You should never use gasket cement on a head gasket - it will lead to false torque readings and an uneven seal. The head gasket should incorporate all the adhesive you need in its construction.
I would have to look the correct torque settings up as I don't have any reference data to hand except for the older 10 bolt configuration (early 19mm and later 17mm variants). What I can tell you is that the torque-up process is done in four stages on your engine. First pass is to a set torque value (on the old 17mm 10 bolt head this was to 14.5ftlb), then up the torque (to 29ftlb), next mark the heads of each bolt and tighten them through 90 degrees, finally tighten them all through another 90 degrees. Each pass should follow a set order and you should include all of the bolts before moving onto the next pass.
The order is to start from the back (away from the spark plugs) centre and work outwards in a cross pattern.
(plug side)
8 6 2 5 10
7 3 1 4 9
(manifold side)
Note the process remains the same but the actual torque settings will be different as you have the four extra bolts. The sequence of tightening will also be different (slightly).
Skimming the head should not make any difference to the torque settings, the only thing it will change is the cam timing and then only by a small amount. If you absolutely have to get the timing spot on then you would need a vernier cam pulley but for most purposes this is completely over the top.
Just make sure that all of your (new) bolts are clean, as are the threads on the head. If there is any debris or oil in the bolt holes you need to clean it out. Ideally the bolt threads should be *very* lightly oiled to make sure they don't stick. Fiat specify SAE30 oil for this and allow the bolts, nuts and washers to drain for 30 minutes before using them.
Just be glad it isn't a Jaguar V8 bottom end - officially these have to be performed by machine and all bolts are simultaneously torqued up at the same level as any inconsistency will result in the crank plane distorting.
