General 1108 NA tuning?

[jaydr]

:yum::yum::yum::yum::yum::yum::yum::yum::yum::yum: i think so but they somehow manage to luck a bit errrmmm well crap in the brochure lol

 

[arc]

mine are basically the 14" version of the Abarth Speedline Cinquecento wheels

 

[jaydr]

mine are basically the 14" version of the Abarth Speedline Cinquecento wheels

i think the ones in the brochure may be 13s but im not certain also the edges look squarer on the ones pictured compared to yours. That is one sweet little cinq you've got there arc

 

[fingers99]

I'd go for Compomotive MOs in 14" 6J 35et. Many of the Alfa 14" wheels will fit, too, but tend to be 5.5J which limits your tyre choice. But 185/50/14 will be fine for any NA car.

 

[Renrut]

Back to the OT of the NA engine tuning front - Is there any merit to increasing the compression on a 1108 with only moderate breathing mods and a P75 cam (slightly more wild iirc)?

I know its a fairly low comp by modern standards of 9.6:1 hence why they take well to low pressure turbos. So would upping the compression to 10:1 or 10.5:1 have any noticable benefit or would it just be a big waste of time unless I go the crazy cams and fully balanced etc?

 

[fingers99]

It'll help. But to get the most from it you'll need a remap or aftermarket ECU.

 

[craigb244]

It'll help. But to get the most from it you'll need a remap or aftermarket ECU.

increasing CR is always good as it increases the efficiency of the engine. you really want to run the highest compression you can before you start to get detonation on the fuel you plan to use. (the reason cars use run a rather low compression is there expected to run on nats **** fuel... we are lucky here to have decent quality fuel)

 

[Renrut]

So does anyone know what the limit on compression ratio is approximately on the 1.1 FIRE running on 98+ (BP ultimate etc?)

This is assuming I get the head off and give it a good clean to remove any det inducing sharp edges etc.

ETA - And using either standard cam or P75 cam as reference point.

 

[fingers99]

Conventional wisdom seems to be that you can take it down to the max skim measurements (the little dimples on the face of the head). After that you'll no longer have a "safe" engine. So you might want to look at an adjustable cam pulley, too.There are different thicknesses of HG available, also.

So many factors are important regarding detonation. Most obvious ones are fuelling and ignition timing. (Which is why I suggest an aftermarket ECU.) You also want to use the hardest plug you can without fouling (maybe an 8 or even 9 in the NGK range).

NA tuning to the limit is probably at least as expensive as going turbo.

"DIY flowbench" in Google throws up some stuff which might be of interest. Some good general ideas about porting here.

 

[Brooky]

Conventional wisdom seems to be that you can take it down to the max skim measurements (the little dimples on the face of the head). After that you'll no longer have a "safe" engine. So you might want to look at an adjustable cam pulley, too.There are different thicknesses of HG available, also.

Ive gone past the skim markers now and will be using the skinny metal gasket:devil:

 

[randomizered]

The 1368 16v runs a 11:1 compression. I'd imagine the 1108 could handle it, but fuelling and ignition map will need a twiddle as said.

Kristian

 

[jaydr]

so to draw a conclusion from all this i suppose that money wise its better spent on a turbo conversion over na tuning the 1108

 

[craigb244]

it will be "cheeper" still expensive tho... main reason been is that 90% of turbo stuff you can do yourself.

 

[fingers99]

For a healthier wallet, fit a 1.4 16v. It'll never have the lunatic barsteward character of a high boost tub, but it'll be a lot easier to drive, perhaps faster point to point, and will likely be as reliable as a Panda 100hp.

 

[randomizered]

Tuned up like mine, they are still not that manageable if you are giving it some stick

I guess for the 16v though, if you keep below 4K you have less torque which make things easier, unlike the turbo where it all kicks in low down. The n/a gives you a bit of grace period, and is more forgiving

Also, tuned, they are certainly not going to be as reliable as a stock 100hp, my valves, seats and cam will waer quicker, the bottom end will suffer more, and i am suffereing piston slap at high speed, high rpm when flooring it WOT. Plus it's FAR more tempting to work it hard. Compared to driving an ACTUAL 100hp, it's like night and day, the 100hp is lackluster and uninspiring.

Still a great laugh! Roll on the LSD and the next rebuild/regeneration :devil: :slayer:

 

[craigb244]

tell me about it... today i had to go across a weird crap set out junction. (you gotta go left then right to go ahead while playing chicken with cars on the main road)
gave it some stick as i crossed the road then turned and gave it a bit more. as i strightend up the car was not really speeding up. untill i let off the throttle and it regained grip (strangely could not feel the car wheel spinning). grrr really do need that LSD

sorted a gearbox yet kritip? I got myself a punto 55 6 speed box thats got a bolted diff... might be shat for the turbo but it will do until i can find a proper box

 

[randomizered]

sorted a gearbox yet kritip? I got myself a punto 55 6 speed box thats got a bolted diff... might be shat for the turbo but it will do until i can find a proper box

Mine has been droning and whining for a while. It's ill, BUT i'm hoping its the diff Mine is a bolted crown

It may be the input shaft bearing, but I may just replace that while its off the car (I know I can do it on, but I got a few other things to fit )

Kristian

 

[craigb244]

what box is that then? original cento?

 

[fingers99]

Compared to driving an ACTUAL 100hp, it's like night and day, the 100hp is lackluster and uninspiring.

Mind you, your car must be 300kilos lighter than a Pandy 100hp!

 

[randomizered]

what box is that then? original cento?

Panda 100hp box