So why do you have splines on transfer shafts?
Fitting dowels increases the contact surface area to cut down the shear stresses.
A bolt through the centre relies only on friction to hold the object.
Tuning 1.2 8v Rebuild/Tuning
- Thread starter Todger182
- Start date
Currently reading:
Tuning 1.2 8v Rebuild/Tuning
So why do you have splines on transfer shafts?
Fitting dowels increases the contact surface area to cut down the shear stresses.
A bolt through the centre relies only on friction to hold the object.
They're generally not transfering huge shock loads and are pretty sloppily made. It's a case of what you can get away with. Conversely, a conventional supercharge takes something like 50 times the load of an alternator and the rotor pulses introduce shock loads on top of that.
Doesn't exactly increase the surface area, more introduces something else to shear. Take a look at the end of a FIRE crank. It's tiny! There's no room for dowels of any useful size anyway.
A taper on the pulley and crank end and a bigger bolt would help, but I can't see it being anything like enough.
Someone else took the idea to his engine builder and they completely dissed the idea. I think they were right. Dave the Trike's experience suggests they were right, too.
fingers is right. The dowl is only for postioning. There was a artical in PPC about timing engines and they said about the dowl just being for positioning on the timing pulley.
Indeed -- if we're talking here of the woodruff key or the dowel in a dowel type vernier pulley -- many recent engines do without them altogether (that's why you use a cam locking tool on the FIAT/Alfa twin cams).
I do think the FIAT pulley might work with a centrifugal charger, though -- less parasitic losses, virtually no shock loads. But it's usually cheaper to go the turbo route.
I do think the FIAT pulley might work with a centrifugal charger, though -- less parasitic losses, virtually no shock loads. But it's usually cheaper to go the turbo route.
Cheaper than getting forged pistons, though. Mind you, for the price Kristian paid for new 16v pistons you could almost get forged ones made up.
would you even class it as a dowl? ive always called it a timing nipple
(you can grind it off then use the play in the bolt holes (or make them bigger) allowing you to add a few degrees ignition advance for those without programmable ecu
would you even class it as a dowl? ive always called it a timing nipple
(you can grind it off then use the play in the bolt holes (or make them bigger) allowing you to add a few degrees ignition advance for those without programmable ecu
You're talking about the one that sets the ignition timing -- the pip and hole. We're talking about the faux woodruff key that sets the cam timing.
oh good! i was shocked anyone even attempted to run anything from that. silly me.
I've done some thinking and a couple of things have cropped up meaning its going to have go on hold for a couple of months.
I have things listed for sale that would of been used but ill have to try again later on.
You will see a project out of me, just not yet.
Thanks
I have things listed for sale that would of been used but ill have to try again later on.
You will see a project out of me, just not yet
.Thanks
I was also recently told this is not true. The valve slots on the 16V piston do not match the 8V valves, to make the engine non-interference you need to machine the pistons a bit (bringing the compression ratio down even more). I was also convinced like you and also surprised to be told about this. This, the fact that I do not need so low compression ratio, and the fact that 16V pistons are difficult to get made me resign the 16V piston idea in my project, decompression plate instead.
