there any cheap way to fix meny thanks
Technical 1997 1.6 auto brava help
- Thread starter lilweed
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Technical 1997 1.6 auto brava help
jonnyald
New member
dont !disconnect your e.c.u. nor the cars battery , cos u will need the RED-KEY to restart the car , and no other way will start the car
besides you need to get the fault codes read to find out which bit of the injection system is duff . make sure you tell whoever reads the fault codes , DONT EVER DISCONNECT the battery
besides you need to get the fault codes read to find out which bit of the injection system is duff . make sure you tell whoever reads the fault codes , DONT EVER DISCONNECT the battery
Its a sensor failure. Even if you were to clear the ECU by disconnecting the battery, the light would be straight back on the minute the dodgy sensor was seen by the ECU.
With a 97 car you might find it difficult to get the codes read, so it will probably be a case of getting the meter out and checking each component.
Cheers
SPD
With a 97 car you might find it difficult to get the codes read, so it will probably be a case of getting the meter out and checking each component.
Cheers
SPD
oh no thats bad as i need to get a new battry so will i need the red key when i put a new battry in it i wish i didnt buy this car now lol.the aa came out today and said i need a new coil pack as there is a mis fire also my battry died on me so had to use a jump box need help asap as i wana put battry in to night meny thanks
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What a load of rubbish. The red key is only used to pair new keys to the cars immobiliser only. Today you dont need the red key as many places can by pass it or communicate with the old one to add new blue keys or even the red.
You may need a code for the radio if you disconnect the battery but thats it.
You may need a code for the radio if you disconnect the battery but thats it.
exhaust
New member
That's right, but maybe he will not need even codes for radio.
Just disconnect the battery and check it out.
thanks guys i will just give it a go ya i think the radio might need a code but tbh i just want to get my brava working again so dont mind loseing the radio the aa told me i need the coil pack but not to sure if this light would come on just over the coil pack.but today when the bat died the key code light came on but while trying to start the car but once i jumped startd the car it went off hopeing this is not a new prob lol
just one more thing while driveing to night the arning light ent out and i had very nice power in the car it went like a rocket but about 15min later it came back on then later on it went out and came back on just realy need to know if this the coil pack as im buying one to moz the aa done some tests and said i need a coil pack but tbh im not sure meny thanks
exhaust
New member
Tomorrow morning I will post also for your coil figures when tested with OHM meter, if you have it.
I have changed my coil and the warning light NEVER appeared and it was deffective!!!
So first thing is to check injectors or in your case one of the sensors; as you DON"T have MAF sensor, there is KNOCK sensor to check and crank-shaft position sensor.
For prevention, use STP injector cleaner every 3 months.
Also, a lambda sensor could be the problem and/or spark plugs. If you have aluminum intake manifold (engines prior 04/1999) then I recommend the best spark plug there is - Denso Irridium IK16 or if you have open air filter (i.e. K&N kit) IK20, just to start eliminating problems.
More tomorrow morning.... have to check my records.....
I have changed my coil and the warning light NEVER appeared and it was deffective!!!
So first thing is to check injectors or in your case one of the sensors; as you DON"T have MAF sensor, there is KNOCK sensor to check and crank-shaft position sensor.
For prevention, use STP injector cleaner every 3 months.
Also, a lambda sensor could be the problem and/or spark plugs. If you have aluminum intake manifold (engines prior 04/1999) then I recommend the best spark plug there is - Denso Irridium IK16 or if you have open air filter (i.e. K&N kit) IK20, just to start eliminating problems.
More tomorrow morning.... have to check my records.....
Last edited:
ok thanks mate very good info .the aa guy said the plugs and leads are fine he gave them a clean as well so i dont think its the plugs.the coil has been orderd so i will pick it up and fit it any way the aa guy was testing it buy take the speak leads off one buy one the last one he got to done some think and he said it is miss fireing and i will need a coil pack meny thanks
exhaust
New member
check this post for coil testing, for your future info:
https://www.fiatforum.com/bravo-bra...-injection-symbol-wont-go-away.html?p=2359201
If it is misfiring, it could be coil or just a little bit dirty injectors.
A know your engine as my heart, as I had it in marea and you should drive that engine once in while until limiter (6750 rpm) to get it right.
Thrust me, my engine got 115 HP with my style of maintenance....
https://www.fiatforum.com/bravo-bra...-injection-symbol-wont-go-away.html?p=2359201
If it is misfiring, it could be coil or just a little bit dirty injectors.
A know your engine as my heart, as I had it in marea and you should drive that engine once in while until limiter (6750 rpm) to get it right.
Thrust me, my engine got 115 HP with my style of maintenance....
exhaust
New member
Specification for testing your, 1.6 16v coil is:
Primary resistance - 0,55 to 0,61 OHMS
Secondary reistance - 8645 to 9555 OHMS.
For some future problems:
Cranshaft TDC sensor - 575 to 750 OHMS
cheers
Primary resistance - 0,55 to 0,61 OHMS
Secondary reistance - 8645 to 9555 OHMS.
For some future problems:
Cranshaft TDC sensor - 575 to 750 OHMS
cheers
thanks guys well a bit pissd of still i fited the new coil pack i all so put 1/2 of wynns injector cleaner in the fule tank i taken it on a 3 mile test trip and the light was on and off car was still shakey and slow then on the way back the light went out and for around 3 miles the car was very nice but soon as i parked it had a cupa whent back out the light back on so on the way back to my place 9 miles i got pissd off with the car and stepd down on the gas its a auto so kick down made a bit of a splater then gave me a bit of speed the light whent out i stepd of the gas but soon as my foot whent on the gas light back on so for 5 miles i was doing this kick down light off then off the gas back on the gas light on so i realy dont know what this could be i havent got got any cash now for a few weeks so was hopeing one of you guys might pin point the prob .my thoghts was may be it takes time for the injector cleaner to work or maybe the coil is fine now but ecu needs a reset or or may be i have some think lose any help will be very good .what i did find was soon as i got the car back home i put it in park and it was shakeing realy bad i got fell it on my seat and the steering wheel could this still be a miss fire meny thanks
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You should always get a diagnostic done 1st before you start wasting money. That way you'll get a print out of the error code and it'll be the best £20-£30 you'll spend towards fixing your car. Obviously dont take it to Fiat as it'll cost you £40 -£90 for the same printout. A good auto electrician should have the 3pin diagnostic socket for your vehicle.
Also the red injector warning light is the engine management light, and it'll light up to a whole host of vehicle sensor manfunctions or faults. It doesn't necessarily mean Injectors.
Also the red injector warning light is the engine management light, and it'll light up to a whole host of vehicle sensor manfunctions or faults. It doesn't necessarily mean Injectors.
i know mate i realy do need to get a test done just realy skint mate the parts i got did not cost me a penny as i know the owner of my car parts shop so i got the coil for £28 and the cleaner for £3 and i dont have to pay them but what i will sort them out when i got da cash.i will get a test done in two weeks i was just hopeing some one had the same prob as me and could pin point it for me has any one got a work shop book for this car that i can down load meny thanks
exhaust
New member
According to Haynes Workshop manual, check following:
- worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs
- faulty spark plug leads
- fuel injectors partially blocked
- fuel injector wiring disconnected or damaged
this is pure c/p from the manual,
cheers.
- worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs
- faulty spark plug leads
- fuel injectors partially blocked
- fuel injector wiring disconnected or damaged
this is pure c/p from the manual,
cheers.
Take the plugs out, check the gap, adjust as/if neccessary, refit.
Run engine at night with bonnet open, look, don't touch spark plug leads. Checking for blue flashes that shouldn't be there.
Cheers
SPD
Run engine at night with bonnet open, look, don't touch spark plug leads. Checking for blue flashes that shouldn't be there.
Cheers
SPD
Thrisey
New member
Sounds like a fuel problem, could well be injectors playing up have you checked your fuel filter, find it strange how when you give it the beans it clears and runs fine then comes back, I don't know many electrical problems that would do that, that to me sounds like fuel system some where.
Coil went on mine - never put the injector light on, you say AA chappie was pulling plug leads do you know which cylinder showed up as this 'coil problem'
as this may be the key to your probelm, it may be a duff injector or even a duff plug, which you have forced to fire again by thrashing the car once clear it stays clear whilst you are driving hard but re fouls again when you slow down, so I supose in a way it could a be a coil, but I would go for more a lead, as the coils are in two banks so in theory 2 cylinders should play up unless that is what the AA chappie spotted, my coil was causing missfire under load, yours seems to be the other way around, I would be looking at plugs and injectors, also find and check fuel filter, as for the red key!!!! load of crap, I had my red key never used it ever! replaced one battery, car was off road with battery disconect for 1 week for head gasket, and 2 days for clutch replacement, all that happens is you lose radio code, and car goes into self learning mode when you drive it, in other words it relearns how to operate efficiantly to your driving style. uses quite a bit of juice for a while... think it is around 100 miles but red key.. no handy to have but in 6 years of ownership.......................never used it!
Coil went on mine - never put the injector light on, you say AA chappie was pulling plug leads do you know which cylinder showed up as this 'coil problem'
as this may be the key to your probelm, it may be a duff injector or even a duff plug, which you have forced to fire again by thrashing the car once clear it stays clear whilst you are driving hard but re fouls again when you slow down, so I supose in a way it could a be a coil, but I would go for more a lead, as the coils are in two banks so in theory 2 cylinders should play up unless that is what the AA chappie spotted, my coil was causing missfire under load, yours seems to be the other way around, I would be looking at plugs and injectors, also find and check fuel filter, as for the red key!!!! load of crap, I had my red key never used it ever! replaced one battery, car was off road with battery disconect for 1 week for head gasket, and 2 days for clutch replacement, all that happens is you lose radio code, and car goes into self learning mode when you drive it, in other words it relearns how to operate efficiantly to your driving style. uses quite a bit of juice for a while... think it is around 100 miles but red key.. no handy to have but in 6 years of ownership.......................never used it!
thats some very good info mate i think you have a good point.i think the aa said it was the last plug on the coil i think it go's to the 1st spark plug iv taken the new coil off as when i fited it i saw a big crack where the plug fits in so im going to take it back do you know how i can test the injectors meny thanks
